Hook n ladder 1

So just to have a few options.....if I needed to raise the front end to level off the truck, and the front springs do not need to be replaced, anybody add air bags to the front? I was looking at canadianloadshare.com. Anybody have these or a similar front axle airbag kit on their truck?

Both axles ae close to the 7 5/8 measurement. I run 22.5 all the way around. I will be getting the rear shaft balanced.

I did measure. it was about 7 5/8". I wouldn 't think thats my problem.

Thanks for the info. I'll check it tomorrow.

I did. they didnt seem to understand what I was getting at. I tried to tell him the rear bags are higher not because of air pressure but maybe because the front is sagging and "pulling up" on the rear. He said the air pressure is the same in all 4 bags with 1 levelling valve. I said "I understand that" Maybe i was clear as mud.

I did replace all 4 air bags last year. I'll check into where my levelling valve should be. But can anyone tell me if the frame rails are supposed to measure level from front back?

Im not sure how far off the bellows the rear is but I know its a good inch higher than it should be. This I mean an inch higher than the front drive. And like i said earlier the front is usually right on.

Thanks for the info. The truck is pitched down abit in the front (or i guess the A$$ is up..is pretty noticeable). The ride is aweful. The front drive has the levelling valve and that one is usually right on loaded and empty. Should the frame rails measure level front to back? Also i'm working on 2 other angles on my vibration problem. The rear driveshaft is missing the balancing weights. I dont know how much effect this will have on shaking the whole truck. 2nd: I think i have too much grease in the slip yoke( the front slip yoke). It looks like there isnt any movement in the yoke. My vibe occurs empty or loaded now between 25-30 mph.

My suspesnsion level is different between my drive tandems ( CH613). Its a single levelling valve but the rear axle is about an inch higher than it should be. The front measurement is right where it should be. Shouldn't both axles measure the same? I've been chasing vibration problems for years and trying to eliminate all the variables. The truck rides rough and I go through alot of shock absorbers. I get maybe 2 years out of them..I do run dump and do alot off road.

Thanks for the info, men. So my next question, is having 160 ft lbs torque more than what the trans is rated for a big deal?

Its a 1998. I bought it in 2007, put a reman 427 in it in 2008.

Some of you guys might remember a post of mine a few months back..chasing a vibration. ( arent we all chasing some type of vibration in our trucks?) Anyway, its come down to the trans/clutch. Theyre coming out this week. I bought the truck used in 2008 ( CH613 E7-427) Its had a few different transmissions before I bought it. Previous owner beat the hell out of it. I cant find the torque rating on the 427. im waiting on a spec sheet from a Mack dealer but in the meantime maybe someone knows off the top of their head. So the transmission thats in there now is a Eaton 10 speed, rated for 1400 ft lbs torque. I dont know if that rating is good or bad for the 427. Thanks

ok thanks

Wait a minute!! Without the axles locked is the rear driven and the front not? I thought it was the other way around..or not?

Thanks Gang!

Is it safe to drive my truck with the tail drive shaft removed? Its a Ch613 with eaton axles. Driving it to a shop..bobtail only. Its going in for trans/clutch work but the rear drive shaft is missing weights and needs to be rebalanced. Thanks.

I do change them regularly. Thanks

Do I need to use a heavy duty anti-freeze with additives or can I use any green automotive anti-freeze since i have a coolant additive/conditoner on my truck? Thanks.

Get yourself an unloader rebuild kit. Its about $15 and if the bolts come off easy, and you can clean off the old gasket, it whouldnt take more than about 5 minutes. Its on the top of the compressor.

Tha balancer was never hit. I did check it yesterday. i did not see any oil stains on it, but on the other hand I didnt take it off so I cant see the backside of it

There was a slight vibration when the reman was installed. It was really bad when the front mount broke. After that was replaced it settled back down a bit to where it was when installed. But it seems to have been getting progressively worse over the last few weeks. I wonder if the shock of the motor falling onto the cross member when the mount broke had damaged the balancer. there was a pretty good 'bang' when it failed.

I may have to do that. Thanks

Also, I've been told that it could take up to 100,000 miles to properly break in a diesel, and it may take that long before the oil washes out those metals. Does this sound right?

I did look at previous oil anaylisis and there was a few higher Iron readings but still in normal limits.

yes it could