Freightrain

Late to the party.... Congrats on new job. Hope it brings you happiness. I want to change jobs after 40 yrs here but I will loose a bunch of perks that I don't want to loose, yet.

I looked online and it basically looks like the same basic set up as a car transmission has. Cone shaped engagement. It is the friction material that makes or breaks the engagement depending on what fluid is used. Just like I mentioned in the post above. They use material that works well with lighter fluids today compared to the 60-70s. Newer car transmissions can't use thick gear lube due to small roller bearings and the clearances they work with. The old loose fittings gears allowed thick gear oil. This falls in the same kind of category.

Just my .02 worth of knowledge and synchros (in car transmissions). The old brass blocker rings worked better with mineral oil. Synthetic was too slippery and it would rake gears. Most new automotive transmissions use a version of ATF and with fiber blocker rings it shifts fine. I don't know what Eaton uses for synchros today? I think the old boxes were brass when it used mineral oil. I agree with not mixing fluids. I take that as using 1/2 syn and 1/2 mineral persay. Topping it off with one while it still has something else in it. Mine is very dry right now so there would not be any "mixing" of fluids

I thought I saw specs that say it was okay to use. I also understand that changing now would likely not be a good idea. But, the fact that this transmission was never shifted would alter that fact slightly. The discs are still permeated with synthetic oil. So I guess I will change my bucket out.

Wonderful. Guess I will return this bucket and get synthetic. Ugh. I hate paying for that crap.

No.

Thanks for that!

Remove the AN fittings and the plate has o rings to seal it? I don't think it would be good to dead head the pump? Or does the plate allow bypass?

Some progress today: And then.... Tadaaaa. I picked up a 5 gal pail of 50w gear oil for the transmission. I need to plug off the cooler fittings before filling as I don't know if that won't just puke everything back out. I am going to just loop the two lines for current operation. I don't think I need a cooler. Maybe I will look into a small alum cooler and mount on the frame down in the air just for the shitzandgiggles of it. I received the steering column yoke and.....it was packaged wrong and is not correct. The eBay seller promptly refunded my money. I got lucky and found one in a truck parts warehouse in Tn and should see it early next week. Once that fits, I can get box mounted and work towards getting it connected to the column. I am feeling good today.

Not sure how old of truck you are looking at but the old two stick 6 spd is popular. Real deep under 1st for crawling but a decent OD.

Left handed? Really? Wonder why?

They make left handed taps in all sizes(std and metric). My work uses them A LOT due to what we make. If you run into issues, let me know as it may be something I have here at work you can use. They do make left hand heli coils so fixing stripped threads shouldn't be a problem.

New push button on dash and I rebuilt the air valve in the tank when I installed the system 8-9? years ago. I have the old steam valve but local friend says don't use it. He runs air start on his Freightliner FLD and helped me get mine dialed in. Works great.

Great project. I see a hand brake in the cab picture so no spring brakes. It does have front brake reduction control. Unique design and I have never seen one like that. Looks adjustable unlike later design that is preset with a toggle valve on the dash for On and Off. I would bet that is aftermarket and installed by the owner. Air start? Cool. I put that in my truck. I would guess you have the lever control under the seat? They are leaky and not good for long periods. I have a later air control valve design and it holds 100# for 7 months during winter storage. That old steam valve likely barely makes it 24 hrs before draining the tank. The cut and pinched brass lines must be a factory thing? I have a few lines like that on my truck.

I have boost and pyro. Tonight's fabri-cobble. Jake brackets. Since finding real ones would be hens teeth I just took a few hours to come up with this. Looks like it will work fine. Had to fab up 237 also but this pump works backwards compared to 237 so I had to reverse it. Now I can wire it up and test it. New clutch. Was going with organic but for a "few dollars more" I can add 300 ft lb of capabilities. Why? Just because. It was what was in it when I took it apart. I was able to find yokes for steering column(I hope they are right). Will get them in a few days and I can start on steering column. I will bring Miller 211 mig home from work so I can fill in extra holes in frame where I removed original steering box. I have a big Miller but can't fit it in front of truck in my little stall so the 120/240 machine at work will be easy to work with.

Absolutely agree. I can't wait to kick it in the ass. Even though I am not heavy I am not afraid to make smoke!

They always have worked. Haven't tried it on this motor yet. There is oil getting to the heads, but it is the rocker tips that seem to be marginal at best. A few have oil drooling out of the rocker tip. Most basically nothing. Granted there is not much spring pressure, valve lift or RPM that would wear the rocker faces. I always question it because on a gas engine if you have the valve covers off....you are getting soaked even at idle.

The 237 ran for the last 9 yrs as such. I noticed the lack of oil back then. It still leaked at the valve covers enough to think it would be flooding the heads. It was always damp in spots.

Back to square one. Was able to fit in my small mill at home. Drill/tap insert thread insert. I also took a quick pass across the mounting surface with a face mill. Got rid of the rust and rough pitting. It's all back together and running. Question to the guys in the know: Does the valve train not get much oil? Valve tips are not getting much. A few more then others. The rockers are getting oil at the shaft as you can see it drip out but the rocker tip not so much. These are the rockers from the 237 and they didn't oil much. I did clean them and used air pressure to make sure the rocker passages are clear. Moving rocker up/down you can feel air spurt out at the tip. It didn't seem to have issues on the 237 with wear or anything. Is this normal? The studs I got were just a smidge short on thread length so I had to stack up a couple washers to make sure the nut didn't bottom out before tightening.

No problem Vlad. You have way more knowledge than me about that stuff. I have never thought that hard about it, as I just learned about cavitation when I bought my new 2000 Ford Power stroke pickup and keeping the ph level in the anti freeze checked to keep pitting to a minimum. As for the manifold, I did buy some thin wall inserts and new 3/8" studs that I will be installing tonight in hopes to get that all back on the engine and running again. I will post pictures.

Ya, remember seeing/hearing it. Thought it was an iron lung 275? Can picture their rigs but can't recall name. Nice stuff.

Yes, I didn't want to crack it! I was very careful with the heat.

Well, one step forward, one step back. The nuts on the turbo studs were marginal so I bought new locking nuts. As I was just snugging the last one.....zip.....stud came loose. 🤦 So off comes the turbo and I used heat to remove the other three studs to see there was barely any rust holding them into the manifold either. 🤦 Glad I hadn't folded the lock tabs on the exhaust manifold studs😲 Guess I will be installing helicoils in all four as the rest were not much to look at also once I unscrewed them. Ya, M10x1.5 threads. Why? Just because the stud threads for the nuts were m10x1.25. Ya, that is about the most odd thread ever. Just you can't get them at the local Ace hardware. Lucky for me I have two major bolt houses and it was something they carry. So, no more running until I get this to work and use the mill so they are nice and straight so the studs fit the turbo. Well, at least it wasn't in the truck? The last stud is being a real pisser. Letting cool and try later. I don't want to crack the manifold! I did loosen it off the motor so it could move around easier.

I used to constantly tear my SPS apart and clean the contacts. Got fed up and switched to 12v neg ground.

Go back and edit and erase the extra link codes, that should help with the pictures. The codes are piggybacked . Go to the "jpg" and erase after it in each line. I agree with Vlad. Get some 3/16" steel cable and some hooks and some turn buckles. Go diagonal along the sides and across the ends. That should stiffen it. That is how real steel buildings are erected. Our shop has them except they are like 3/4" rods. Big. And on windy days they clank as the building moves.