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THANKS for help, but didnt solve problem, went baught a 500$ lift pump at MACK dealer in Spokane, put on last night.loaded this morning drove from PRIEST River Idaho to Chelan WAsh. approx .250 miles every thing was fine tell i headed home , By the time I got back to yard it had pumped approx a gallon and 1/2 fuel in crank case i have dumped oil 3 time approx 600 $ of 15/40 down the drain. the engine also seemed to want to sputter  at times coming back.  Some local mech. at the mack dealer in Mazzulla montana  said there was a screwed plug in the front of the engine behind the accessory cover could be leaking? any body ever hear of that..what type die do you put in the fuel to test for leaks by taking pan off,and pressurizing sys.. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou  Dave

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you dont need dye.  this is a process...   you need to cap the output of the primary filter hose , and the fuel inlet to the block, below cyl. #3, and the the outlet below cyl. #5.  this will isolate the 2 fuel galleries.  then remove the 1/4" plug with a quarter drive ratchet. the plug is the visible one behind the overboard breather canister..   the hidden one is real, it is behind the timing cover. when you find the plug I mention, right below it is a hump in the timing cover..   the return gallery plug is there..   we wont go there right now..    since you will be dropping the pan to look...  remove the overboard breather to give you room to work.  rig up a fitting that lets you put air pressure to the galleries.  it's 1/4 npt...  50-70 PSI should be enough..  dont go nuts on pressure...   do not pull the EUP's ..  apply air pressure and look up for bubbles and hissing..  it will be hard to see if the lower plug behind the timing cover is leaking, but you may be able to hear it through the breather hole.  if you have a bore scope you can try to look in there to see..  honestly..  I never see that plug leak, but ...   there is always the first one somewhere...   I expect more guys posting their knowledge on this...   jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
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11 hours ago, Rurey logging said:

THANKYOU VERY MUCH< WILL TRY THIS < let you no what we find👍

 Im very concerned here that you may have a restriction in the return line! Once you establish where the fuel is coming from as joe has  explained there   And IF its coming from the fuel pump Again I You need to be checking the return line for a restriction replace the drain back valve and check the fuel pressure to be sure its not going to much  over 80 psi!   also make sure the return line is clear just my opinion! If the pump has failed there may be a reason !

Just sayin!

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Well it happened... I said that I never see the hidden plug leaking....  well the E-tech I'm building, was the one...  I put the 1/4" ratchet on it and the weight of my baby ratchet was enough to turn the plug..   So I found how fuel got into this engine...   jojo

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Dear guys we pressurized the system, no leakage any where at 70 lbs of pressure, at 75 lbs # 4 &6 EUP started to drip slightly. but not enough to put a gallon 1/2 in 2 1/2 hours in pan....QUESTION,  is it possible that the plungers in the EUPS are leaking. there isnt any way of testing them .??? WHAT now? your thoughts. THERE is 350,000 miles on an inframe on the engine,dont no how many EUPs.... 

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WELL guys, we found a real bad problem,Number 4 EUP distroyed its self the guide pin broke  allowing roller to move on cam thus eating the lobe off the cam . now that does not tell use where fuel was coming from , unless #4 eup plunger went bad, there was a slight amount of leakage from number 4 when pressurized, not very much but some !! need a cam now, any body got a spare 460 cam laying around ?  thankS for your help ...RANDY Rurey

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Sorry to hear about that, id imagine that was your culprit and the leak was pry much worse under load perhaps. Let us know how you make out. This one has my curiosity. Good luck!

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I forget if I asked.... did you check fuel pressure with a gauge before any diss assembly? The E-Tech I am currently building had 125 PSI...  I used a brand new gauge..  I replaced the pressure regulator, and it was at 70PSI, but the damage was already done..  I like to know what caused the issue, one step at a time..   doing 2 or more replacements, doesnt tell me what caused the issue..  Just sayin,   I do understand trying to hustle to get it fixed...  (Catch 22)..  sorry bud... as far as the EUP cutting loose,,,  it can certainly put fuel into the crankcase if it caused the EUP to loosen, usually a broken bolt is present..  were the EUP's removed recently?  and maybe not torqued down properly? I ask lots of questions.. jojo

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Dear Joey no the pressure from booster pp was never checked,because we were told by mech. at several mack dealers that booster pp do not cause problem and they dont leak from the seals, so when we found out that was not true,just went and replaced it. But that wasnt the problem.YOU talk about a pressure regulator, where is that located?. yes the eups where all removed and the oring replaced twice but didnt pull the roller tapits.  bad mistake.. allso missed oil sample being taken for several months. no broken bolts found, all bolts were torqued to  lates spec. we still dont no where the fuel was coming from ? WHAT should the pressure be?..  Oh another problem, how the heck do you get the viberation damper and pulley off crank? done every thing book said ,dosent buge, cant find any way to put a puller on it,, tried putting a couple of falling wedges behind it  and use a Big Fing hammer to no avail ..

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on the dampener,  remove the small bolts and the big one in the middle and use a bar puller to pull the whole thing off.  then you can soak it or if you need too,  gently heat the center ring of the pully, to get it off, then do the same for the dampener..  try to avoid denting or warping the dampener..  sorry, budd..  no magic here, just patience... jojo

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i forgot to add this,,  you can put a 9/16" deep impact socket inside the end of the crank shaft. this will protect the threads from the jack screw on the puller..  I have an old crank bolt that I cut the head off of, and cut a slot into it, as well as drilling onto the center of it with a 1/4" bit, so that the puller jack screw has a good bite and wont walk away when cranking the jack screw..  jojo

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11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

on the dampener,  remove the small bolts and the big one in the middle and use a bar puller to pull the whole thing off.  then you can soak it or if you need too,  gently heat the center ring of the pully, to get it off, then do the same for the dampener..  try to avoid denting or warping the dampener..  sorry, budd..  no magic here, just patience... jojo

Yup don't go beating on the damper with a hammer surefire way to ruin it! just remove two opposing bolts  install a puller and jack off a socket or sawed off piece of bolt that will fit inside the hole! you may have to apply a little heat around the hub area! Ive seen these real tight and sort of loose and anywhere in between! joes heading you in the right direction!

Edited by fjh
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THanks again , we finally got damper off with the help  of a 1inch impact wrench,,now trying to get cam out fun fun i made a bunch of  pvc  pipes 15 inches long with cow magnets in the end, trying to hold lifter up,hope it works !!!  any suggestions ?? mack book says turn engine  upside down,   not hardly practical...

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I use homemade lifter sticks as well...  I have good results..  Where I get Anal, is when I put new ceramic lifters in, and have to load a new cam..  I only do 2 lifters at a time, and slowly walk  the cam in...  Do you have the 'cam shoe' that makes this job a ton easier, and it also insures that you dont gouge the new cam bushings..  keep in touch on the cam job,  myself and a few others will guide you..   please buy the cam shoe tool, number: J-41682...   E-tech - ASET cam shoe.. jojo

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Mack used to sell a magnet kit to hold the lifters up. That's what I have and they are priceless! Not sure they are still available. And the cam shoe is also well worth the money. No more having an assistant under the engine with a wooden handle to help guide it in. 

Make sure you reseal that fuel plug while you're there with the front cover off! I've seen many leak. 

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steeler, I just found the hidden fuel plug loose on the E-Tech  just built..  You nailed that one..   and yes the tools are priceless... jojo

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