E6, setting injection timing via pulse adapter

[Full Floater]

In search of a better way to set injection timing.
I'm working on 2, 237's.  Both with Ambac pumps. One with a fresh rebuild pump and another with a used pump swapped from another engine.   Both engine data plates read 26 degrees at port closing.   I have spilled timed both of them, to as close to 26 degrees as I could manage.   Both engines are running good and sounding good.  However, both engines smoke quite a bit of blue (unburnt fuel) at an idle, especially when cold.   They clear up once i've got my foot into it under load.  The injectors are also fresh rebuilds so it's unlikely that the spray pattern is poor.  And neither engine uses much oil or has much blow by.

So...I figure my spill timing is out a couple degrees, probably retarded.  instead of pulling the delivery valves a few more times and messing around rotating the engine with the hard to reach crank pulley on the Western model R's; I would like to try the pulse type/clamp on timing adapter with a strobe light.  I have a Snap-on and use it on other model engines, no problem.  I haven't tried it yet on the Macks.   

If I clamp this to #1 injector tube, and read the mark on the crank when illuminated by the probe, should I expect to see the actual injection timing illuminated at an idle speed, or at a certain RPM?  I know some engines with an advance mechanism in the pump (like some of the Roosa Master style Stanadyne pumps) require the engine to be at 2000rpm to accurately set timing. 

Edited yesterday at 03:31 AM by Full Floater

[fjh]

Sorry bro I have never used the timing tool you speak of!I have on Ambac always set them by spill  or blow ! I remove the delivery valve set close to the desired number and then back up the engine a tad then pull it back to  to check the set! I ran into this once on a v8 the pump shop swore it was to be set at 19 I could not make it clean up after trying several times! I finally got pissed off an set it to 22  which made it run clean an pull good! I blow time ! (A rubber hose on the inlet of the pump) not sure how you’re doing it!  I suggest you jump the timing up the way you’re doing it ,three degrees or so and see if it helps things! Some of the older engines went as high as 30 degrees!
 

just me!

[Full Floater]

13 hours ago, fjh said:

Sorry bro I have never used the timing tool you speak of!I have on Ambac always set them by spill  or blow ! I remove the delivery valve set close to the desired number and then back up the engine a tad then pull it back to  to check the set! I ran into this once on a v8 the pump shop swore it was to be set at 19 I could not make it clean up after trying several times! I finally got pissed off an set it to 22  which made it run clean an pull good! I blow time ! (A rubber hose on the inlet of the pump) not sure how you’re doing it!  I suggest you jump the timing up the way you’re doing it ,three degrees or so and see if it helps things! Some of the older engines went as high as 30 degrees!
 

just me!

Thanks.   Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing.  

I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results. 

[fjh]

1 hour ago, Full Floater said:

Thanks.   Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing.  

I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results. 

Yup that would be interesting too know ! That type of pulse timing set up is meant for timing on the fly by turning the pump I believe! Can’t see it being helpful other than not removing the delivery valve! Be alright to check accuracy I would guess! I get the hassle on the RS rad is dam close to the damper on these where the RD the rad is lifted! Good access to the crank bolt!

[glenbjackson]

Gonna try on my lines tonight or tomorrow. 

Hope this helps

[mrsmackpaul]

Wont tjis br only accurate to the width of the magnetic strip ?

I don't know anything about this at all, but from what I can see above it reads off a bit of magnet that must stuck onto the crank by the looks 

So I'm thinking it must read as the magnet passes, the longer the magnet it is the less accurate the spot is ? Would this be correct ?

Also if this is correct, the bigger the diameter the magnet is stuck to the more accurate it will be ?

So I'm thinking the flywheel may be the spot to measure from 

 

Paul

 

[mowerman]

thats where my timing marks are,,,bob