mattb73lt

I've been using Shell Rotella 15W40 in both my trucks and have switched my older cars (T's, V8, Caddy and M715) to it also.

That's the same valve body I have as your's and HarryS'. I'll have to look through my paperwork, but I made copies of the installation and plumbing routing from a maintenance manual I borrowed to install it. I'm going off memory, I recall it did say Garrison. As for the Ross unit, like Sheppard, that was a power steering box rather than an add-on assist unit. I've seen some that have a Ross Power Steering logo horn button on various make trucks. I know there's some casting numbers and IN/OUT markings on it, maybe a part or assembly number, but I don't recall seeing Garrison or an ID tag on the valve body. My pump was a Vickers unit I sent out for overhaul that had an integral reservoir bolted on top of the pump. I just went through my photo archives and I took copies of the plumbing from what looks like a Mack maintenance manual. I have a pic of the rebuilt and installed pump. The only picture I have of the valve body was from the donor truck, covered in grease and dirt. But, that picture also shows the steering arm limit stops that I grabbed and installed, too. I do have a picture of it hanging up after I painted it.

Could it be a Garrison assist system using a Ross piston? The control unit looks like the one I installed on my B73. I had both units rebuilt by a local hydraulic shop, made up the lines myself.

That looks fantastic!! WOW!!!

Getting back to the original question, will it fit? Yes and no. If it is the larger 72 series bell housing on both than yes as they are the same standard SAE size. BUT, there are two different bell housings and there is one for a single and one for a double disc clutch arrangement. A double disc arrangement was fairly common on the Quadraplex as it was the heaviest transmission offered. It also had a rear crossmember to support the weight of the transmission. An easy telltale between the two is the bolt arrangement around the bell housing, there's a 1" difference in thickness in the bolt bosses and length of the bolts. This also pushes the entire transmission back 1" to allow for this clutch. This leads to another issue in mounting the transmission to the frame mounts. You'll need offset mounts on the transmission to match up the mounts on the frame or you can re-drill the frame to move everything back. There could be another issue if the transmission in the B85 is the smaller 67 series, but that doesn't sound like what you have currently installed. My suggestion as you get into this, is dig into what you have and get all the archive info you can from the Museum that you can. Next, get all the info you can directly of both gear boxes you have. What's in the truck may not be what was installed at the factory. There's a stamped pad on the left side of the main box of the transmission, aft of the cast Mack emblem that has "Made with Tetrapoid Gears"(or something close). Clean that off and get all the numbers off it. Also, don't go just by the shift plate installed in the cab as to what is installed. The duplex would start with something like TRD-72 or TRD-720, the Quadraplex will be TRQ-72 or TRQ-720. That extra zero means it's an over gear(overdrive) transmission, 9 vs 10 speed. In the case of the Quadraplex, double overdrive, 18 vs 20 speed. There are other versions of both transmissions, like adding an X to the TRD, which makes it a TRDX deep reduction transmission or an L, which means it's a lightweight version with aluminum boxes. There's a lot of little things that without asking questions and educating yourself can cause a lot of headaches and wasted time trying to fit things together that won't go or mount up. Is this really difficult, no, it's actually pretty simple. Once you know what you have and what you're looking at. Picking the right components and making them work together is fairly straight forward. Asking questions here can be very helpful as many of us have been messing around with these trucks for a long time. Post some pictures of what you have and ask away. It'll save you a lot of time and aggravation.

Klixon C Series Thermal Circuit Breaker, available from 5 to 40 Amps. I found mine online after doing a search. Prices do vary a bit for them. I forget where I sourced them, but they're readily available.

Is that the air intake hose? Napa would be my first go to. I used a piece of aircraft SCAT tubing for my intake hose on my B73, as it was missing along with the whole engine. It's available in many different sizes and colors. Not too expensive, wire reinforced silicone impregnated fiberglass tubing. It has a lot of uses, fire resistant. Just google SCAT tubing and a lot of sources will come up.

Congratulations on the acquisition of your dream truck. Looks like some good bones to start a great project. Matt

I like the original look, but I always intend to drive my trucks. Sometimes very far from home. Reliability, safety and comfort are big considerations. Tires/rims(radials, 22.5/24.5 sizes), maxi brakes, air ride or spring ride seats, spin-on filters. I've built them to do what I need them to do and to go places and haul my other cars to events and tours. I try to make them nice, but as they're going to get used, they're not perfect. Upgrades to electrical systems like alternators and 12V starters are all geared for repairs on the road, just in case. Getting stranded away from home is a concern, so I try to update things that are common over the counter parts. I also carry some spares with me that might be hard to get, water pumps, small parts, things that might be hard to get on the road. I'm not big on a lot of chrome, but I do add some and try to keep them close to period looking.

As HarryS said, Houdaille lever shocks. Lever shocks were quite common starting in the late 1920's. Mack had the largest ones I've ever see. They are rebuildable but very expensive to have done. I think Apple Hydraulics is up to $450 each from a quote I got several years ago when I was doing my B73. I had several pairs I had collected off trucks I parted out. I picked the best two that didn't look liked they leaked and used them. They are adjustable for resistance. I worked the back and forth from the least resistance to the heaviest, then set them back to the original setting. As for fluid, I used some 600W rear end grease/oil for a Model T. It was the heaviest viscosity oil I could find, plus I had a fresh quart on the shelf for my T's. If there's no real issues (leaks) I'd just clean them up and reuse them. BTW, my B42 never had them on it, no shocks at all on the front axle. I always thought that was weird as it must have been an option on lighter trucks.

A few old D'Addario dumps. These had several lives after being sold off. I found several laying together in Rocky Hill in a yard on the edge of the Connecticut river in the late '90s early 2000's. They were being picked over for parts, no noses on them, lots of parts gone from the twin turbo V8's, but the HI-HO bodies were still on them.

I've done this several times and I believe 73-10 Ohms should be correct for the sender. A quick google search says that's the range for the Stewart-Warner fuel gauge sender to make the gauge work. The other range is 240-30 Ohms. The Stewart-Warner Technical sight says 73-10 for the 82342 gauge unit. Now you just need to get the right length sender for the tank. They all come with some adjustment to calibrate the sender to the tank.

Just to add a little more to this and several have mentioned it, but a Sheppard unit would be another option. Certainly a power steering box from another truck could be modified to fit and some have done that. From what I have seen, the Sheppard unit came in two sizes for B models, large and small. These were bolt in units that used a cut off and modified B model steering column with a u-joint at the bottom to mate to the box. The smaller one was for lighter trucks and the lager unit was for B61's and up. Old timers have called this "In the box Power Steering" compared to the add on units like Garrison and Air-O-Matic. This style to me is the best. Both units dramatically ease the efforts of steering and maneuvering loaded trucks in tight quarters. Someone may have one of these units available if you ask around. They are more rare and harder to locate nowadays. I lucked out and came across a large one when I bought 1/2 a B61SX 10 wheel dump to get the transmission for my first restoration and conversion to diesel of a B42. I didn't even know it was there until I disassemble the truck. Funny thing was, I didn't end up using the transmission, but all the little parts and mounts were invaluable to the swap. Once I got the correct pump and reservoir set up for it, it steered like a car. Loaded or empty, standing still on pavement it only takes one finger to move the wheel lock to lock. It really steers that easy. I added a Garrison unit to my B73 restoration and while it's a very good assist, it doesn't compare to the Sheppard box. Since L's are not that dissimilar to B's it wouldn't be difficult at all to add some sort of steering assist to your truck, like the Garrison unit HarryS offered up. Good luck and keep us informed of what path you take? It always adds to the general knowledge of the group.

Yes, I was speaking only of Connecticut. Laws/Statutes very from state to state. Research and arm yourself with as much knowledge and understanding of what you're there for. As frustrating as it can be, remain professional and polite. Sad to think that a customer possibly would have more knowledge than the person getting paid to work and administer registrations. But, registering a former commercial vehicle is still not that common and confusion can interfere with the transaction.

Honestly, CT DMV is a complete nightmare. The knowledge of the average worker is so low regarding the applicable statutes. Classic Vehicle plates are nothing new, yet the misconceptions of what you can and can't do with a vehicle registered under those plates is considerable. There is no longer a requirement from Connecticut to have a full vehicle inspection. In the past, you had to get a temporary registration (Paper plate) that was good for 30 days and physically bring the vehicle to a DMV office for a full inspection and VIN check. Currently all you need is a VIN verification, which can be done at most dealerships, and add that to your application. As I see it, there are no restrictions as to what you can do, carry or trailer with the vehicle so long as it's not for hire or compensation. I ran into issues two years ago while trying to register my B73 in CT, with a clerk telling me I needed a signed affidavit from the previous owner, who was now deceased, and that I couldn't carry anything in or on the truck. I asked her to show me in the Title 14 Statutes where it states that and made her also get her supervisor as she had no idea what she was talking about. After some discussion neither could produce any statute stating these restrictions. As for the temporary registration, technically you do need one to bring it somewhere for the VIN verification if you are driving it on public roads. To register a vehicle in CT you need the following: 1. Title or Bill of Sale in your name. CT does not require a title for a vehicle over 10 years old. There is NO affidavit requirement for the Bill of Sale. 2. VIN verification. 3. Proof of insurance. 4. Registration Application. The DMV site has fillable forms you can complete and print out. The Classic Vehicle plates exempt you from a CDL requirement, fuel tax stamp, Federal inspection. Obviously, having the vehicle in good roadworthy shape is still a requirement, as equipment and safety violations will still be enforced as with any vehicle. You don't need a commercial or apportioned registration to travel inter or intra state if you're going to go far and wide with your vehicle. I have traveled extensively around the northeast and to Virginia and Colorado and never had any issues. As for weigh and inspection stations, I usually pull in and get waved through or had some pleasant conversations about the truck. When I've passed them, I've never been chased down and pulled over. That's not to say you won't ever be stopped and questioned as there are officers out there that aren't aware of regulations or may question your intent. When you do go to DMV, have a few extra helpings of patience and arm yourself with as much knowledge as you can to get what you came there for.