Freightrain

The red is the hot from the battery which connects to one side of the contacts inside. The yellow is the lead into the windings of the motor. The small wire is the coil to the solenoid which when powered pulls the contacts closed and connects the main power to the windings. Sounds like the contacts are burnt in the solenoid, which would make the starter not run. That is the flash you are seeing. Or, the motor is bad(shorted) and the flash is the high current when applying power to the bad motor. Removing the screws, there is a spring loaded plunger inside, so be careful that it doesn't pop apart and things fall out. Yes the block side bolt is a PITA to get out. Either a box wrench and just 1/16 turn at a time or swivel socket and get out enough to use a rachet. Besides it weighs a ton to hold onto. My B is a real bitch because it is a lower right side starter and it falls in your face if you don't get a hold of it. Reinstalling is another WTF moment.

So see if I get this. The turbo was on putting boost back into the oil drain tube, into the engine, this showing blowby. Bad turbo seal was all it was then, correct? Just a bit cheaper then head gaskets!

Seems this came around again this year? All is well now.

On my HD Softail, my inner thigh muscle get sore holding my legs inward after about an hour in the highway. Darn near need a rachet strap to go longer LOL! My B model with 237, 4.10 gears run 1800 rpm at 65 mph gets a solid 8mpg with trailer(30k total).

Sorry to see this Dave. Hope it goes to a good home.

Looks pretty solid. I agree, in today's world $8k isn't bad. My guess, she inherited it in some way and wants it gone.

Gave it away!!!! Someone came away laughing and it wasn't the seller!

There was a fellow a few years back that bought a bus and used the whole driveline for his B. Front/rear axles (hydro boost), motor/trans. He did have to narrow the front axle to fit . B's are pretty narrow. All mechanical, no computer if you can find an old enough bus. I'll try to find his build, there were tons of pictures.

Likely to keep spammers from doing mass posting all over the forum. You have to have like 10 posts to add pictures?

Skid steers are around 7k lbs depending on version. Moving my friends on his big tag trailer it pulled heavy, similar to my race trailer(14k lbs). To get around some of the legal logistics, maybe a juice brake S series International chassis with a B cab put on? That could get you under CDL issues and still pull okay. Ex Uhaul chassis might be a cheap buy? Might want to get a mechanical Dt466 or 12v Cummins to get away from electronics on the engine. I know someone with a S series pulling a race trailer. It's governed to like 52 mph. Dealership can't do anything for him. It was a local Chemlawn truck, so never meant to go fast. Most any B will be gear bound without changing the rear axle. Most built to go 45-55 mph. Mine originally would go 65 mph flat out, but many don't. Most 2 spd rears aren't really fast either from my experience. Marginal at best. Finicky also with inexperienced operator.

So a recording of a dog barking that goes off intermittently should take care of that? Gas is cheap now but Opec says they will cut production to raise prices(go figure). When Karen and I go out to eat it used to be $25+ tip. Now it's $40+ tip. Same basic food we get at our few usual hangouts. We don't drink, so that really keeps the price down. Alcohol will double your bill in a swift second.

Id say 330" overall just guesstimating. Wheelbase plus one tire diameter, plus half the distance between duals, plus frame behind rear tire. 242+ 44+5+3=294+ what sticks in front of front axle. 30?". So maybe 324"?

I cleaned/polished my check valves in my full flow, it built pressure quickly a few times then back to 20-30 seconds. That is why I changed mine to spin on.

Here's Jeff and his Federal with enertia starter.

Why have them separated? Don't want a crossover line? I'm not sure I'd want fuel just sitting around unused. If you draw off both it will keep the fuel fresher. My .02. Here is my pyro/boost gauge

There are a couple variations to that block plate and likely gaskets to match. I swapped my original 673 NA to spin on and had to get correct mount for "non turbo" motor. A turbo version should be easier to find. I used my motor manual book and reference what my block looked like once I removed the full flow plate like you have. My 673 did not have oil cooler and that is another option.

The hell I went through getting block heater out of my 673 when I put spin on filters. Geez what a mess that was. Glad I got the new plug installed and didn't leak! Heater won't fit behind spin on filter housing.

I won't use the mobile version if on my phone. I know it limits things and usually makes it harder. All else, I wait to get on computer at home/work.

I was waiting to see it go up like a volcano! Lucky all around. More and more people have less responsibility and will just flee to not get charged. Or they have charges already and don't want to go to jail(again). In Cleveland, it's been young teens stealing those Kias and such. Cheap thrills I guess?

Welcome. Seems I've seen that truck before in pictures.

Few years back I was having power issues. First it was the throttle lever had slipped on the shaft. Fixed that but still was a bit sluggish. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and hung it on the air cleaner so I could see it out the window and noticed it was low. Installed a new lift pump and it was like new again. The bad thing is, the pressure pulsates and you need a liquid filled gauge to steady it enough to read it. I know they put them in the dash, but it would need to be electric or have an isolator as to not leak fuel if something went wrong. I ran my external gauge for a few years and finally took it off.

That's why I put it where the ashtray used to be. Wouldn't fit anyplace else. I've seen old trucks with a pyro mounted to a piece of alum drilled to the dash. Cobbled up, but typical for an old truck. I found it on Isspro website but can't recall where I actually ordered from. Yes, it was very pricey, but gave me both gauges. I know you want be purchasing it but will try to remember to get a picture of the install just for shitz and gigglez.

Here is what gauge looks like

I eliminated my ash tray and installed an Isspro pyro/boost gauge. Made a nice alum panel to mount it in the dash and cover up the edges of the ash tray hole. Have to get a pic for you.