Hook n ladder 1

So I call my Mack dealer and my oil pan is unavailable. They can't get them anywhere. The price would have been $1900...OUCH I'll take a stainless steel one for $1600.

How much difficulty am i going to have getting the old bolts out? Should I put new bolts in it or do can I get a bolt kit for it? I had a nightmare last night of breaking the bolts off. Should I Lock-Tite the new bolts?

ok thanks

What kind of silicone and or contact cement? Like a Permatex type product?

My oil pan is rotting and starting to leak oil. It's a 98 Ch613 with an E7-427 (reman engine installed in 2008). Once I get the pan and gasket kit is there any tricks I should know about or is it unbolt old one clean the surfaces and install the new one? Thanks in advance.

Joe I completely agree with you. But what this involves here is time. My mechanic who is a welder by trade and can make anything out of anything is like every good mechanic. Busy. swammped with work etc. It takes time to get all that stuff together....to cut it, bend it weld it etc. and to get it exactly right. If my exhaust was off by less than a quarter inch, the shifter would hit it. If the entire system was flex pipe than yea we can do duals all day long. If I drove a Paccar rig I could order dual exhaust from Amazon and have it delivered to my door in 4 days. I'm going to buy a new truck in about 2 years. I'd like an Anthem but Volvo is going to close Mack completely (just my speculation). This exhaust thing just reenforces that thought. It just sucks because the dual exhaust looks cool and benefits the truck mechanically. But on the other hand there aren't a lot of Mack owners running dual exhaust, not in my area anyway. And the system always rotted at the weld on the "T" first.

I'll tell you my story and you can go from there. I have a 98 CH. Bought it as a day cab and has dual exhaust (turbo pipe to a flex pipe to a "T" off one leg (passenger side) a flex pipe, 90 degree elbow then the muffler. Off the other leg of the "T" is a flex pipe (past the shifter) then a solid pipe with the elbow then muffler. I've had the truck 13 years now. Replaced the whole system a few years ago. Chicago winters are not good to her. Two months ago the system is rotted out and now split at the "T". Can not find dual exhaust parts exactly what I need. I go to the dealer but I have a problem. Truck came from the factory with single exhaust and a sleeper. They can't help ( not yet anyway). Take my rotted system (its in my trunk now) to the local Fleetpride and lay it out on the floor in front of the parts counter. After 20 minutes the parts guy says "I dont know." They got $hit for Kenworth Petes Etc. My mechanic goes to a "Mack" dealer and talks to a Volvo guy. That guy tells him about $3,000 to put a system together. I said forget it. We'll convert it back to single. Again, my VIN won't match up for a day cab exhaust. So I call my regular Mack dealership and talk to my parts girl. She was able to make the conversion in piping for a day cab using my sleeper cab VIN. Parts were about $350. It was 1 flex pipe, 2 band clamps and 2 "U" clamps to hold the piping to the existing brackets, and the solid pipe with elbow. All 5 inch. My advice would be dont F&^% around with finding someone to bend pipes for you. Take your VIN back to the dealership and talk to another parts guy. Sorry the story got long

That's what i was afraid of. Turns out there was no way to grease the section of pin that froze up.

So after running my trailer through a few dump cycles and watching it from the side i was able to figure it out. The front left draft arm pin that lets the king pin plate on the trailer pivot during dumping had frozen up. It was actually prying up on the fifth wheel, as it would not sit flat on it. Usually after unhooking the tractor the plate on the trailer would pivot just by touching it. I tried to pivot it with my front end loader but to no avail. A big torch loosened it but not enough so its being replaced. Thanks for everyone's input.

Ive never had the gap before. I think whats happening is during a dump cycle the trailer is pulling up on the fifth wheel and pulling the king pin up. And the more i think about it the gap is more of about an inch and not 1/4 inch.

There's not really a category for fifth wheel questions so I picked suspension. Anyway I have a Holland FW35. It's about 12 years old. I run local semi-dump around Chicago with a quarter frame trailer. The problem im having all of a sudden is after i dump, there is a gap between the fifth wheel plate and the trailer. So I'll pull the locking bar and slide the trailer back and get it to sit flat. I don't have this problem loaded as I think the weight keeps it set. I haven't tried adjusting the jaws yet but when hooked up there's about 1/4 inch gap between the bushing on the adjusting rod and the plate. My holland manual says tighten counter clockwise until the bushing can rotate. But my bushing rotates already. Also, the jaws have been adjusted maybe once in 12 years but I never had the trailer not sit flat on the plate. So my questions are these 1) is adjusting the jaws the answer? I't doesnt seem like it to me but if it is do I adjust with the jaws locked or unlocked. Thanks.

You guys were right the dealer has floor metal. About 6 different pieces (main floor and sill pieces) around $1200 for all of it.

Thanks men. Stork I saw your F-model at Kamps yesterday. Nice truck!!

I need to replace the floor before I pull a Fred Flinstone. Does anyone make replacement floor pans for a CH? I found some for R and B model Macks but thats it. Or do I need to make something myself with a hunk of sheet metal?

I need 2 of those rods (with the rubber bushing)that attach from the exhaust stack bracket down to the opposite side frame.

I believe they're all the same cabs..at least the shell is anyway. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, aren't all the CH, GU, CV, GV, FBI, Vision, Granite etc all the same cab based on the original CH cab of 1988?

Thanks for the info.

But why would it start all of a sudden? Have you guys heard of this?

This is a do over from a past post. 98 ch613 with a E7-427 (remanufactered by Mack in 2008) has about 150,000 miles on the engine. Anyway, idles fine when cold, kinda rough when hot, real rough after getting off expressway. Runs and pulls like a mother%$##^%$^. No trouble codes. My local guy doesnt know whats wrong ( and hes real good) He said take it to the Mack dealer. Mack dealer cant figure it out but told me they see this all the time and run it as is. Just all of a sudden idles like sh*&^. Changed fuel filters a few times same issue. Had a bad injector and Eup. Changed them but no change in idle. She does seem like she's trying to smooth out.....sometimes it does and will idle fine for a minute or so but then back to roughness. Sometimes sounds like a misfire or only running on 4 or 5 cylinders but when i get moving she gets up and goes with no problems. Any ideas? Thanks!!

We had all manual transmission MRs years ago at Waste Management. all 5 speeds. A friend of mine drove a MR front loader in atlanta with a 10 speed manual.

Wm is still running a few new LEs out of their pershing/cicero yard.

I run semi dump in the south suburbs of Chicago. I'm slowly starting to see more Anthems going up and down I-80 and I-57. Not dozens a day but a few more every week. Lmackattack you're right. Everyone ran Macks by us back in the day. Most of them were R models....then CHs, then Visions and Granites, then they went to KW. Prarie Materials used to run all Macks and they still have some old RDs on the street. They're starting to buy KW now. I saw a new one at CIT Kenworth in Mokena yesterday. I don't know...are 8 airbags better than 4?

Thanks for the info.

So the truck starts fine and runs great but idles like a pig. Could this be caused by not putting in the cal code?

Correct me if I'm wrong. After installing a new eup,doesnt the shop have to reprogram the computer with a code or number from the newly installed eup?