glenbjackson

Do please show us pics when you remove bad clutch cover!!! id like to learn!

the input shaft is not shown but goes through "release sleeve", rides on the two bronze bushings .......

im not dumb and do want to help so i have to ask am i the only one seeing in the video the release bearing and the clutch cover NOT connected?????? i see the input shaft but you should NOT be able to see that. the input shaft should be inside the release tube, which connects the release bearing to the clutch......... seems the clutch wont work you have a video with motor running and throwout bearing moving?

i do agree......to mount the rims and remove the runout of the rim on the spoked hub, I'd jack up each wheelend. although once mounted and aligning from side to side(toe in/out or axle/tandem alignment) you might want to measure as the truck is driven. with weight on bearings/linkage/springs and without brakes influencing the bearings. PS while test driving please dont forget you WILL/should drift to the right, albeit very slowly even on a straight and level stretch!! that is the road design(drainage/safety), not your truck.

setup is important tooo...... roll forward straight one-two truck lengths and roll to a stop without using brakes. and proper tire pressure!!

could you or a machine shop make them? a small lathe?? i was wondering samething when i goto fix my old pumps and getting parts.

there is supposed to be a tube(release sleeve[with bushings inside]) connecting to release bearing to the pressure springs! so looks like simple replace clutch cover/release bearing

i do not see a center tube that is connected to the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers? i just see the naked input shaft.........or im missing something???? i dont see this release bearing pulling the clutch open

i have to say a "Winona intheblok crankshaft grinder" is akin to buying a home made gasket....it could work if planned, executed correctly and tested for application. both CAN be effective for a permanent fix, both can fail the setup/application. so would i buy this if given a chance. YESSS could turn out better then OEM and they exist. i cannot afford a obsolete/discontinued/nonexistent part. id buy a few and test on a spare motor. but thats alot of time, work= money. but i also see the learning and research aspect of it......priceless just never know until you know(measure/tested) P.S. anybody have the flywheel turning gear/cable attachment for the winona crankshaft grinder. PM me please looking to buy.

also what kind of wheels? cast spoke or disc wheels (lug piloted or hub piloted)?? mounting wrong could cause this.

wow!! that's a slick setup!!! thank you!!! know any model of truck it came in? i gonna find one or two of these!

owwww ok ok thanks!!!! any other info, model designation of truck they were in or literature? sounds like weird setup but Mack does stuff right so id like to see one..... own one!!

awesome articale!!! thanks!!! but that model used a Fabco 16.000lbs front driving axle so no gold bulldog there. but thanks for article pretty cool tractor AND COE smh love it!!!!

is that possible did Mack ever manufacture a front drive steer axle? or did they just always use fabco, rockwell and the such others manufactures??