Hook n ladder 1

Sounds good. Thank you.

Once I place an order for a new day cab how long until I take delivery?

I appreciate everyone's input. I wasn't entertaining an Allison only because there were a handful of guys around me that run semi-dump that went to the Allison and complained about the fuel mileage so they all went back to manuals. Doing clutch adjustments is a non issue for me since I do it so infrequently. I am familiar with Allisons however. Every 3rd day I drive a fire engine with an Allison. Of course I can't make a comparison with that and a commercial truck as far as MPG since it's geared differently and we do a $H%$ ton of idling. The display says we're averaging 2 miles per gallon (dont tell the tree huggers that

Few years from now I'm looking to buy a new truck and I'm torn between an AMT and a manual. I run semi-dump around Chicago (lots of stop and go and bumper to bumper traffic) and my E7-427 with 10 sp Eaton is fine. I average 1 clutch adjustment every 2-3 years. My question is do the AMT clutches require more frequent clutch adjustments or are they even adjustable?

I had a brake job done on the rear of my tractor 98 CH613 (new drums, shoes, hardware). The truck wobbles now between 25-55 mph driving and gets worse when braking and it doesnt stop smoothly its very jerky. I think I know the answer but not sure. I'm guessing the drums are out of balance but the funny thing is it looked like they tried to balance them at the manufacterer as a small part of all four drums had a section ground off about 4 inches by 2 inches. I got them from my Mack dealer and I never have a problem with their parts.

If I make an attempt to adjust the linkage what exactly am I doing? How do I do it?

Do I grease all 4 fittings or is the closet one good enough?

I also saw a youtube vid...the guy said the clutch brake will not work if the clutch is not greased. Is that true?

Ok. The funny thing though is after I adjusted the pressure plate last week now theres a low or deep sounding vibration at idle. Is that a coincidence or did my adjusting cause that?

Glenn should I "un adjust" the pressure plate back to where it was?

I put a new clutch brake in. Didn't work very well. Did adjust the clutch. Went from about a half inch free play to 2 inches. First adjustment in 2 years. The clutch brake still not working that well. Should I adjust the clutch more? I didn't think you wanted more than 2 inches of free play on the clutch pedal. Its an eaton/fuller 10 speed in a Ch613 Thanks.

Im still looking for an MR tandem axle tractor.....preferably a 1997 former USPS truck but any tandem axle tractor will do. If you see one for sale please email me direct cctrans1@yahoo.com Thanks

Im still looking. Saw a few for $20,000 It made me giggle. Tandem axle preferred. Not any older than a 96/97 model year. email me at cctrans1@yahoo.com if you know of one for sale

I think i know the answer to this one but I was thrown off a bit. On Friday my truck started fine. Drove it to the landfill and had to wait for them to open. Shut the truck off, listened to the radio for a half hour. I try to start the truck and it goes "click". no start but i have 12-13 volts. So the solenoid clicks every time i turn the key. I figured she should at least crank given the voltage. The landfill guys hook me up to their charger and she starts right up. So today (Sunday) I get in the truck and same thing just a click. I clean off the battery terminals and a few more clicks, but then she started. Batteries are 5 years old. They re coming out tomorrow. Shouldn't it start given the voltage? Do I have a solenoid problem too and not just a battery problem? Truck is 98 ch613 W/427. Thanks in advance

So I didnt have any broken wires in the cab. I decided to call my local Mack dealership. Bruce answers the phone. He knows everything Mack. He said usually the wires break near the plugs next to the lower portion of the radiator...where the wires wye off to each headlight. Thats exactly where the wire was broke. Thanks all you guys for your ideas.

I dont have any broken wires. Does the low beam wiring go through the dimmer switch?

Thanks i'll give it a try.

I changed the "tilt ray" relay now im back to high beams only. My schematics say there is a CB 2 (circuit breaker 2) but i cant find it. I was going to try to replace that. Any one else have any ideas ? Thanks in advance.

So today I now have low beams and no high beams (no flash to pass or no daytime running lights). I don't have anything marked dimmer relay but, I do have a relay marked "tilt ray" and that one seems to be clicking when I try to hit the high beams. Ill replace that one tomorrow.

Thanks I'll check it tomorrow

All of a sudden I don't have any low beams or daytime running lights. I have highbeams (turned on and flash to pass), and markers. I checked the fuse and bulbs. Both ok. Is there a relay or breaker somwhere? I did not check the switch yet. It's a 1998 CH. Thanks.

I have a 98 Ch with a reman E7-427 (installed in 2008). What type or brand of anti-freeze would you guys suggest? It does have the coolant conditioner filter on it. Thank you.

Im in a jam for time...it looks quick, how easy is it to change the cab air bag? looks like a top bolt and a bottom bolt with air fitting. Jack cab up and remove. If it's harder than that let me know. Thanks

I'm just south of Chicago. Every now and then I see one going up and down the Dan Ryan (I-94) in the city. But dont see any for sale in my area.

Looking for used MR post office or any MR tractor. Could be single or tandem axle. Thanks