mattb73lt

It’s the little things that make you 😃😃

So many things to get done, find and hook up. At times I feel like I’m going in circles at this phase. I haven’t had a vehicle this far apart since the late 80’s when I did a complete restoration to my ‘27 Model T. That was like a model car compared to this truck. Lots mounted and back together since the clutch issue and I’m still on track for the cab and radiator going on by the end of May. Air reservoir, hydraulic pump, steering box and some of the linkage, power steering pump, fan belts redone are just some of what got done. Starting to rough in the air lines for the brakes. Waiting on the driveshaft to return. My fabricator friend is making me some mounts for the hanger bearings and the list goes on.....

Well, it was a learning point for me. I’ve put many clutches in, but this was the first one that required them. Ft. Wayne said you can pull them when needed to get more life out the clutch as it wears.

As much as I wanted to put the cab on back when I put the engine in, I’m glad I didn’t because this would’ve been a much more difficult fix.

I was just thinking, have you tried contacting the ATHS regarding your paint scheme search for the Coca Cola colors? Maybe they have some archival photos in their records.

Wow, that is really looking great in primer!! It's coming along nicely. Your little helper is getting some good training.

All back together and it functions. Quite stiff with hand pressure, but it’s definitely not a Girlyman truck.

No idea. They had two thicknesses, .122 and .150. The gentleman I spoke to said it was the .122’s, but he checked to make sure anyway. I think you could get them out without dropping the transmission, but it would be quite the job and laced with expletives.

Damn, that was quick!! You gotta love a company that’s great to work with, open to your questions and responsive to your needs!! Talked to them Thursday and here it is Saturday morning. Way to go Ft. Wayne Clutch!!! What a difference .122” makes in the spacing of the clutch fingers. Lesson learned, there.

No worries, I did that. It’s .042” stainless safety wire. I think originally it just had soft wire looped through it. My preference, as my background is more aviation maintenance related.

Yeah, that would’ve been a huge pain to fix with the cab on.

Minor step backwards yesterday. I had to drop the transmission off the engine to get at the clutch because it wouldn't release. It can be tough putting things together you didn't take apart, because you don't know what is supposed to be there. My engine came from one source the flywheel from another, with a used clutch assembly, and a new clutch from Ft Wayne Clutch in Indiana. It all went together, but wouldn't function. After some questions and a call to Ft Wayne, discovered I was missing all the shims that go under the pressure plate to space it properly. Ft Wayne was VERY helpful, especially since I bought the clutch way back in 2005. So, that fix is enroute. Dropped the driveshaft off at Fleetpride for a few things and that should be back Mon or Tue. That should put the driveline in the completed column late next week or early the following. More steps forward than back, which is always good.

That looks really good and very clean. I love it!!

Yeah, the stories I hear from my friends are frightening. The CSP aren’t even giving an entrance exam anymore. Numbers are way down and retirements are unbelievable.

Doesn’t really get used much, now. It’s heyday was late 80’s-mid 90’s and used mostly for enforcement on passenger vehicles. Never really did much commercial enforcement with it.

Drove about 70+ rivets back into the hood halves at my friend's shop today. It may not pass an airworthiness inspection, but I haven't forgotten how to drive rivets from my schooling 40 years ago. Interesting coincidence, the plane I was flying when I found the truck was in the shop for it's annual inspection and was right next to where I was working.

That looks great. I think you’ll be fine grafting those fenders together into one. I still can’t believe you used the entire cab back I sent you!! It look really good.

That was neat! Cool video.

And your fuel gauge is moved down to that panel, too. The instrument panel is a lot thinner and longer. Just picking out some differences between the two.

Interesting what Mack did to the dash for two different models they made out of the original design.

I’m running gear oil in my oil bath filtered 237. That’s what was recommended when I swapped in the 237. Haven’t had any issues with it sucking oil with the heavier weight oil.

I think someone must of had them plated at some point. That really makes them standout for sure. I’ve seen people do that with other items, to dress things up. Mostly you see the brushed gold Mack used.

I just checked it, but can’t find a tag on it. It came with the engine. It appears to be a common Delco 42MT

The color always brings up discussion. There are at least four colors Cummins used, an early grey, "Cummins Old Gold", Cummins gold and the later beige. When I bought this engine it was rust and grease covered. As I was cleaning it I uncovered several areas with paint remaining. It had been rebuilt at least once in it's life and repainted. From what remained I found that Eastwood had a color, "Equipment Yellow" that was a really good match from what was on it, plus it was formulated as a two part epoxy, high temperature enamel of aircraft grade. When I've taken pictures of it the digital phone camera can tint it differently. From a bright yellow inside the shop to a darker yellow with a little orange tint outside. But, I think it is a pretty good match for the "Old Gold" color, plus it's very durable. which was the main reason for using it.

Going to run a 12V starter on the Cummins NH220. This has the L cab on it, so it’s completely different than a B-61 with the doghouse and firewall.