Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Buddy, i was messin with you..  i still have my old run-out tools.. Do i use them ???  I wish i did many more older engines so that i knew the BS i am spewing..  🍻

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Buddy, i was messin with you..  i still have my old run-out tools.. Do i use them ???  I wish i did many more older engines so that i knew the BS i am spewing..  🍻

as our Grandparents hated rock/roll  ; the mechanical world also deals with changes ; not always a positive, between robots/ AOL  ;pride (NOT RAINBOW STYLE  ) in work is gone.  the 866 I got running today could almost bring tears,a feeling most will never experience. so sad

  • Like 2
27 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Mech ???  You know Damned well that without checking, the run out will be under .008"...  🍻😁

back in the day of listening to the "teachers of build" .oo8 was too far out for precision, can't explain the mechanical world I was so fortunate to have grown up with: Teachers that knew by experience, Before  computers/ AOL  . learning from one of the best::: James Cassidy  on 318's ;; to build/ start and PERFETLY set a DD 318 . tips of the stacks were blue. SO THANKFUL I AM 

  • Like 1
52 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

to build a true machine '' truck or other wise ;; removing the bellhousing  and reinstall included the dial-indicating of the bell housing to eliminate vibration.!!

You can check the run-out without removing, If it is in spec, your good to go, if not than you have to pull pins, align and ream the pins oversize. 

 Nothing lost by NOT pulling it. Nothing gained by pulling it when it is in spec, other than a little easier to pull the input bearing.

 If you pull it, you need to check, if you don't and there aren't any symptoms or complaint that would make it suspect, easier to do on the engine side. 

Trans side you have pins and the bearing retainer, so more likely to be fine, unless you are swapping bell housing halves.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

You can check the run-out without removing, If it is in spec, your good to go, if not than you have to pull pins, align and ream the pins oversize. 

 Nothing lost by NOT pulling it. Nothing gained by pulling it when it is in spec, other than a little easier to pull the input bearing.

 If you pull it, you need to check, if you don't and there aren't any symptoms or complaint that would make it suspect, easier to do on the engine side. 

Trans side you have pins and the bearing retainer, so more likely to be fine, unless you are swapping bell housing halves.

statement was not implying the bell housing HAS to be remove. technically I should have printed::  IF the bell housing IS removed'; and reinstalled,

Not sure what your actually trying to achieve here Nathan 

I have had these style of Maxitorque boxes right down to housings and every last bit out on the floor 

They aren't that complicated, or at least I never found them to be

I'll send you a message and see if I can help you

 

Paul

 

  • Like 2

Joey, the ones I have worked on, the input shaft has to come out into the box

The box needs to be split and the main gears all dropped out onto the floor 

This maybe different, but thinking maybe not either 

 

Paul

  • Like 1
  • Like 1

Paul,,  I would like to learn about the transmission you say has to be split to pull the input shaft... Just to learn something, even if i never work on one of them.. I appreciate your knowledge Bud...  Jojo

3 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Joey, the ones I have worked on, the input shaft has to come out into the box

The box needs to be split and the main gears all dropped out onto the floor 

This maybe different, but thinking maybe not either 

 

Paul

agree ,with above also what FJH stated ,,  back in the day the transmission guru at Mack (Al Dixon) took   the tri counter shaft transmissions stood them on the nose using large blocks , each section had to be separated. pilot shaft drive gear wouldn't fit through hole. I spent my lunch hr in the machine shop asking many questions.

Mech, 100% correct, dont have to drop the whole shooting match apart, just the bit your fixing 

Lids off, undo the selector rod grub screws on the forks

Undo the section you need access to and lift it apart carefully 

Always use gaskets, none of that poxy form a gasket crap or your grey silicone stuff

Oozes out the inside and blocks the oil galleries and then gets stuck in the sliding dogs and and then she won't stay in gear 

Old mate at "gear boxes are us" (I  dunno if such a joint exists, I made that up) says to you "mate she's  cattle trucked, there cheap today, only 5 gorillas for a change over"

When all it needs is dropping apart and cleaning out

I have lived this dream a couple of times now

Don't use silicone (can't call it what we call it out here, I'd be banned for sure) or a similar form a gasket crap

Gaskets are made for a reason, gasket goo or Indian head I hear Bob call it and the gaskets

If you can't keep the oil from leaking out, find out why ?

Anyway, I'll get off my soap box

 

Paul

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...