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B model 673 oil filter housing swap


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If I may ask? what is the purpose of the shut off valve on lower side of oil filter?? easier access to drain  the oil ???  can't clearly see in picture other side of shut off valve . the bottom 3/8 pipe plug drain wasn't the best for draining the canister.

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I’m changing to a spin on filter because I always have to wait for the oil pressure to build when I start it seems like the housing is always dry when I removed it not much oil came out I’ll see if this helps . Also when I removed the plate off of the block I removed the spring and plunger the spring was stuck in the plug when I removed it a bunch of nuts fell out what I can tell somone used the wrong plug witch if the spring didn’t fit right and there would be no spring pressure so I remover the nuts and put in a spacer to put the spring slightly spaced into the plug

If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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I swapped mine out years back, but I was lucky to find an R model with a 711 set up for a motor with NO oil cooler.  Bolted right on.  Hens teeth today.

SDC10855.jpg

 

I had messed with my full flow so many times trying to get the check valve to hold oil in the case so it wouldn't take 30 seconds to get oil pressure.  It would be okay for maybe 1-2 starts, then back to 30 seconds.  Never seemed to hurt anything, but just didn't like it, like I'm sure you don't.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Your right Larry I was reading all your old posts about it and it’s so hard to find the older parts mine was just like yours a good 25 seconds to get oil pressure I didn’t like that I let it sit a day and had oil pressure in a few seconds the housing has I bypass built in so it will divert around the filter if it’s plugged or reall cold oil so I figured I’m safe with that . I’ll paint it all up to match the engine paint that yellow filter gray and it will be good as new

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If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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Yeah, the old Oil Clarifiers tended to have issues with the check valves that would cause them to drain when not running.  They were great when they worked...having the full flow and the bypass circuits in one unit.

Looking forward to seeing yours finished.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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1 hour ago, Mean Green said:

Well it’s all finished just have to put some paint on it takes up less space lolIMG_3625.thumb.jpeg.956cc05ed3022ced4d9e57ee1b5d7471.jpeg

looking at the picture , should the intake hoses be loosen up to take the twist/ strain on lower hose going into manifold ??? I would try to loosen and turn top hose toward engine front: might straighten lower hose. 

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Thanks mechohaulic I’m happy with it I’m just glad it has oil pressure when I start it . That hose is like that cause the pipe is round but the intake manifold port is some what oval so it distorts the rubber and it’s 2 different sizes so there is a step in the rubber there . It has the crimped together manifold not tahr cast one cause I added the turbo 

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If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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I know it’s not original but finding original parts is getting tough so I figure if I can put new parts that are available and they work I try it out my next project is trying to find a freight liner fld or super liner axle with budd or hub pilot wheels to put under the front but I haven had much luck and what I have found is a little out of my price range for something I take to car shows

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If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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DCW no I didnt I just have pump supply in and clean oil out my original by pass way the tiny line to dump back to pan this filter housing has a spring and plunger in it so if the filter plugs or oil is cold it will go around filter and still supply engine with oil I  figure dirty oil is better than no oil 

If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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2 hours ago, Mean Green said:

Thanks mechohaulic I’m happy with it I’m just glad it has oil pressure when I start it . That hose is like that cause the pipe is round but the intake manifold port is some what oval so it distorts the rubber and it’s 2 different sizes so there is a step in the rubber there . It has the crimped together manifold not tahr cast one cause I added the turbo 

see the manifold type now, forgot the oval inlet style. it works that's what counts

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12 hours ago, Mean Green said:

DCW no I didnt I just have pump supply in and clean oil out my original by pass way the tiny line to dump back to pan this filter housing has a spring and plunger in it so if the filter plugs or oil is cold it will go around filter and still supply engine with oil I  figure dirty oil is better than no oil 

You got the most important part!

Looks nice. 

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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