Freightrain Posted Sunday at 10:38 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:38 PM 6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: Oops. Your right, I just did the math.... 🙃 I may be screwed up. Pull clutch would wear the rear side(pulling crank towards rear). The pilot bearing would wear front due to crank being pushed forward. Time to relax before I get too wacked out on my thinking. 1 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587933 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted Sunday at 10:42 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:42 PM Yep.. I just realized i was too quick to doubt myself.. I did a do over on my math.. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587934 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted Sunday at 10:43 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:43 PM 3 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: Generally, here if the rear mounts are on the engine 1/2 of the bell, a rear transmission "leaf spring" type or rubber bisket mount is used. On set-up's where the rear mount is on the transmission 1/2 of the bell (thinking Volvo/White) then there is nothing at the rear of the transmission. It may have something to do with how much weight is cantilevered off the back of the bell housing, esp when aluminum housing are used. Just an observation spot on with that response.;; Mack to Mack power trains the rear engine mount is on the transmission. when a "foreign transmission "is used having rear engine mounts ON the engine bellhousing< a rear support hanger is used on the transmission. as always there are exceptions to the rule . a Mack engine with rear bellhousing mounts coupled to a RR could possibly eliminate the rear hanger mount. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587935 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted Sunday at 10:50 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:50 PM 7 minutes ago, Freightrain said: I may be screwed up. Pull clutch would wear the rear side(pulling crank towards rear). The pilot bearing would wear front due to crank being pushed forward. Time to relax before I get too wacked out on my thinking. think I need another Yukon Jack BUT the pilot bearing wear would have very little to do with the push/pull clutch arrangement. clutch disc sliding on a pilot shaft SHOULD have slight wear on a bearing. that much movement on the pilot shaft would indicate another problem with transmission front bearing ???yes/no ?? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587936 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted Sunday at 10:53 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:53 PM His front crankshaft thrust bearing was damaged. So we started chatting about the forward forces on the crank that would have damaged the thrust bearing.. I even doubted myself when I knew I was right about my Boo Boo doing that job.. I guess I need another shot of Potato Juice. 🍻 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587937 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted Sunday at 11:03 PM Share Posted Sunday at 11:03 PM I better go back to page one "check on the damaged thrust bearing, then make a second Yukon . to have with my Chinese lo mien. someone dumping the clutch regularly would possibly effect the crankshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587938 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted Sunday at 11:05 PM Share Posted Sunday at 11:05 PM Just go back a few pages. He posted pictures 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587939 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted Sunday at 11:19 PM Share Posted Sunday at 11:19 PM 6 hours ago, Joey Mack said: I see the inspection cover is on top, on the trans. Where is it on the new bell housing? Just curious... another cost cut back. early bellhousings had the bottom inspection/ grease cove also the top ribbed vent cover. excessive heat in some bellhousings was lessened with top vent. easier/ cheaper to manufacture bellhousing without top vent 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587940 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fjh Posted yesterday at 02:25 PM Popular Post Share Posted yesterday at 02:25 PM 17 hours ago, Freightrain said: I am working on rolling in new mains. Question for FJH or Joey: The thrust brg on the cap side. Should it rotate slightly? The brg seems to have a slot machined in the bottom where it can rotate about 3/8"(width of pin) over top of the pin. Looks machined but the pin itself is worn on that side also. Coincidence? Back side is not cut and only wiggles a touch on the pin(which is still round and not worn like this side). This happens on the forward side when you don't have free pedal on the clutch ! I have a habit! I open the drivers door put my hand on the clutch pedal I then know what to expect when I go to move the truck! I also now Can Nag at to whom ever owns the truck to adjust the dam thing for that very reason! One of my many pet peeves! 1 2 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587959 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted yesterday at 02:32 PM Share Posted yesterday at 02:32 PM luv it !! fjh 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587960 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted yesterday at 02:39 PM Share Posted yesterday at 02:39 PM 6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: luv it !! fjh Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587961 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted yesterday at 03:00 PM Share Posted yesterday at 03:00 PM 21 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: clutch shaft higher also. will the added height clear the body/cab? That can be nasty too the shaft lining up with the bottom frame flange yuck Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587972 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted yesterday at 03:46 PM Share Posted yesterday at 03:46 PM 1 hour ago, fjh said: This happens on the forward side when you don't have free pedal on the clutch ! I have a habit! I open the drivers door put my hand on the clutch pedal I then know what to expect when I go to move the truck! I also now Can Nag at to whom ever owns the truck to adjust the dam thing for that very reason! One of my many pet peeves! once again this forum proves no matter your age or years of wrench pushing, the world of mechanics has no age limit to learning new knowledge. having replaced ???? number of thrust washers through the years never associated the clutch free play with why one side worn not the other. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587973 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted yesterday at 03:52 PM Share Posted yesterday at 03:52 PM 16 hours ago, Joey Mack said: His front crankshaft thrust bearing was damaged. So we started chatting about the forward forces on the crank that would have damaged the thrust bearing.. I even doubted myself when I knew I was right about my Boo Boo doing that job.. I guess I need another shot of Potato Juice. 🍻 seeing the picture , I understand the issue better. thinking "damaged" ;question how? , the picture better describes the situation as "worn" , with the front thrust bearing having a slightly wider gap allowed for it to rock back/forth wearing the bearing and steel pin. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587974 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted yesterday at 03:56 PM Share Posted yesterday at 03:56 PM Well Mecho, I think I got you beat. I really can’t add anything to this conversation except is it too late to go get something out of that R model it took the transmission and engine out of.??? 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587975 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post cruiseliner64 Posted yesterday at 04:15 PM Popular Post Share Posted yesterday at 04:15 PM 24 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: once again this forum proves no matter your age or years of wrench pushing, the world of mechanics has no age limit to learning new knowledge. having replaced ???? number of thrust washers through the years never associated the clutch free play with why one side worn not the other. Fully agree with you Mecho...The stuff Iv learned and been reminded of doing our Cruiseliner is unreal.It is another thing Iv really enjoyed about doing the work on the old gal.... Paul 2 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587978 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mechohaulic Posted yesterday at 04:27 PM Popular Post Share Posted yesterday at 04:27 PM 21 hours ago, Joey Mack said: Paul.. The single leaf spring at the rear of the main box was used here as well. Ive seen it in Ford's and Freightliner's, I think Int.'s also. the rear "helper spring on transmission not only depends on location of rear engine mount but also transmission being used. I removed a junk 6+2 from IH having DT466(?) installed a 8LL removed from an identical IH having same engine/bellhousing . the 8LL had the rear spring assist both engines had motor mount on engine. 4 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-587981 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted 16 hours ago Author Share Posted 16 hours ago The mains are all rolled in. I only pulled them to 50# currently just to seat them. I need to borrow a friends big boy torque wrench as mine only goes to 150#. I might as well wait until the rods are in and I can torque it all up then. Cranks spins effortlessly with just a finger on a rod journal. Nice. I have rear seal plate washed up and ready for new seal. Oh, ya, I asked if it came with the kit. Ya, it was " supposed to" .....but it doesn't. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦. Just another $50 probably. Christ how worthless it is today dealing with very unknowledgeable people just starting out because all the older folks retired and left a HUGE gap of information. Next big hurdle: To get the bores cleaned up one last time, check liners and wash them to get ready for installation. The Mack books says they should slip in 1/2-2/3 way and whack them the rest of the way. Yikes. No, not doing it that way. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588024 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 16 hours ago Share Posted 16 hours ago The rear main seal may offer 2 options. 1 without a wear ring and 1 with a wear ring. The seal itself is different. Just FYI Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588025 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted 15 hours ago Author Share Posted 15 hours ago Crank does have a wear ring installed. 1 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588030 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Freightrain Posted 15 hours ago Author Popular Post Share Posted 15 hours ago Just read the instructions that came with liners. Protrusion is .002-.009 not the .0035-.0075 in the Mack manual. Guess the .010 I have is close enough. 3 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588031 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 6 hours ago Share Posted 6 hours ago The wear ring + seal is a differnt part number than without the ring. Hope the Mack parts guy gets the right one. I think the number is in the KSA&A book. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588039 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted 4 hours ago Author Share Posted 4 hours ago Kit doesn't have front seal either. 🤦 WTF good is a "kit" if it leaves out all the important parts?? 1 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588042 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted 3 hours ago Share Posted 3 hours ago Dammit Man... i wish i still had my extra parts. I sent them back with the engine i built. I dont have the part numbers 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588047 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago 13 hours ago, Freightrain said: The mains are all rolled in. I only pulled them to 50# currently just to seat them. I need to borrow a friends big boy torque wrench as mine only goes to 150#. I might as well wait until the rods are in and I can torque it all up then. Cranks spins effortlessly with just a finger on a rod journal. Nice. I have rear seal plate washed up and ready for new seal. Oh, ya, I asked if it came with the kit. Ya, it was " supposed to" .....but it doesn't. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦. Just another $50 probably. Christ how worthless it is today dealing with very unknowledgeable people just starting out because all the older folks retired and left a HUGE gap of information. Next big hurdle: To get the bores cleaned up one last time, check liners and wash them to get ready for installation. The Mack books says they should slip in 1/2-2/3 way and whack them the rest of the way. Yikes. No, not doing it that way. Good luck mine went right in with chunk of wood and light taps with a hammer after dropping in around 2/3 the way Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/75768-300-rebuild/page/15/#findComment-588048 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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