Freightrain

Well, my initial intent was to replace it with something newer. But, I thought I might just see what I had and make a decision later. After tearing into it, it was just one bearing on the mainshaft that was the big problem. I have it completely apart and washing it up now. Fresh out of the truck. Lids off, back box off. Compound gears. Good shape. Grimey parts Getting mainshaft out. Sleeve was stuck. Clean parts. Mainshaft out. Someone plugged the 1st oil galley, hence bushing worn and bearing junk. Trashed, why it had 1/4" slop in shaft. Dressed the ID of sleeve so it slips over shaft easily now. Main box going for cleaning this week. I have basic bearing list. Everything seems available. Even the dreaded "double taper cone" in the back box. I found a couple new Timken on eBay for under $100? I heard that was the whole deal with rebuilding these old transmissions. All the rest are off the shelf. Will update as I go along in the next few weeks. I had no clue as I dug into this thing but I figured why not? It is already in bad shape, and if I can vastly improve it I might as well before going through the work of replacing it with an Eaton. There is still a lot of work to be done but I think it will work out in the end. I want to thank Matt and Kevin for their assistance in getting it to this point.

Most brake valves won't release until you have a specific air pressure. Mine is like 70#.

That phony air shifted three stick BS. Pfft. I have a REAL three stick truck. I have the triplex out of it currently for a rebuild. I need to post about it but I need a place to store the pictures. It won't let me download any more here. My Post Image acct is screwed up and won't let me use it anymore either.

Four holes on that cross member, mine had a plate with valve mounted to it. Only picture I have handy showing air lines. I was in the process of stripping the truck to stretch it and and the bunk. Long time ago.

Yup, that is where the air lines were hung. The original tractor protection valve was right at the back of the cab and the air lines were draped and hung on those clips.

Merry Christmas back to you. Sounds like you have quite the plans in action. Enjoy and be safe.

If it hasn't been pulled lately, I wouldn't move it until you know the linkage won't freeze up and leave the truck stuck where it's sitting! Not that those worked very well anyhow, but no sense in making matters worse.

Cool wing windows! Didn't know those did that?

Yup, always saw turn signal box on the upper left dash.

I remembering see that write up someplace? Maybe someone here posted years ago?

I followed the contour of the brace on the back of the cab. I then welded a piece of 16 ga for a flange to bolt the boot to. I mimiced the same outline on the bunk and cut the bigger boot down to fit and seamed it at the very bottom. Hasn't leaked yet.

I had them on Photobucket and when that site went rogue I deleted all my pictures. I have some on Photoimage and now Google says it has issues and won't let me open it due to security issues. This site has limitations on photos so I can't just dump a bunch on here.

I stretched mine and added a 42" bunk.

Surely no Driptroit! 😆 Once you get the cab tipped you can look at the front of the accy drive( below right of water pump) and it will be stamped 676???? Not sure what the proper designation for 300? I would pull the side cover off the injection pump and as you roll motor over watch for all 6 pumps are moving up/down. They may be stuck. They look like valve springs and easy to see if they are moving. Might take a few taps to get them unstuck. My 237 had a few hang up from sitting a long time.

He mentioned moving the wet line tank out of the way so he could hook to his trailer and not have the plate moved behind the rear axle. I doubt he would butcher it up but it's his so he can do what he wants. I always liked his red super. Matt's channel is good entertainment. Yup, live your life through theirs and not cost a dime.

Looks great. Thanks for sharing.

I did get the book and made a really quick read of it. Got through 3/4 of it by bed time the first day. I couldn't put it down, I wanted to know more and more. What a phenomenal job was done to complete this Dan. Thanks for the effort.

Yes, 40ft racecar trailer.

We have been talking for over a year about this project and coming up with ideas and parts. He was going to come to Ohio for something else and drop off and then that plan fell through. Now it is in my court. I am just looking at all avenues.

Yes, but I like my gears. It runs really well with my triplex and splitting the top gears. Right or wrong. Plus, in the event I happen to come up with more motor I have the options available with more gears. I'd rather skip gears then someday need them and not have them.

I have nothing. This is just in planning stages. Been for a couple years but want to get moving. The ol triplex isn't getting any newer. It done the job for the last 23 yrs I've driven it. Just want to improve it. I put the 237 in about 7 yrs ago. I've had a couple conversations with Kevin All but trying to not have to drive 8 hrs to get parts.

My dimension is about 2 3/4 ish". So the 6064 is longer(deeper). This will take some modifications to my linkage. Not impossible but will be needed because my pedal pivot comes through the rear spring hanger and lines up with existing cross bar. Moving that cross bar back a couple inches will need to be adapted. Something that I was concerned about. Since it moves that back, I suppose that makes room for a dual disc clutch.

Thanks. I have seen that. My question is the depth of the bell. That seems to be never mentioned. Does that change for just certain set ups?

No aggravation. "If" I knew I could rebuild my triplex that would be first in the list. Easy-peasey. Updating to something easier to drive and stronger is next on the list. There have been plenty of guys that have put Eaton's in B models. I just want to find the easiest bolt in. I have never dealt with big truck transmissions and bell housing before so this is a learning curve. I have to borrow or rent a space to do this so it can't turn into a cluster. I want a game plan that has a good chance of completion. I don't want to tear it apart and then go "oh chit what do I do?". I can weld, fab, and machine so there isn't anything that really scares me. I have touched everything on this truck except for the transmission. All done in a single stall garage. No room to pull a transmission though.