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Build a plate to install under the egr valve ! How ever after several miles /KMs the egr code will come up due to lack of egr flow! On the older engines this didn't effect performance ! I am not sure on the later models if a derate will occur ! the one I did was an 03 - 04 the guy put 1.5 plus Kms on it with out issue!

Check the compressor inlet tube connections at the intake and compressor end!

Good to know thanx for posting your fix!

The fuel pumps on the a feable on these the shaft seal can give out and they can wear to the point they wont pump !

Sorry didn't read the whole post my bad ! no metal in the pan! So I have seen the pump drive fail on these its a fiber coupling ,is it possible for you to remove the top rear cover of the fuel pump 6 -1/4 inch bolts and see if the pump is turning! althou this has nothing to do with compression its somthing to check! But if it wouldn't fire on ether its likley a compression issue as you are saying! In my opinion your heading in the right direction checking the valve set and push rods! If you got bent rods the engine has likley seen an over speed event!

Bro (Take the advice) posted ! Not trying to be an ass here! But were trying to help! you need check the fuel pressure you need to have at min 60 psi prefer a little more how ever.........! Just sayin! Also remove the elbow at the primary fuel filter from the tank and check for debris in it I have seen rags fuel conditioner lid inserts and rocks stuck in this elbow! several times! just some more things to look for! This will likely show up on the fuel pressure check as low pressure when you stomp on the throttle the pressure will drop off if there is a restriction or a loose gear , where normally it would increase some!

Quick check of the pan plug should tell the tale on this if there are pieces on the plug there you likly have a cam failed or the engine has been over speed and bent some valves ! Just a place to start! also you can pull the valve covers and check to see if the push rods are straight!

also pull the drain plugs on the diffs and check em for pieces !

(Rephrase) There were several software updates that were released to TRY and correct all kinds of issues and several for low power!

I would still check fuel pressure as stated above! Also if its a mack 18 speed disconnect the torque limit switch on the shift cyl at the back of the trans! and see if this helps!

Highly doubt it!

I agree it sounds like the synchronizer this a weak point on the Auto a fairly common Failure specially I its left with the second speed programing in reverse ! This is a theory however ! But it Seems to knock the sycro cone loose from the hub due to its design it seems to happen more frequently on those with the two speed reverse program left enabled!

This Mp7 year was the only one that kept the spinner oil filter of old! Then 2008 they chucked that idea too made it totally pure bread Volvo trash Swedish Vallhunds instead of a bulldog on the hood! Joe I"m A 18 Sp fuller believer ! Even thou I have got a bit of work out of the Mack trans over the years durability wise fuller is as good as any Mack trans and as I have said before cheaper to repair !Mack has innovations that work nice like the multi speed reverse that is nice to the dump application thou! That Is not offered by fuller !the expense issue still remains!

If you measured where Joe said to measure there you WANT to See 24 or better for a 470 hp engine Just sayin! You can MAYBE get away with less on a lower HP engine but not highly recommended ! And 002 thou definitely wont cut it! .002 between liners is OK under the same head As long as the lowest is 24 or better! ALSO note ! Have you pulled the injectors? Were there any with carbon on the bottom of the bore where they seal ? We have ran across them where the injector COULD NOT be removed from the head even with a porta power they were so clogged with carbon! And there are instances where the compression can get by the injector sleeve ! Seen it happen. Just sayin

Not the same! but a similar instance , We once had a fellow that was doing head gaskets on an engine ! Went to to do the valve set on the engine and an it came up semi hard on cyl 3 after some investigation with a screw driver down the injector hole found he had left a rag on the piston ! Just a tad embarrassing ! At the time we had a very aggressive boss that tried to push people on time quoted job you know! PUSH PUSH PUSH! We also had a guy leave the little plastic cork in the turbo oil feed on a 3406 980 loader honest mistake as two different guys were doing the job ! But Shit happens ! took out two turbos before finding the plug! 🥵

what he said ! we've had air driers stick open! run it and feel for air At the drier ! Unloaders could also be stuck!

Bro in your case You may have injector/ injector cup issues ! yet another thing that can cause a fuel hard start issue a lot less evident on The earlier engines, but can happen! usually presents it self after working hard for several hours! you shut off to fuel up / have lunch! then have to prime it to start!

If you have an Mdrive the speed sensor trick will likley not work as the trany has a brain as well needs to see speed to shift! The manual trans you have control of this ! the vecu doesn't know the truck is moving so it won't de rate you! sensor is on the tail end of the trans in front of the first u joint yoke! Scr derate is more viscous than dpf derate Dangerous in my opinion ! How ever someone dreamed up the the rule ! guess we have to live with it! You have a perfectly driveable truck that has to crawl along a free way at 5 mph is a tad ridiculous! a more reasonable 45mph seem more in line!

You need to check your liner protrusion spec is 19 to 28 thou I beleive ! However my experience tells me that anything below 22 is too low and in my opinion Borderline! anything above 24 to 28 is good and your allowed 2 thou between cyls under the same head ! Very important on any E7 But specially on a 400 plus HP engine just saying ! I have reluctantly used them it a chip on the top and had decent luck How ever Its your call! Check the protrusion this is most important! Just sayin

Yup like pro says you really got to be carefull buying a used engine for this stuff! I suggest , stick to a same year same model search , All things are not created equal from year to year on these as the EPA changes the rules every two days it seems! so the manufactures are forced to tweak this that and the other thing to be compliant! Soft wear is constantly changing!

😍 Yup! New you would find it! Yup the stat thing is important for sure I watched this happen many times even stats would Shock the system enough to shake the upper rad hose when they opened! Wicked Surge!

You will be bending lines! the segment spacing is diffrent on Ambac! As much As I like Ambac my self ! Robert bosch is easier to find parts for if an issue occurs !

This idea works best on these by pulling the the stat housing right off fill the coolant to the top of the stat housing then run the engine you can then better identify front head or back head! Also I believe there was a TSB on this ! a thermostat housing change up of some sort Mackpro may remember! It was about some markings or dots on housings identifying a changeup for coolant push they did!

Guess its doable the fuel lines will have to be altered to use them! the injectors will likly work !

This trans is a cousin to the 18sp these have range shift issues from time to time usually range syncro pack worn however check the yoke bolt for tightness! if its loose can cause shifting issues!