Hook n ladder 1

But if I'm getting irregular bearing wear would an out of balance clutch/flywheel do that? I think a bad dampener would do that. Correct me on both because im not sure.

First of all, I appreciate all the input. These vibration issues are always a real pain in the arse. I had thought of the clutch/flywheel being out of balance. I think the original flywheel was used, ive never had to replace the clutch since i bought the truck used. Maybe something happened when they took the flywheel/clutch out to put on the new motor. I'll re check the ride height...ive had it be off slightly before. As far as the injectors..3 were bad, 3 were marginal. I had all 6 Delphi injectors replaced with Bosch. It is an EUP eng. I've had the #1 EUP replaced about 1.5 years ago. I do get an occasional #1 EUP trouble code. I use a Mack shop (not a Mack dealer). They had also suggested going to the dealer and have them re-flash the computer as this can "wake up" the engine abit. They don't suggest that this will solve the vibration problem though.

Im gonna drop the pain I just want to figure out where the hell this vibe is coming from. Im not ruling out the dampener being bad.

Could it be the dampener at 97,000 miles? If so would you recommend a brand? Maybe Vibratech?

The dampener was new when the engine was installed. I'm not sure how to check if its working unless im losing fan belts. Lead is the only metal showing high readings. All other metals show normal.

I have a vibration..maybe 2 of them. Its a remanufactured engine by Mack , E7-427 in a 1998 CH613. Reman engine installed in 2008. Has 97,000 miles on it now. The first vibe is at idle. Idles fine (not lopey) and engine runs good ( had 6 injectors that were bad last week). New injectors didnt change the vibe. It rattles everything to death. Motor mounts look good. Oil changed at 10,000 miles ( I do dump work, alot of off road.) I also run a bypass oil filter. Oil samples indicate high lead. Lab that tests my oil thinks the main bearings are wearing prematurely. Vibe #2 is when I'm loaded. It gets bad between 4th and 7th (10 sp Eaton) and between 1400-1800 RPM. past 1800 it goes away). If i'm easy on the throttle its not as bad but still there. Climbing a grade its pretty bad. I lost a carrier bearing 2 months ago...actually not the bearing but the bracket had cracked and came off. Ive had 2 different types of center bearing, a vented type and solid rubber. With a vented center bearing the vibe in the above mentioned gears is so bad the truck is almost undriveable. A solid rubber bearing makes it better but the vibe is still there. (New drive shafts, bearing and u-joints balanced and installed). I think the solid rubber masks the problem coming down the drivetrain. Another problem I had 2 years ago....the front motor mount fell off. Engine fell down on to crossbrace, just a few inches. Had it replaced. Not sure if this had any thing to do with whats happening. The vibe while driving actually started when the reman motor was installed. I need help and looking for ideas. Thanks .

In motion. It's worse loaded, mostly in 4th, 5th and 6th between 1500 and 1700 rpm. The bottom line is this started with the installation of a new engine. What ever is making it shake was masked by a solid rubber carrier bearing. Is the "new" flywheel and clutch out of balance? (They used the existing clutch).

All these things you guys have suggested have checked out. Even the new carrier bearing is at the correct angle. I've gone back into my records....so lets start over In 2008 a Mack dealer installed a reman motor (427) After install it start to vibrate ( same as now). They sent a guy out from corporate with a computer and sensors. Best he came up with was changing the then "vented style" to a solid rubber style carrier bearing. Basically took care of the vibration but not 100%. In 2013 the front motor mount fell off, broke my fan and shroud. Everything else seemed ok but the truck seemed to vibrate a bit harder when engine idled (kind of like the old L10 cummins). So now here we are 2014 got a new vented carrier bearing ( thats all they make) and back to the vibration. Am i not looking in the right place? did something else happen when motor mount came out and engine fell down onto cross member? Thanks Thanks

Paul i dont disagree with ya. Im going to run it by my mechanics and let them take a ride with me and theyll probably say the same thing. As far as a carrier bearing spacer.....the dealership parts guy there isnt one nor was my truck built with one.

So I got an alignment, the steer and rear drive were off alittle so that should take care of the tire issue. I havent tried shimming the carrier bearing yet. The truck has not run right since replacing the carrier bearing. But some other funny things are happening. I have a 10sp Eaton. It feels a bit strange going into 5th and 10th...more so 10th. It goes into gear but doesn't seem to go all the way in. It doesn't jump out but just doesnt seem right. Also, my first drive axle is leaking oil from the side of the case (where the gasket/bolts are). Is this all coincidence or is it related to the carrier bearing failure?

Men thanks for your input. Back to the carrier bearing for a minute. Back in 2008 I had a reman motor installed. It vibrated like hell ( just like now). The dealership could not find the problem. An engineer came out from Mack, installed sensors all over the truck. It mostly pointed to the carrier bearing. So they changed it from a vented bearing to a solid rubber one. That helped quite a bit. This time, nobody seemed to know what I was talking about as only 1 type of carrier bearing is available. The shop I use and the dealerships had no idea of the 2 types. Looks like I have a vented one again. Is anyone familiar with this or was a smoking medicinal marijuana in 2008? I replaced the bad tire and have an appt for an alignment check tomorrow.

Truck is 1998 CH613, E7-427/10sp Eaton, Eaton rear axles: The carrier bearing u-bolt let loose. I was able to pull over and stop before the drive shaft hit the street. It did get wedged up near the air dryer. New drive shafts, new carrier bearing, new u-joints from trans to first diff. The entire set up was put together and balanced before going on truck. They were put on truck with all u-joints "phased". So now I get a vibration on heavy acceleration, loaded, starting about 4th gear, and fades in about 6th gear (between about 1400-1800 rpm). Shakes the entire truck. Empty it's not as pronounced. If i'm loaded and real easy on the pedal, it too is not as pronounced. My mechanics not sure what it is. They thought air ride height was off but it's not. I was in need for new airbags. Four new airbags were installed. That didnt do anything for the vibration. Any ideas? Also, problem #2: I had the alignment checked earlier this year and it was in spec. However, my front left steer tire has worn down pretty quick....the outside of the tire is down to 2/32 while the outside is 7/32 ( with 36,000 miles on them) the other steer is 10/32 all the way across. I had the front end checked and everything is good. Any ideas on this? Maybe a re check on the alignment? I do mostly local semi-dump and some regional stepdeck stuff. Thanks

Looking for a used bull bar for my 98 CH613.. an Ali Arc or Herd would be great but any others are options too....email me at cctrans1@yahoo.com, i'm in Chicago. thanks

Will an axle back Granite hood fit on a CH axle back chassis? If so is it a direct bolt on?

ok so I replaced the air solenoid and it didn't correct the problem. Same exact problem as zman. Does somebody have any ideas? Is there a relay somewhere? Is it a ECM problem? Wiring a switch isn't the answer and neither is having the fan run all the time. On a lot of trucks with the air activated clutch...if it runs all the time the clutch overheats and the air line fitting will seize to the hub ( temporarily), spin around and tear the air line off. Men, your ideas/suggestions are always taken under advisement and never disregarded, so don't take my reply as such. Thanks for your help.

Im having the same problem with my 98 CH. The local shop I use said it's probably the air solenoid. Im going to change that first since it takes all of 2 minutes to do.

The title says it all. Thanks

Yep, thats the plan. Do everything at once.

So how much will a new or rebuilt air compressor set me back??

I service the air dryer twice a year. It works but cant keep up with the oil/moisture coming out of the compressor. I will not be changing the compressor myself. i have a shop that I will have do it.

My 98 CH613 (427)always had alot of moisture in the air system....well a few years of freeze ups and alcohol, alot of my relay valves have failed. Anyway, air compressor is 5 years old has about 80,000 miles on, will replacing it with a rebuilt one cut down on my moisture issue? How much is a rebuilt compressor going to cost me? Talking about moisture, theres antifreeze coming from the weep hole on the water pump. So I'll be changing that too. So how much $$ is a water pump going to set me back. Thanks

Where can i find the application relay valve and what does it look like? Thanks

No. When im bobtailling too.

I have a problem with my 98 CH613 with real jerky brakes. Very little foot pressure makes them grab and almost throw me through the windshield. Even when I'm inching up at a traffic light when I touch the pedal lightly they grab. I run a 23 foot dump and a 52 foot drop deck. It does it with both trailers but not as bad with the 52 footer on. I had the brake pedal valve tested (it was bad) and rebuilt. No change. I had also changed the springbrake control/relay valve near the rear drives. No change. All brake positions are in adjustment. Any ideas? Thanks

My 98 Ch 613 , E7 keeps showing a low oil pressure sensor code. The sensor was replaced about 2 months ago but the code shows up about twice a week. The oil pressure gauge has always showed good pressure. The funny thing is I used to get the orange malfunction light and the red engine shut down light but now im only getting the red engine shut down light. The orange one isnt burned out, it still comes on when the ignition is turned on (engine off). Anyway, the engine shutdown wouldn't be on long enough to shut down the motor. So I took it to the independent shop that I use, they specialize in Macks only, they had a few ideas......could be wiring, may be the ecm, probably not the new sensor. They gave me a loaner ECM to use. Haven't had the code yet but only put about 60 miles on the truck. They're leaning towards a bad ECM but, they want to make sure before I buy a new one. Good Mack guys with some history behind them. One started at Chicago Mack at 33rd and the Dan Ryan. You older Chicago guys will remember, right behind the old Comiskey Park scoreboard. So my questions are these: Has anyone had a similar problem? If the ECM is bad do I get one from the dealer (ouch) or try something like this www.ecmking.com? (Just found that today.) And what are talking from the dealer $1000? $1500? I cant call them it's Saturday night. Thanks for your help.