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B Model Electrical Problem


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hi, the mack im looking to buy has a "slight" electrical problem, im not really sure what it is though. Its a 1966 B model mack. What happens is whenever a new set of batteries is thrown on the truck, they die within an day. Its been sitting due to this problem and will be up for sale around november, and its my only real chance of getting a truck. Anyone know what kind of problem is causing this? and how much it could be to fix. Thanks alot!

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hi, the mack im looking to buy has a "slight" electrical problem, im not really sure what it is though. Its a 1966 B model mack. What happens is whenever a new set of batteries is thrown on the truck, they die within an day. Its been sitting due to this problem and will be up for sale around november, and its my only real chance of getting a truck. Anyone know what kind of problem is causing this? and how much it could be to fix. Thanks alot!

Do they run down with the truck just sitting and not running or do they run down with the truck running?

DW

1948 Mack Pumper
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Do they run down with the truck just sitting and not running or do they run down with the truck running?

DW

Im not exactly sure, all he told me was that when they throw new batteries on it, their both dead within a day. I assume it comes from sitting, but im not 100% sure. I guess all possible scenarios would help.

If they died while its running, it would be a problem within the generator/alternator.

If they die while its sitting, im not sure.

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Mack CF if your batteries are going dead while the truck is setting it more than likely has a drain somewhere. These can be hard to find. One way to stop this is with a battery disconnect switch, the come either with or without keys, and cost about 50 bucks if I remember right for the switch and cable ends to hook it up. Hope this helps, Block.

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Mack CF, this sounds like a welded set of contacts someplace. Could be the series/parallel switch, or the regulator assy. I would undo the "BAT" terminal from the regulator and see if the problem persists. If so, take a cable loose from each battery (one at a time) and check for voltage depletion every couple of hours. An internal shorted battery usually is abnormally warm to the touch. I would lean on the regulator first.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Would a volt meter be able to pick it up if the battery is draining?

You need an ammeter to measure the drain current. The battery voltage will drop but its not the proper way to check for the leak. Try this get a 12V bulb and disconnect one of the main battery leads (make sure the series parallel switch is in 12V.) Put the bulb in series with the battery leads. If it glows or lights with the ignition off you have a leak somewhere. Try that and pull the fuses one by one until the lamp extinguishes, if that doesent work then your going to have to dig around and disconnect wires till you find the leak. You can use a volt meter to probe around for power while the ignition is off (leave one lead connected to a good ground point). A dead short would melt any smaller gauge wires. IF the batteries die in one night then its a major leak as 4 12v truck batteries dont die so easily from obvious things like lights or radio left on.

-Thad

What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog!

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  • 3 weeks later...

A test light in series with neg or pos cable will tell if you found the draw. Leave light hooked up and go around unhook stuff til the light goes out. Presto-chango the problem will be solved.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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