Freightrain

Yes, I didn't want to crack it! I was very careful with the heat.

Well, one step forward, one step back. The nuts on the turbo studs were marginal so I bought new locking nuts. As I was just snugging the last one.....zip.....stud came loose. 🤦 So off comes the turbo and I used heat to remove the other three studs to see there was barely any rust holding them into the manifold either. 🤦 Glad I hadn't folded the lock tabs on the exhaust manifold studs😲 Guess I will be installing helicoils in all four as the rest were not much to look at also once I unscrewed them. Ya, M10x1.5 threads. Why? Just because the stud threads for the nuts were m10x1.25. Ya, that is about the most odd thread ever. Just you can't get them at the local Ace hardware. Lucky for me I have two major bolt houses and it was something they carry. So, no more running until I get this to work and use the mill so they are nice and straight so the studs fit the turbo. Well, at least it wasn't in the truck? The last stud is being a real pisser. Letting cool and try later. I don't want to crack the manifold! I did loosen it off the motor so it could move around easier.

I used to constantly tear my SPS apart and clean the contacts. Got fed up and switched to 12v neg ground.

Go back and edit and erase the extra link codes, that should help with the pictures. The codes are piggybacked . Go to the "jpg" and erase after it in each line. I agree with Vlad. Get some 3/16" steel cable and some hooks and some turn buckles. Go diagonal along the sides and across the ends. That should stiffen it. That is how real steel buildings are erected. Our shop has them except they are like 3/4" rods. Big. And on windy days they clank as the building moves.

28QC429 is the whole assembly for a 1984 R686ST. I need the lower yoke for the steering box and the other half of that joint: The u-joint is still available: 2104-5103X.

That was my exhaust when I started the 237 10 yrs ago. 😆

The white one? I've seen stories of it.

Once I primed it, it starts instantly. It took a few tries and pumping primer to get it to that point.

A friend usually handles the trucks for ATHS at Mats. I haven't spoken to him about any of it. I know it has been a sticky situation lately with what Mats wants for trucks.

Which post? I know Trent was looking for return check valve.

I have time, so thought I would put some run time on it to make sure everything is okay before putting it in the truck. I'm a drag racer so I know about no break in time. Start it, has oil pressure, run it HARD!

Still a long road to hoe.....

I couldn't take it....I had to light it off tonight. Primed it up with fuel and it took right off. Now to get radiator hooked up so it can run with water.

Ya, best guess. I put plenty in it during assembly. The injectors are dry so no chance of it lighting off yet. Should be ready this weekend.

Ok, for you all that aren't on FB, I downloaded it to my YouTube channel. https://youtu.be/GYsx_LYyLvg?si=0g62DRMPVQSb4vIh

You have to be on FB to see it.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1CDDxy8Zy1/ Not sure who is on FB but here is link.

Well, I posted a video on FB last night of it building oil pressure. I am getting closer to making noise. Need to paint second valve cover and get them bolted down. Intake tube from turbo needs painted. Make up fuel line and get some diesel out of the truck. I want to get my other radiator out of the basement again and hooked up so I can run it for a longer time like last summer.

I was at Buddy's house that is helping with my motor. He has 5 new rods for an E7. They are huge compared to an E6. I asked him what was different between motors. They are basically the same overall, but the front mount area is upgraded. He is contemplating building an E7 for his pulling truck and not tell anyone that it isn't a 237. 😆

Correct, you have 4-5 detent circled in red. That is the front of the box.

Thinking more about detents and interlocks. That sounds more a viable issue since it works fine without engine running. No vibration or gears turning and pulling on the shift forks. I would have to really think back to what all is going on with the shift rails when in a gear. This is only picture I have handy of lid. Not sure if I have anything better. I may have something on my home computer that I backed everything up on. It may give some insight on what happens when it is put in a gear and what may be holding it.

Unfortunately that is just AI crap. I was watching a short video this morning from a creator I enjoy(electronic stuff and has built CNC controls for his garage machines). His comment about YouTube was it is going downhill and "new creators"(just worthless copy cats) are stealing information and having AI just make the videos and trying to get paid for it like the real creators that actually researched and produced a video. He hopes that it burns out quickly and creators start back up again since many are just quitting. Ive noticed a real change in what comes across my feed. Mostly crap like you posted and I refuse to add to their "count" and pay day. Too much of it is not accurate and pretty worthless.

I get that reasoning. Anything is possible. That is why I asked if it hangs up with engine not running. When I pulled my 673 nine yrs ago, the pilot bearing was junk. Nothing left of lubrication and it was sloppy. Wasn't noisy that I could hear but junk just the same.

I would suspect in issue in 5th more then first with a pilot bearing. If it was a detent, it should act up sitting still. Can you shift it without engine running(once gears are lined up). If it hangs up then, I would think detent.

Sounds like clutch is not disengaged enough and torque load is holding it. Been there if I recall, especially if loaded on a uphill pull in first. Have to really finesse it slowly. I don't ever need 1st very often at all, it starts in 2nd without issue. I'm only 30k lbs loaded. Have you tried without the clutch and see if it allows the shift? Likely find the same situation. The shafts are spinning pretty fast and it won't slow down enough to releases the sliding clutch which is pretty heavy since it has reverse gear on it. That is a lot of mass and wants to keep pushing on first gear and won't let you pull it out. Unlike the rest which are just a small hub.