E7 Mechanical Stumbling & White Smoke Intermittently

[JoeH]

Yea, modern diesel is "bio" and grows stuff pretty quick. They make an algicide fuel treatment that will kill stuff, but won't break it down. Our front end loader sat for 6 months once while we pulled the motor to deal with oil leaks. When we got it back together it kept clogging the strainer in the electric primer pump.

[Salpolit]

Final update:

Ran through everything I could, still having issues. Definitely runs way better the harder you run it and hotter the engine gets. When getting on it, noticing a whitish-gray haze until engine is fully hot.

I did some research and believe the injection timing on the engine is too retarded as I have all the symptoms of that. Is there any way to advance the timing a degree or two without the Kent-Moore timing light tool?

[Joey Mack]

I have only ever used the kent-moore tool..  however, i was told that you can look inside the hole and line the marks up and it will be timed..  Maybe someone will add to what I wrote..  I personally am not comfortable doing that.  I happen to own a timing tool, and know how to use it..  Jojo   

[fjh]

On 11/7/2023 at 1:04 PM, Salpolit said:

Final update:

Ran through everything I could, still having issues. Definitely runs way better the harder you run it and hotter the engine gets. When getting on it, noticing a whitish-gray haze until engine is fully hot.

I did some research and believe the injection timing on the engine is too retarded as I have all the symptoms of that. Is there any way to advance the timing a degree or two without the Kent-Moore timing light tool?

Yes! this here is a get by ! if you don't got the tool Joey has there!  Remove the plug in front of the throttle and below the stop  that's where the timing tool fits turn the engine to where its to be timed to example 17 or 19 there should be what looks like a flat blade screw driver DEAD CENTER in that hole! If its not there or not centered is  either on number six or its out of time! Set it  so the spade is centered in the hole remove the front cover and loosen the 4 bolts on the slotted gear  turn the engine to on mark you want to time it to confirm the slot has not moved after you move  the engine on its timing mark tighten the bolts and try it see if you have achieved your goal engine timing is usually marked on the valve cover and the marks are on the flywheel center bottom! and note if you have a 5.9 Cummins with this pump on it the set is very similar. Also note that We have run into a situation where by the spade has slipped on the pump cam ! this becomes a little bit of a pain but can be over come by a different method so for now go with the spade in the hole method! and advance the timing two or three degrees at a time! A bit time consuming But doable!

[Joey Mack]

I knew someone would clarify this..  Salpolit,,,,  Meet FJH... 

[JoeH]

My dad times the old ENDT676 motors with a snow plow pump.  Helped him do it once a few years ago, dont know what the process is for the E7. Fill the plow pump with diesel, hook it up to the injection pump.  I think the plow pump relief valve needs to be set to around 700psi.  The book says to use some special pump to do this process, so he just used a plow pump because that's what he had.

[fjh]

19 hours ago, JoeH said:

My dad times the old ENDT676 motors with a snow plow pump.  Helped him do it once a few years ago, dont know what the process is for the E7. Fill the plow pump with diesel, hook it up to the injection pump.  I think the plow pump relief valve needs to be set to around 700psi.  The book says to use some special pump to do this process, so he just used a plow pump because that's what he had.

That is called flow timing and is the optimal way to time it it flows till it stops that is port closing ready to inject! if you don’t got stuff to work with the above is the next best option!

[Joey Mack]

I really wish I knew how to ''flow-time''..  I read about how to do it, and I have a svc. manual that shows how..  I always thought that you needed a pump that can produce 400+ PSI..  Am I mistaken? 

[fjh]

The goal is to deliver enough pressure to lift the delivery valves not sure of the pressure Joey!  It’s abit time consuming as you need to cap off the return lines !

[Joey Mack]

Thanks bud..  I am weak on that knowledge, mostly because the Bulk of my knowledge is E-7 and E-Tech's..  and as you know I have the timing tool for the Robert Bosch pumps,,,,   and E-Tech's  are,,, well,,,  E-Tech's...  the few other diesels I built had timing marks and windows in the Inj. pump, to set to a certain degree..  ie: the John Deere 3179's I built and an Isuzu 4 cyl.  4HE1...  Jojo

Edited November 10, 2023 by Joey Mack
Pour sperring

[mechohaulic]

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I really wish I knew how to ''flow-time''..  I read about how to do it, and I have a svc. manual that shows how..  I always thought that you needed a pump that can produce 400+ PSI..  Am I mistaken? 

in the good days it was the ONLY way. boy how i miss those days and glad I'm out of circulation today,  gotta go think jack Daniels has taken over the mind set.

[mechohaulic]

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Thanks bud..  I am weak on that knowledge, mostly because the Bulk of my knowledge is E-7 and E-Tech's..  and as you know I have the timing tool for the Robert Bosch pumps,,,,   and E-Tech's  are,,, well,,,  E-Tech's...  the few other diesels I built had timing marks and windows in the Inj. pump, to set to a certain degree..  ie: the John Deere 3179's I built and an Isuzu 4 cyl.  4HE1...  Jojo

Your NOT weak on that knowledge Jojo ;; you haven't got to that chapter yet.  trudge on  YOU CAN do it. 

[mechohaulic]

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I really wish I knew how to ''flow-time''..  I read about how to do it, and I have a svc. manual that shows how..  I always thought that you needed a pump that can produce 400+ PSI..  Am I mistaken? 

I have an 1 1/4 box wrench with slot cut in it to loosen the valve body on pump. hand pump  going to watch fuel flow till it stops. among the many things confusing me today is the new designations of E-6/7 /8 /9 whatever.  a 237/ 675/688 were just that.  word of caution to you "young folk" when you are over the hill and turn around the hill is very Fu-- in high.

[mechohaulic]

Jojo will sent you the wrench and stuff. my days of using are over. talk soon = hope.

[fjh]

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Thanks bud..  I am weak on that knowledge, mostly because the Bulk of my knowledge is E-7 and E-Tech's..  and as you know I have the timing tool for the Robert Bosch pumps,,,,   and E-Tech's  are,,, well,,,  E-Tech's...  the few other diesels I built had timing marks and windows in the Inj. pump, to set to a certain degree..  ie: the John Deere 3179's I built and an Isuzu 4 cyl.  4HE1...  Jojo

I much rather have the light set up its so much quicker ! And more accurate ! That said if your in a situation where the tone ring in the pump has moved. pressure timing is the best second method ! I have also used a drop of fuel on number one delivery valve to get it close on  one occasion due to a slipped  tone ring! and know flow timer available!  you have to have a keen eye for that one put your glasses on! 🙄 Got to do what you got to do!

[Salpolit]

@fjh had the solution! Checked timing using a boroscope in the test port on the injection pump, found it to be 3 degrees. Engine called for 9.5 degrees, set it to that and the truck runs like new!

I appreciate all the help and diagnosis from everyone, just happy to finally have the old dog running good again

[fjh]

5 hours ago, Salpolit said:

@fjh had the solution! Checked timing using a boroscope in the test port on the injection pump, found it to be 3 degrees. Engine called for 9.5 degrees, set it to that and the truck runs like new!

I appreciate all the help and diagnosis from everyone, just happy to finally have the old dog running good again

👍 happy to help!