Freightrain

Ya, I tell everyone that riding a motorcycle is NOT relaxing. You have to THINK for everyone on the road because THEY don't. It's getting worse every day. I still ride, but not like I used to. Had thoughts of just selling it but haven't got that desperate yet. I don't tell the g/f how many times I've had to save my own life due to stupidity on the road.

Nice. Is that rubber block suspension? Yowza...

Ya, 4.59? here. Jeez, $200 didn't get me much! Glad I don't have many trips left this year.

There is likely just an o-ring on the shaft and a paper gasket on the back. Not much to them. Used to mess with mine til I got it fixed up good years ago. Yours is slightly different then mine. Mine has 4 air lines. I tried to order a new valve once from Watts and it was not the same, thus fixed mine.

I played heck setting my jakes up with no marks on balancer. Used flywheel mark and the just eyed the rest up using sharpie marks on balancer after using a protractor to get the degrees close. Musta done it okay, she still runs good and jakes work well. I rocked engine back and forth like doing my race motor valves. Just a bit more clumsy crawling over the fender to check valves and then crawling under truck to turn crank. Ugh.

Yup. Mine used to make milkshakes every trip out. Got it rebuilt about 17 yrs ago. Been good ever since.

I had mine apart when I bought it, had to install a new bushing in the nose cone. Was curious about gaskets for the motor. Friend told me he just cuts pop can cardboard cases into gaskets. So, that's what I did and works just fine. Mine is an Ingersoll Rand...looks just like a 1" impact gun body with a gear reduction on the end.

The early systems had a hand valve mounted in the cab(under the seat, with a handle sticking out) but they tend to leak pretty bad over time and will not hold pressure for long. I wanted to use that valve in my B, but friend told me to NOT do it due to leakage. Even though it would be period correct, I wanted reliability. Now the dash valve is just a remote actuator for the main air valve mounted on the tank itself. The tank valve cones in either electric or air actuation. The tank mounted valves, in good shape, will hold for an extended amount of time.

I swapped my B over to air start. I rebuilt the air actuated valve and it will hold 90# for 7 months without issue. So setting the system up correctly is EVERYTHING. I can't recall where I got the new diaphragms, but likely just googled the valve number. It was a simple job. It's been working flawless for 6 yrs now. Do not use remote mounted valves, that allows chances of leaks. Mine is tank mounted. It is also air actuated(not electric). I ran lines to the dash and put a button on the dash. I would have like electric just so I could reuse my existing starter button. But now it will start with NO batteries at all. The only upgrade was the installation of an oiler to keep the air motor lubed. Simple job, just taps into the fuel return line from injection pump. Puts a squirt of fuel into the starter every time you use it. I have the large air tank, it came from an R model. It will crank for 6-9 seconds before dying off. It never takes more then ONE second to get engine running. Literally can't release the button fast enough, as it starts that fast.

My stick is over to the right but I made the shifter to bring it back over to the middle and have room to get into the bunk. And not get twisted with the other two sticks.

Like a twin I beam on a Ford pickup. My axle was like 9-10, with the seal. I have a few pics somewhere in my home computer showing the parts before installing them. There is something odd about those bushings. Almost like they need HONED, not reamed. I seem to recall taking my spindles to my friends shop and using his pin home. It's been a few decades so it's CRS. Maybe I just cleaned the spindles so the bushing fit easier? Too long ago. I do know if you let the thrust bearing get too loose, the wheels will get a shake while driving. Not until I jacked it up and realized they had worn in after 10 yrs, I resnugged them and it smoothed drastically.

My FA 517 was tapered pin. I had it apart faster then it took to jack the truck up. I was amazed. I've done my twin I beam trucks that took days to get the pins out!! Being tapered it took one smack with a 5# hammer and they dropped out. One bushing was roller, can't recall if I had to resize the other end? It was 21 yrs ago. That was my first big job on the truck after I bought it.

I think I have a pump in my pile of parts but nothing to fit it to. I was always curious how they mounted.

I used those to install my visor. Better then just lag bolts!

The NA 673 were 170 or 185 for the split intake version. The turbo was 205 hp.

I had a new main leaf made for the drivers side of my B. It was deformed and all the clamp bolts were snapped. They bent the eyelet in house and it worked great. I had to do a touch of grinding on the width of the eyelet because as they rolled it, it flattened out a touch and would not fit in the pocket. Just by a hair. No biggie. I've always wanted to remove a few leaves to soften the ride some. I don't need 12k weight rating!

Nice ones back in the 90s were out of my price range. Took me a few years to get this one to a decent point. Even today it needs a TON of stuff to actually complete it. Not happening.

I swapped mine out years back, but I was lucky to find an R model with a 711 set up for a motor with NO oil cooler. Bolted right on. Hens teeth today. I had messed with my full flow so many times trying to get the check valve to hold oil in the case so it wouldn't take 30 seconds to get oil pressure. It would be okay for maybe 1-2 starts, then back to 30 seconds. Never seemed to hurt anything, but just didn't like it, like I'm sure you don't.

That's what $1000 got me back in 1996. A few dollars more...... I've had visions of replacing my 1997 Haulmark 40ft'r with something with actual living quarters/bathroom. I stopped at local trailer dealer a couple years ago and got a quote. Now, my empty box was $11k back when. I put all the stuff in it. The new 44ft box was $18k, plus $8K for a bathroom, etc and total was about $42k with options I wanted put on. Today, they aren't making them in Elkhart, IN anymore. Too many supply issues. WTH? There are new builders in Georgia, but not sure of the quality. My Haulmark was a "higher" end build and has served me well for all these years but it is getting kind wore out. So, right now I'm now searching for a drop deck moving van of sorts that I could convert myself. Finding one with minimal doors on it is tough, but they are out there. 40-42ft with axles moved forward to enable me to get around my neighborhood and in my driveway is mandatory. A 48ft with axles in the back won't do it. Time will tell.

I never trusted anyone to fix my stuff, but I am slowly falling away as I get older. My 95 f150 needed a rear fuel tank. I kinda got it loose but my back was all jacked up and I gave up because I couldn't move around on the ground easy enough to get it out and new one in.. Local shop did it for me. It was easy on a lift and everything was broke loose by me. Though they didn't check the sending unit very well(new pump also) and the fuel gauge is off by 1/4 tank. When I did the front tank previously I checked to make sure the arm was bent correctly so it reads right. That's the difference in doing it and doing it right.

Couple winters ago, was out to lunch and went to leave Subway to go back to work and...."click". Nothing, nadda, kaput. There was lots of snow in the street, I wasn't climbing under there to rap it with anything. I called a tow truck and had it taken the 3 blocks back to work where we had a shop across the road that does all my basic truck work. I was in no mood to do it myself, even in our warm shop(I didn't have any "work" clothes to wear). I wasn't laying in all the slush either from the truck dripping on me. I'm beyond that kind of work anymore. I paid the few hundred bucks to have it all done for me. I count my blessing when I'm not in Timbuktoo and no help to be found.

Like Mark says, the idiots in charge don't care about our laws AND history. They want to destroy it all and make us all "woke".....smdh.

The song that all the woke wackos are screaming about right now. CMT banned from playing the video, etc. "Try that in a small town" by Jason Aldean.

Wonder why they don't have Jason Aldean singing at the parade.....LMAO 🤣🤣🤣

Dang gone! You don't have much luck with glass!!! Are the fuzzy and felts missing from the tracks? No reason the door glass should have broke. Yes, the lock channel is a PITA to install. I tried using the typical tool and broke it! Had glass shop do it for me. Best $20 spent!! The air compressor will pass oil as the rings wear. Mine would make a milkshake in the tank every trip out. Spent the money on rebuilding it and been dry for 20 yrs. It will sludge everything. I pulled my air wipers, dismantled the motor, clean it and the valving on the end, new lines and it will throw the wipers off it runs so fast. Many don't want to deal with them, but some simple maintenance and they work well. The shutter control is another simple repair item. Mine would leak air bad. Just a simple rubber cup inside, mine was hard as a rock. Found something at MacMaster Carr and it works perfect now.