glenbjackson

Do please show us pics when you remove bad clutch cover!!! id like to learn!

the input shaft is not shown but goes through "release sleeve", rides on the two bronze bushings .......

im not dumb and do want to help so i have to ask am i the only one seeing in the video the release bearing and the clutch cover NOT connected?????? i see the input shaft but you should NOT be able to see that. the input shaft should be inside the release tube, which connects the release bearing to the clutch......... seems the clutch wont work you have a video with motor running and throwout bearing moving?

i do agree......to mount the rims and remove the runout of the rim on the spoked hub, I'd jack up each wheelend. although once mounted and aligning from side to side(toe in/out or axle/tandem alignment) you might want to measure as the truck is driven. with weight on bearings/linkage/springs and without brakes influencing the bearings. PS while test driving please dont forget you WILL/should drift to the right, albeit very slowly even on a straight and level stretch!! that is the road design(drainage/safety), not your truck.

setup is important tooo...... roll forward straight one-two truck lengths and roll to a stop without using brakes. and proper tire pressure!!

could you or a machine shop make them? a small lathe?? i was wondering samething when i goto fix my old pumps and getting parts.

there is supposed to be a tube(release sleeve[with bushings inside]) connecting to release bearing to the pressure springs! so looks like simple replace clutch cover/release bearing

i do not see a center tube that is connected to the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers? i just see the naked input shaft.........or im missing something???? i dont see this release bearing pulling the clutch open

i have to say a "Winona intheblok crankshaft grinder" is akin to buying a home made gasket....it could work if planned, executed correctly and tested for application. both CAN be effective for a permanent fix, both can fail the setup/application. so would i buy this if given a chance. YESSS could turn out better then OEM and they exist. i cannot afford a obsolete/discontinued/nonexistent part. id buy a few and test on a spare motor. but thats alot of time, work= money. but i also see the learning and research aspect of it......priceless just never know until you know(measure/tested) P.S. anybody have the flywheel turning gear/cable attachment for the winona crankshaft grinder. PM me please looking to buy.

also what kind of wheels? cast spoke or disc wheels (lug piloted or hub piloted)?? mounting wrong could cause this.

wow!! that's a slick setup!!! thank you!!! know any model of truck it came in? i gonna find one or two of these!

owwww ok ok thanks!!!! any other info, model designation of truck they were in or literature? sounds like weird setup but Mack does stuff right so id like to see one..... own one!!

awesome articale!!! thanks!!! but that model used a Fabco 16.000lbs front driving axle so no gold bulldog there. but thanks for article pretty cool tractor AND COE smh love it!!!!

is that possible did Mack ever manufacture a front drive steer axle? or did they just always use fabco, rockwell and the such others manufactures??

i like air adapter idea as well, think ill make one. on truck plumbing i suggest installing hand primer on lift pumps as well as a hand pump near the tank. i have this setup on my CM soon all my trucks. Story on how i came to that setup....A sneaky leaky hand priming pump left me stranded once. very very old plastic hand primer pump allowing air into system. Plastic pump was replaced and new one trying to pull fuel on a dryish??\open system through filters didnt work out. Learning from that i just make my fuel systems able to get prime whereever im at. Any patching to get going on side of road may need fuel system priming. the one near tank is just same hand primer pump at lift pump, with two check valves(one on either side of tee-in hand pump), with a ball valve in parallel(cut off only for priming)

i have not tried this but if you cover any vents/holes ..... possibly yes. try it!! fueling is more easily diagnosed with a hand pump at pickup pump AND one down near tank. i have added little hand primers to all my trucks at pickup pump(on injection pump) and next adding another down near tank. any patching to get going on side of road may need system priming. i have this setup on my CM currently and a leaky hand priming pump left me stranded once. very very old plastic hand primer pump was replaced and after trying to pull on a dryish??\open system through filters didnt work out. which i thought that was the purpose of a hand priming pump but hey ive learned. although could have been other leaks in the systems or even quality of replacement hand pump. whatever the case i say just install two hand pumps, call it a day. Or maybe moving tank to same side as injection pump, closer may help idk.