glenbjackson

the ratio of the front axle would be faster or smaller numerical ratio for mack transfer cases. they are to be installed with that setup of axles, to have "fast forward" axle ratio to be able to unlock the differential in case the drive line has wound-up torque. very very nice truck.

id tell him to keep pushing through, you learn a huge amount of how you motor works and interchangeability by doing and touching it yourself. also he's keeping usable parts out the landfill if he shares his knowledge on these forums we all dually benefit from his effort. im also tearing down a ford motor i never knew existed. 6.22l inline 6 diesel, mechanical pump...... elegantly simple. came in farm trators, road trators, dollies and trucks overseas. alot of commonlly available parts that no literature mentions that would be compatible. would not know unless i held part in my hand and seen this might fit such-n-such. this is how you become one of the guys with a wealth of knowledge..... by doing.

did anything feel like it was gonna give???? after exhibition race what would be the first mod you;d make to your truck, if you were to continue racing??

what mods did you do to your truck? where did you race. what did you run?????!!!!???? wheels?? cast or disc? Do they even make demountable rims for super singles? CAB MODs ?? owww heavy rollcage🥴rops? axle mods? wheel-end mods?? i looking for a front drive steer currently, who makes the best? brake mods, suspension, electrical, motor mods ? fluids, oils? any venues still open to race? aero mods?? transmission mods? i like three countershafts and controlling my gears but rock climbing with a clutch idk about that. automated a good in-between? id like to hear and see whats been done, whats possible i havent thought of. I am building a ultra 4 truck to run at king of hammers. On my bucket list at least, there is a unlimited weight class. i looking at my shortest wheelbase truck for agility but going fast maybe too short. Definitely super single in back maybe front. 4x4 for sure(mack t-case excited about this find), spare tire carrier. motor will be either swap to e6 or 671 from the e5 motor in now. drop it couple inches with dry oil sump, help with front drive shaft clearance as well. i dont think air brakes will stay, doesnt seem like a good fit. Maybe fit oil pump to compressor drive position or with it behind it.

Nooo stay mack yo!!!! They are beast!

Diselpowerstroke this motors service manual is free somewhere online just bing or yahoo it. i have to say after little reading im surprised they'd machine exhaust stud holes into push rod bore, allowing oil to leak if threads arent sealed. ehhh bigger camshaft meant moving camshaft outboard more, then lead to push rod bores angled 4* as well as bigger bores. lots going on, sometimes you dont have room. i see why they said it cant be done, the counter bore is not just a flange at top, but a deep ~ 4" deep counter bore. doubt they have that tool that Joey Mack showed. Although standard production counterbore depth is 3.998–4.002", with max machining down to 4.040 idk how many refreshes this casting has had but i doubt 0.038. and for fuel terms its 6 individual unit injectors(cam stroked, electronically metered) feeding injection lines, which have a captured "pass thru nut", which screws into side of block pressing the injection line nose into the NOZZLE(technically not an injector). the NOZZLES are just valves and are vertical in head. held down by a cap/plug. the nozzle (cup) are removable just thread a puller into the cup and pull it out. Sealed with locktight on lower and upper seal primeters then install with an installer/aligner. seems like the E6 4 valve heads, that had nozzle in the center.

having another truck is pricless motivation wise. im waaaaaaayyyyyyyyy more confident on pulling apart a backup truck.🤪

Knowledge is POWER!!! you need to invest in your chassis' and motor's service manual. A must for an owner of a truck or anything you didnt design. You will not be confused and KNOW the repair process for your motor, as well as specs. That "cant repair something" makes me believe mechanic mispoke( shouldve said "we not equiped to do such a repair in-house." not that it cannot be done) or just does not know...........! Either is really bad, thats a big slip of words and id get my truck from them.

Another ambush with a mack truck in "Mo' Money". Aaaannnnndddd Damon Wayans does a stunt under a road tractor/ trailer! Pretty cool

same!!!!! i have a 1987 CM422 i think a case will fit. this thread is motivating!!

so i misspoke after tightening to no lash( measured at input shaft, 15-20lb/in while rotating 90* to each side of center) back out screw one turn and then NOTE the measured tightness/torque (at input shaft, rotating 90* to each side of center) then you tighten it all up with screw until you measure a max rise in torque of 2 to 4lbs/in(from the NOTED torque in previous step) while rotating 45* to each side of center Next tighten Jam nut to 20-25lb/FT lastly check by rotating input shaft back and forth five cycles(rotating 45* to each side of center). properly adjusted will not exceed 2-4lb/in rise from NOTED value at input shaft. check "reverse torque" through the OUTPUT shaft, full travel , through a complete cycle of entire gear should not exceed 50lb FT!

while rotating from side to side(45 degrees left and right of center i think its marked on case) , back and forth multiple times or complete cycles. the center must be pass and will be passed once each cycle. i hope that clears it up. this procedure is with gear disconnected from stuff and off truck. possibly you can do it on truck idk as long as you can access adjusting screw you just dont want to be measuring fluid and linkage. torque corresponds only to internal clearances and resistance.

the adjusting screw should be on opposite side than the pitman arm, other end of sector shaft frame side! should be a screw in center of cap. screw is tightened to no lash, which is measured with torque wrench AT INPUT shaft while rotating side to side(15-20lb in) . then back out one turn and tighten for a tightness of 2-4lb in at the input shaft while turning it side to side, pass center. Center must be passed for correct adjustment, highest and tightest point is the center. Next tighten Jam nut to 20-25lb FT. lastly check by rotating input shaft through entire travel back and forth five cycles. properly adjusted will not exceed 15lb in at input shaft. check "reverse torque" through the OUTPUT shaft, full travel , through a complete cycle should not exceed 50lb FT!

Mackie gets hit by a Mack!!!!! The Red Bull limo gets hit by a Mack DM wrecker in "The Night Before".

or a spring starter! im doing electric and an air.

Im building a DM with a DUAL STARTER (stacy david voice) Detroit 671. im wondering anyone know if detroit ever made a dual starter flywheel housing any of the 71 or 92 series?? makes sense with these motors' versatility and multi positioning setup. ive seen they made dual motor setups. also anyone ever convert a flywheel housing to dual starters? Im going to mod my house since its off, i have an air starter and i like idea traveling with two starters and lastly why the heck not!??!!!!???? Isn't two is always better than one??

Looking for a cab to replace my DM cab that's all gone. This will be all custom truck so I will make it fit. Anybody have anything with an engine tunnel. I want air flow for the motor in this setup.

im no driver but do my own maintenance soooo as far as ease, spoke wheels with demountable rims are much easier than either disc wheel setup. id have to say the hard part comes in knowledge of the systems, or lack of. Finding a shop that has spoke wheel knowledge, just as hard but learn to do it yourself and i think you'll agree. Also id have to think this ignorance and a procedure/design that lends to more room for human error as to why its faded away. Us humans can make a good system look like a bad design when its just not implemented correctly. I can hold socket's axis inline with lug and put needed torque on end of breaker bar for spoke wheel fasteners. Not so with a LONG 1" breaker for disc wheel lug nuts.

Halloween III: Season of the Witch's Silver Shamrock Novalties had a fleet of day cabovers.

Desperado had a All Mack model B.... i think

ANY cab can work if you make it fit. If you stay within the same general configuration of the cab now, conventional, cab-over engine or cab-forward engine, will lean to less work but still gotta use your imagination. Even putting same year, make and model cab back on. Id imagine you'll still be rerouting things and making others work, here and there! Differing versions, vocations, options in the SAME year, make and model. Keep that in mind, this type of project will always be a project, and almost NEVER a straight bolt-on replacement. I'm doing same project with a DM of mine, cab is rotten. Looking a cab to work for what I want; travel in comfort. A sleeper, shower and other convenients. A firetruck cab or a double bunk cabover is seeming to be best fit for me. You just have to plan for fitting around what you are keeping of the truck. My axles, body, ride height, length and drive train is all staying. but im changing my cab but can not alter air flow or operation of the body. Remember maintenance(how its mounted, motor access and ingress/egress) and again my plans of traveling in it(cab features i want). Find that cab that fits YOU then just mock it up and make mounts. Making the mounts will be easy to figure out once you can see the body mocked up on the chassis.

im kinda confused on what you mean by " "release" to apply service brake to the rear" the foot valve is the treadle valve that applies air to both (but separated) front circuit and rear service brakes circuit. are you referring to air pressure to "relaese" spring/parking brake to be able to roll freely, drive and apply or use the service brakes??? thats the pop-in/out hand valve that releases the park(spring brake)... caging it. or do you mean release as in letting the spring relax to apply the brake???? that function is served by the inversion valve, only when you lose primary air(rear brakes circuit) the valve uses front, secondary air(front brake circuit) as a pilot signal to modulate "release" of air from the caged spring brake to apply brakes, allowing spring brake to act as service brakes.

I cannot believe we've forgot Beverly hills cop!!! It starts off with a crackerbox with tandem trailers🫠 As i think about it because it's not a mack😪

Looking to trade!!!!!!!!!!! It was removed from service working!!!! can load im looking for a COE(cab over engine) or a cab-forward cab(stairs in FRONT of steer axle) and a heavy steer DRIVE axle!!!! A fire truck cab would work as well

You could try asking a trucker where local truck tire shops are, they may have some older mounting hardware laying around. That's how I found some old stud piloted disc wheels as well as some tube type and tubeless rims. He even had some split RIMS laying around. I have a truck with large spoke wheels and another with the smaller spoke wheels. There are two sizes! I couldn't read numbers. But I can clean them and try harder if you don't get any leads. Let me know. And I did go up a size on my standard steering gear to 315s and they handle and steer fine so far. As to wearing faster and tearing it up sooner idk 😐.