More info on the new to me tractor

[Flying Pig]

I asked lots of questions before I  had all the information.  Now that the truck is  here I can supply some more details.  Maybe not such good as I thought.

The truck was advertised as a 1990 CH 350hp with low miles on the engine.  Seller didnt have paperwork.  The tag tells us instead of an E7 350 its had an E6 300 transplanted.  Because of this we are uncovering lots more.  I have a guy from Housby in Des Moines looking into what the factory says I can do.  Years ago I made a living hauling grain and livestock with a F model 300+ and a 5 speed.  Did good for the time and still got me a few tickets.  However, now with the rising speed limits Im not sure this will keep up.  Anyone know (while waiting on factory and retired tech advice) if I can screw this up any on HP and torque?  It has the air to air intercooler plumbing consistent with the CH body.  

My previous questions had to do with changing the transmission to go slower in job sites.  I got many responses to those and  I thank you all.   I was leaning toward an 8 speed but someone suggested a 12, 13, or 18 speed.  I did find ratios for the 18 and that would be lower than my Ford with Fuller 9 speed(12.47 low).  Not as low as the Mack 8 but still an improvement.  Also not the big jump from direct to .6 OD.

The throttle cable looks new but is REAL stiff and resistant to moving.  What is the best way to lube that up?

Ive found the E6 uses a cable tach drive and it appears to me so far the E7 is electric.  Any way to update that?  The speedometer/odometer also only work part time.  Beings I am an interstate carrier I NEED the odometer to work.  Im plenty tired of the audits and fines...

Thanks for all your expertise.

[Geoff Weeks]

There are many ways to go from mechanical drive to electronic output. However if the tach in question is designed to be driven from the ECM can-bus then it becomes much harder.  1990 sounds to early for that, but I'll let other comment on what they know.

If the tach in question is a stand alone electronic then 1st I'd look for 3/4"x 16 TPI port on the bell housing for a pick-up to 'read" the ring gear. 

Failing that, there are devices that can screw into the mechanical drive on the engine and give a pulsed output that can be read by the tach.

I take it you now own this truck, and it isn't something you're looking to buy? If I didn't own it, I wouldn't buy it without knowing fully what I am buying.

[Freightrain]

Wow, sounds like you have quite the predicament.

I got "lucky" when buying the engine I am rebuilding.  It was advertised as a 285.  Upon looking at it, the engine was a 300+.  I think it was a transplant and previous owner didn't look at it closely.  The VIN said 285, so that's what they thought it was. I quickly made the deal.

Not being well versed in possibilities of your engine upgrades, it is likely there is something you can do to increase power slightly.  Doubt it can go far reliably, but anything can help.

[Flying Pig]

I am in a predicament.  It wasnt till we got home doing some more in depth looking for an  increase in power that we found the engine tag missing from behind the injector pump.  Only part of the one on the valve cover is legible.

I dont plan on big changes in power.  At this point anything would be better.  Initially I was hoping to get to 400 thinking it was an E7.  Now Im not so sure what I can do.

Edited 7 hours ago by Flying Pig

[Geoff Weeks]

Sorry to hear that. I tried running 300 hp with today's loads and speed and found it lacking, esp in the wind. With me it was an 855 Cummins, so could be built up higher. E6, I don't know, may be other can advise on what your choices are.

300 would get down the road fine on a nice calm day, get 35 mph side wind and you were down below 50, sometimes way below 50.  

[mrsmackpaul]

How do you know it's a 300 E6 and not a 350 E6 ?

Does it have a boost gauge ?

If it does have a boost gauge, what does it read when pulling hard ?

Whats the diff ratios ?

The E6 has to be reving right at the speeds you want to travel to get the power you want

Is this a Thermodyne, Maxidyne or Econodyne E6 ?

All of this information is important before changing things 

It's easy to spend money and not get the result your chasing if you don't know your starting point

Nail down the points you can 100% say are 100% correct and accurate and then and only start making plans 

 

Paul

 

[mrsmackpaul]

And also be realistic with your expectations, the E6 is only a small motor but does have a big heart

All of that been said, you won't ever mix it with the big boys in modern equipment 

 

Paul 

[Flying Pig]

mrsmackpaul,  The tag on the valve  cover indicates its a 300.  Ive contacted some help at a dealer here in Iowa that is tracking down serial numbers.  Part of the tag is unreadable but he said it is for sure a 300.  Back in the 70s I was always overweight, weighing in a good 20,000lbs over.  Even at that weight I found a few speeding tickets.  This one however is governed at only 1700.  Ill get more details as they come available.

The axle ratio is 4.17 and tires are 11x22.5.

Edited 3 hours ago by Flying Pig