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i dumped aohell browser on opitumum online carrier for Verizon fios. best change i ever made.

i do know i have seen auto applications that require a torque on them,,,but i have never tightened anything right up that way..bob

hell i thought AOL went away with dial up and my space lol...frankly,,i dont even know who we use now,,,id have to ask inpector Clouseau..bob

Yes Paul, turning the hub is part of the feel for it . Metal doesn't lie. It will tell you if its loose or tight..

I have never torqued a axle nut I do it as tight as I can the whole time wiggling the hub and down and rolling the hub around, this makes sure the wheel bearings are fully seated, at least in my peanut of a brain Then back the nut of, then just do it up until it is snug and back it off until the first flat or hole in the nut lines up for the spilt pin I guess this would be pretty close to Joey's measurements Paul

On axle nuts, I used to preload them at 200 lbft, back the nut off, and then go to 50 lbft, and move the nut according to lining up the holes for the cotter pin. Many times having to back the off a small amount.

What are you in the middle of there? I’m getting tired just looking at the picture ha ha

OK, I see it now. I missed the last video clip Looks like bearing is completely missing

1st things 1st, find out the state of the parts he has. You can check the rods in the engine but you really need the crank out to check the mains good. Rod bearings can fail from excessive main clearance, as the oil goes 1st to the mains from the block, then through the crank drilling to the big end. Pistons rattling back and forth are another consideration. This wasn't a single failure but multiple problems. Before sinking good money into one part, assess the total condition of the engine and what it would take to bring it back. Repairing this engine may cost more than importing another complete engine, that has been run and tested. Will the block accept new liners? Any cracks to the block, main bearing webs etc? Will it need the main bearing saddles line bored? I myself, have been guilty at times, thinking I can fix "just one" problem only to discover several more after spending my money on the one part I thought it needed, hard learned experience when dealing with a big problem with expensive parts, is to make a complete assessment before spending dollar one. I am in one now, that I thought could be fixed with one rod, one piston, but is getting a new block. Part of that is because I can't get correct parts to fit, but it also is "mission creep".

Don’t know, man I watched all the videos. I can’t really see anything wrong with it. I must be missing something. Just a lot of dirty oil.

Ok. I hope these part numbers help you... Jojo

Well, I still don’t see it. We wound up leaving the ball game early. Home team losing 9-4 7th inning stretch and we were both exhausted…. 40 years on nights … and I’m not used to staying up much past 800 anymore it we did hook up with friends and had drinks and good food hope everyone had a ball

I didn't see any bearing in the pictures. It wasn't seized apparently. Needs to mic it and see if there even is a chance the crank could be cut. (for real) From all the video and pictures, it's look'n like this engine's best years are behind it. Easy for us guys here to not totally understand how difficult it may be to repair something like that where he is. Might end up with a less than desireable repair to make it run again, and as a novelty truck ?? it might get by.

I am trying to find info to make the search for a crank easier. Guys,,,, chime in here... It looks like the crank for an END and an E-6 2-Valve may be the same. If so, that may help with getting one, even though Macks are like hen's teeth is Ireland, but maybe there is a junker sittin somewhere that has a donor card..

There was a good bit of movement..

Terry check out the video highly doubt salvage! 30 thou min turn! My opinion!

Judging by the slop in the pictures it is beyond just grinding. it would need to be built back up and re ground, Can be done, question is: is it economical to do so? Most cases a used crank is cheaper.

Thank you Gentlemen

Would the crank be turnable there? would be alot cheaper to have bearings and maybe a rod shipped than a whole crankshaft. terry

Hi all,we are trying to identify our front axle.We dont know what weight its rated for or what toqure the wheel bearing nut are.any help would be great.The pics show the only numbers we can find on the axle.Thanks for reading.. Paul

In reality, that is just an adjustable "pin" that when the main gear nears the end of travel, it pushes on a ball-check valve and dumps pressure before the gear dead-heads. It doesn't hold the the head from coming off. I never touched it when doing mine, 'cause I didn't want to have to adjust it after repairs, just left it as is.

it should be a 5/16th hex head set screw having a 1/2 in six point nut for lock.

That’s factory what you have I would try to find something to work with it, not sure but I think the screen is the filter , the two parts on build sheet might be the filter can and the bracket that mounts it. Fabricating a screen to hold a filter material inside what you have should be the easiest solution. My brother Tom spent a lot of time getting the Edelbrock filter on which looks cool but a purist would frown on it , we are not purists!…..Jack

You could be right about the engine being doctored up Mark.I feel bad for Nathen after all the work he put into it.Yes Macks are very very uncommon over here.Nathen's is the last Cruiseliner in the UK and ours is the only Cruiseliner to have ever been regestered in Ireland...I only know of 5 other Macks in Ireland...3 F models,1 R model and a gas powered 50s stake truck not sure of the model as Iv never seen it.Theres rumour of an MH lurking around the country but its unconfirmed as of now....I hope Nathen gets sorted soon...... Paul