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AC 427 Seized VGT.


Flat Work

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So I took my new (to me) '04 CX 613 Vision in for some work. AC 427 engine. It's throwing a code indicating a seized vgt. The turbo is working. And while accelerating, the lightning bolt on the dash will go out when you get the turbo spooling nice and fast, then comes back on when you let back off the throttle. And it stays on during steady cruising speed. Sometimes, the engine seems a little sluggish, until it hits around 1800 rpms, and you can feel it (kick in). Almost like its hit a different power band.

The dealership's solution is to replace the turbo. The price of the turbo from them is $6000.00. Michigan Turbo can get me a new one, 2 year warranty, no core charge, for $2800.00. Or, a rebuild direct from Borg Warner for $2100.00 exchange. With a 1 year warranty. The mechanic at the dealer says the computer does not need to be flashed, or anything like that. So changing it myself is an option. Which is what I would do. None of the turbo shops will rebuild it for me. Neither will Borg Warner.

So I guess my question is: has anyone had this problem, and found a way to get it working again? Can you spray the Hell out of it anywhere with penetrating oil, or something like that? I have not taken a deep look at the turbo to see just exactly how it works. I understand the concept of a variable A/R. I just haven't seen the exact mechanics of it.

Like I said, the turbo is working. It spools right along with the throttle with almost no turbo lag. But I haven't put a load on the truck yet, and probably won't until spring. I am considering putting a boost gauge on it, and getting an idea of what kind of pressure it's making.

Any home remedies here would be greatly appreciated.

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You can give the wd forty penetrating oil thing. it is possible to to free up by removing the pin from the actuator and put needle nose Vice grips on the lever and try and get it working back and forth to free it up IF you do have to go that route and it works out for you. you may need to go back to the dealer to calibrate the vgt How ever  if this don't work for ya  In my opinion your best to go the two year warrenty route install the turbo your self its a heavy lump by the way! You still are well advised to take it to the dealer recalibrate it!

Just my to cents

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  • 2 weeks later...

You have to first check where is a problem, it can be the pin at rod connection or actuator inside. Seen a problem like that and solved easy with pneumatic tool oil. I opened the air line on actuator and putt some lubricant in. Than I manually (using a wrench) pull on the actuator rod couple times. It was about 7 months ago that driver didn't complain yet. I'm just trying to give you idea. There should be air drier filter for VGT that people don't like to change and to much moisture damage control box or actuator cylinder 

actuator and sensor itself cost about $1400

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  • 2 weeks later...
38 minutes ago, terry said:

Nice to get lucky and have it something simple !    terry:D

Yeah. Let's hope it stays working. What I think the problem was is that the assembly that rotates the vanes inside the turbo was sticking. The tech at the dealership said he played with it a little bit, and that the actuator piston seemed to be working. My theory (and I could be just as wrong as possible) is that the rotating assembly that works the vanes was carboned up. Although the truck has relatively low miles (343,xxx), it has almost 15,000 hours. The truck was used in the oil fields to run a blower to unload incoming pneumatic trailers full of fracking sand. It basically spent most of its time the last few years (according to the previous owner) going between idle and 1100-1200 rpm's to run the pto.  It seemed the more I ran it at road speed, and spooling the turbo up, the more it wanted to start working.

I've yet to put the truck to work. And probably won't do so for another couple of months. I still have a few things I need to do. Like fix a leaking heater core in the sleeper. And I'm going to post on that separately. I've also got to get a properly sized wet kit on it. I was able to sell the blower to a guy in the North Dakota oil fields. And I got really lucky that he didn't need the pto because he's running 9 Pete 379's with 18 speed trannys.  Which all of that is brand new. I don't know why, but the previous owner had it ALL replaced: the unit itself at the trans, the pto shaft, and the tower in the cab. Everything.  The unit will need to move enough fluid to operate the long cylinders on a sliding-axle trailer, and the motor on a 20,000 pound winch.

I'm slowly getting her all ready to work. I have more questions on some things I need to fix yet. But I'm getting down to all small things now. At least I hope!  I'll try to get some pics of it up soon.

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If you have problems with the actuator again, you might see if you can buy just the actuator alone. I had similar problems with a 2003 VW TDI, actuator completely rusted up when I parked it during a humid July. Got it loose with penetrating oil, but still went into limp mode and threw a code once in awhile. VW only supplies the actuator with the turbo, but I found a supplier that sells the actuator alone and just installed it... The power is back, and no codes!

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On 2/19/2017 at 5:03 AM, Flat Work said:

Sorry, I've been swamped the last week or so. 

I've got it working.  I took it for a drive the other day, and noticed as the truck hit about 1700-1800 rpm's,  the boost would really come up, and the lightning bolt on the dash would go off. But it would come back on when the engine speed would lower back down. I actually just used a pry bar where the actuator rod connected to the vane control, and pry it up and down, until it moved freely.  And sprayed it with some of grandpa's secret penetrating oil. Its working fine now. And its not throwing a code anymore.

If your by a dealer at some point You may want to stop by and have em calibrate the VGT It may have picked up some bad habits!

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