Freightrain

Just look for the note "made in USA with global parts". Ugh.

Started with $50/ month back then. Now it is $500/ month. Growing quite well now. 30 yrs making 10%/year has worked out.

It was 25 yrs ago but local shop recored my heater core with no fuss. I was surprised they could get it "off the shelf".

Friend retired about 15 yrs ago from Food workers union. He had to get out before all the youngins gave away all their bennies. They want cash today!! Not for tomorrow. All this instant gratification crap. I don't have any real retirement so I have been putting money away myself for 30 yrs. Won't be rich, but will have significantly more then SS to survive on.

Like Uncle Ben, it was racist to have a black person on a a label. Stupid, just stupid what these morons today can force down people's throats.

Depending on distance, a quick fix may be good. Just get it good and warm to confirm patchwork.

Just got to reading this. My 300+ is an ESI, so I can post a picture of my mounting pad to compare to your 673T. I know there are some subtle differences in these mounts and oil holes. My old 673 I put spin ons but it was non turbo so I had to find spin on filters without the oil hole(from 711 motor) and no oil cooler.

Ok, that bottom picture is a top that could be used with a Triplex. The two horizontal holes in the front corner are for the shifter mount. Remember, a duplex has the compound on the RIGHT side of the main. Tri and Quad are on left side. A duplex would not need those two holes. So maybe the "early" lid was not universal fit. Yes, your brake handle would need shimmed up about an 1/8" to clear the two lumps for the cross bolts. I am not sure where they mount a brake on a trip/quad?

I'm just shy of 30k lbs. Not heavy but not light. I'd rather have more OD then I need then not enough. I can always run in 11th or 11th gear. Less heat and less power loss.

Currently 1800 @ 65 mph. But would like it quieter. The truck had 4.62 with the 673 and 2100 was 65mph. Ya, flat on the floor all the time.

Currently 4.10. If I hadn't found the double over I was on the hunt for a 3.50 rear. The old Rockwell is thin pickings these days. Found a few but too pricey plus shipping from far away. Rear had 3.70 when I bought it but the old 673 didn't have the power to pull it so I swapped up to 4.10. Wished I had kept the 3.70 or bought a 4.10 instead of trading it off. Oh well.

I will need to do some fancy footwork to convert to pull clutch. Either linkage or add a cable to the end of my existing pivot and loop around and attach to arm. Have arm hanging down and pull backwards. Either way is doable. Local friend has a B with an 8LL and said I can come up and see what he did.

I like the even splits all the way up. It seemed like a good choice.

It's double. .86 and .73(something like that). Per Eaton website.

No doubt. It likes the Triplex splits but it is going to take some fab work to make it all fit and not sure I am ready for all that.....yet. I do have to finish my racing season. Have to work on mounting arrangements, may have to change clutch housing? Push clutch instead of pull. Now that I have something to touch and see I can start with working on a plan. Hard to do that with just pictures on a computer. I had him put a forward X cover on it instead of a rear. It will just be in front of my cross member on the floor that I put in when I rebuilt the floor. It gives me something to bolt seats into and stiffened everything. A rear cover put it just behind the cross member(pc of 1" sq tube).

Was surfing Marketplace Saturday and came across an ad that caught my eye. RTLO 18913a $3500 Out of power unit that only used one gear. Low hours. Was super clean inside, sliding clutches all looked untouched. He has three, I bought one for my truck for when the 300+ gets installed. Overkill?? Absolutely. But won't have to ever worry about hurting it. And I am good with that. Double OD so it gives me longer legs.

Look great! 👍

Similar issue with my B. Drivers door has always been a PITA. Most times you have to bang it with your shoulder to get it open from inside. One in a while it just clicks open without issue. I have ground on the two latch paws with some luck. It is different from your R but still a bitch. The passenger door works flawlessly like a new Cadillac. Just click with two fingers every time. I've jacked the door frame with a bottle jack to widen it and it seems to help for awhile. I've polished the two ramps in the door frame portion with some luck also. Never lasts long. Even with my new door shells it doesn't fit well. Aggravating.

If I recall mine was 15+ lb when I put a gauge on my 237 when it was acting up. Found out my throttle arm had slipped and wasn't giving me that last bit of WOT. Wouldn't climb a hill to save it's ass.

Very cool piece of history.

I remember my first rebuild in early 80s. 302 in my 70f100. Last 20 miles. Rope seal fell apart and clogged oil galleries, crank was junk. I have never used anything but a rubber rear seal since! Rope was only thing until they offered rubber. Rear cap had a small pin sticking up to hold rope in place. Had to pound that out to use a rubber seal. By late 80s they changed to external rear main seal instead of inside the rear cap. Easy to replace, just pull transmission. I have a lot of engines under my belt and had good places to learn from.

Ya, just trying to make a final decision. The brgs all looked about new so I don't see any issue with the crank. It could stay in. But would be nice to strip it bare. Just have to price it. I will never recoup the cost of all this with what do with the truck. My buddy was over the other day and said "you coulda just run this". Well, it did need a head gasket on the back head(sooner then later). I through the 237 in and it is a slobbery mess. I'm not putting up with that again.

Crank isn't out to be able to press them out that way. Not that I haven't thought of removing crank. I also thought of having block hot tanked, new cam bearings, etc. Be nice and clean for paint!! I could have shop remove and install new liners? Might make a call? Not sure I want to hear the price!!!!! I have a local place that does truck engines.

I don't have the patience to tinker that long 😆. But sure do love looking at projects that look that nice. Besides I "use" my stuff too much to keep it that nice.

Interesting. Here is 6400 part number at Freedom. $590. https://www.freedomracing.com/am-pt-6400-c-cylinder-liner-puller-assembly-tool.html I wonder what the difference is between the two part numbers? Says Cummins and CAT. But ONI lists it as Mack? What is the bore difference between Mack and CAT?