Freightrain

Kinda my take on it. I find myself trying to drive to fast sometimes and having to downshift and brake at the same time. Bad idea really. Need to slow it down sooner, the Mack isn't my hotrod with synchronized transmission where you can just put it ina gear. You do have to teach yourself to drive a bit further "down the road" and not so "last minute" like in a car. I have a friend that road raced and was quite a heel/toe driver. That is pretty much a race track thing, not a truck driving thing.

Oil pressure should be in top of filter housing. Oil temp? Maybe in the pan would be my guess. Pressure should be mechanical with a copper line. Not sure about temp? Water temp is mechanical, so maybe oil is also?

If you here it "clunk", then maybe the contacts are crusty? You can take the S/P switch apart and clean the contacts(two big washers). I used to dismantle mine in a regular occasion back when I still have one. I removed it the next summer and went 12v starter and alt.

What batteries are you running? Four 6s or a couple 12v? Are they good? Are the cables and ends good? Is the starter good?

Id say RS685LST. The first letter just kinda didn't get stamped fully. Aren't the tags on the passenger door?

Hey!! I'm offended by that remark!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Raneys has some retro steering wheels available. I've been contemplating getting one for my B. Likely better then trying to restore my old wheel. Once the steel core starts to rust, it will distort again and crack. White version: https://www.raneystruckparts.com/20-ivory-retro-bone-3-spoke-steering-wheel/

I always thought single headlights was a fleet thing. Cheaper on the order form and easier to keep just one headlight to fix any truck. Not a high or low beam. By then single rounds were out of style so that is why the went to square across the board??

If you ever try to flip a pitman arm around and install it upside down, it won't go on much, if at all. The taper makes it impossible.

I will try to get under mine again and get a better look at arm on clutch pedal side. I know there is a lot of monkey motion for these for what seems to be a simple thing.

I don't really know what all is involved with it. Will find out soon enough.

I can get better light so I can get a better picture. Soon as I put my arm up with my phone, it blocked the light and you can't see anything. I tried to just get a quick picture but there is no room to get in there AND see what it is.

I've seen him at Gerharts also. Parked my rig next to his bus.

Working on it. Haven't finalized it.

Most steering box splines have a slight taper to make the pitman arm fit tight. It can't have any slop in the spline and like a tie rod end a taper makes it tight.

Well, I got under there, sorta. It was my arm, a light, or the tape measure.....but not all three....LOL. I got about 3 1/2" from center of roller to center of throw out shaft.

Ya, it's a tapered fit that hasn't been apart in 60+ yrs. No doubt she's snug.....

Bumper or is it the grille shell sagging?

Just have to roll under on a creeper. No big deal.

Sorry, I forgot to look this weekend. Bought the time I was heading to bed last night did I realize I forgot something! I will get home tonight and get some pictures.

I used a slacker adjuster puller to get my pitman arm off when I installed the air steering. I bought a few others that didn't have the beef to do it. The right puller and a smack with a BFH and it fell off. These steering box resemble one from Cub cadet. Rebuilt one before,this just a bit larger! My air steering is a bit flighty sometimes on curvy roads. Like mentioned it is similar design. Beats Armstrong steering! I have a spare steering box for my truck come the day it might need help.

Ya, it will just show continuity with that meter. If the big wires aren't smoking, then likely not dead shorted. Either bad brushes, commutator or bad solenoid. Start with the easy stuff first. If daring enough, use a big fat insulated screwdriver and jump the two big terminals. If the starter spins, then you know it's the solenoid. If it just arcs, then bad motor. Do at your own risk! Just saying. Doing this on a car starter is not a big deal, but a truck starter is a bit more juice.

You are getting continuity from the left post to ground because that is the power lead to the windings and they go to ground. If you had the proper meter it would give a specific resistance reading for the windings. I've never personally had that solenoid apart so I can't confirm or deny what you will get once you pop it apart. I know the basics of what it should have to function.

I'm working with Kevin All to get some newer pieces for the B. Tip turbine parts to be able to increase power a touch AND a 16713 transmission to relieve the old triplex from active duty. Was going to just get another triplex and get it rebuilt but it still is limited powerwise. He has a 16713 which will not have issues with my power level. I likely will end up removing the little Spicer 6241 also. It is starting to leak and it also is power limited. The 16713 is double OD so I will still have pretty long legs. Top gear should get me 1500 rpm @ 65 mph. That is basically what the Spicer does for me if I use that OD. But 1500 rpm makes both of the boxes grunt under any kind of load. I don't like hearing those kinds of noises from 50 yr old transmissions that aren't rated for this much torque. It's all in the slow works. Not sure if it will come together before racing season starts and don't have the time to tear into it.

I can look at mine this weekend. Hopefully in the near future I will be upgrading mine to a 16713. The old triplex is just whipped.