jamesjr Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 i recently bought a 96 CH613 . The truck was running great when i got it, and it started acting crazy. It got to the point where if it sat up for a few days it will be hard to crank. On yesterday it started white smoking and now it will not crank. So far this is what i tried, the lift pump keeps fuel up to the injector pump, took all the hoses of going and coming to pump no leaks, the small line going up to the head is new. I also broke all the lines coming from the injector pump and nothing is coming out. Truck will start with ether and run well. can someone please shed the light on me. I really need this truck going. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Truck has the E7 350 in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 If it will crank like it will not turn over or want start?If it turns over good and starts on starting fuild then you may have a drain back of fuel or low voltage to the ecm if its a Vmac.Either thing is not easy to find .If the starter is pulling too much amperage or the battery is weak it can have low volts. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) Turn the key on there should be and orange light come on and go out! If the orange light comes on and stays on you have an electric malfunction! If there is no orange light you need to fix it because you have to pull the blink codes for us to help! Edited August 31, 2016 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 V-MAC & V-MAC II Using Electronic Malfunction Lamp The V-MAC module can blink a two-digit blink code for each of the detectable active faults in the system. These codes are displayed by the instrument panel MIL. They allow for quick diagnosis without using a scan tool. If there is more than one active fault there is often one root cause. As a general rule, begin with active faults that involve sensors. To diagnose malfunctions with blink codes, proceed as follows: Turn ignition On, then wait until MIL’s two second power-up test has finished. There must be an active fault which keeps lamp on after power-up test. Turn speed control switch Off, then press and hold SET/DECEL or RESUME/ACCEL switch until MIL goes out. After approximately one second, the V-MAC module will begin blinking out its two-digit blink codes. The two digits of each code will be separated by a one second idle time (MIL out). Each blink code digit may consist of up to eight on–off flashes. The on and off time for each flash will be 1/4 of a second. Count the MIL on flashes to determine two digit blink code. Only one active fault will be blinked per request. There must be a separate request for each active fault if there are multiple active faults present. To display additional faults, hold in SET/DECEL or RESUME/ACCEL switch until MIL goes out. Blinking sequence will begin again after a one second delay. If fault blinking request is repeated while V-MAC is in process of blinking an active fault, that sequence will stop and next active fault will display. If an active fault is cleared while V-MAC is blinking that fault, procedure will not stop. MIL will return to normal functions after every complete blinking sequence and will remain on for active faults and off for inactive faults. If more than one fault is present, continue blink code sequence until first active fault is displayed again to ensure all faults have been accessed. Using Scan Tool Connect a suitable scan tool to the 6-pin DLC, located under the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Follow tool manufacturer’s instructions to access fault codes. If there is more than one active fault there is often one root cause. As a general rule, begin with active faults that involve sensors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mackpro Posted August 31, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted August 31, 2016 I have had several trucks that would start on starting fulid and run fine and make you think it was a fuel bleed back issue. However it was the starter drawing to many volts/amps, and pulling power away from the ECM. What was funny was the starter turned over and sounded fine. Hook a volt meter to the big solinoid in the fuse box and crank the engine and see how low it gets. If below 9-10 vots this could be your problem. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 scanned the truck this morning and no codes are present. before i went any further i cracked all the lines going to the injectors and i didnt have any fuel up there. replaced the primer pump on the injector pump and now i have fuel. Ok next we pulled the manifold and tried it thinking 1 injector could be bad but im getting white smoke on all cylinders. had a friend if mines come by and he checked the compression good there. so my next step is injector pump. he had 1 at his shop so we're going to try this in the morning. Or what else could be the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Try unpluging and replugging the big round plug at the fuel pump do it half a dozen times see it will light off after that! the pins in that plug give greif from time to time! The injection pump is suspect but the pung can also cause problems! Edited September 1, 2016 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 ok guys here's what i have done so far. the last thing worked for about 3 hours. replaced fuel pump. replace all fuel lines, same thing, pulled valve covers removed the injectors and cleaned the nozzles. truck cranked and ran fine. drove it for a few hours cut it off and bomb. problem back again. we pulled the covers again and removed the injectors and the lines, cleaned everything real good. now the orings on the injectors were new, we may have pinched a few of them. Whats a good way to avoid this again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 ok guys im still in need of help here. injector pump is fine, new nozzles, no codes present. I have spent tones of money on this truck and haven't had any luck with it. Im tired of it already, someone please tell me what to do. Im about ready to sell it and buy something else. Problem again is truck white smokes and will not start. Im well over 15 grand in this truck and its costing me money everyday its down. Any help is greatly appreciated........ Does anybody have a diagram on the timimg marks for the injection pump? Valve cover says 5* btc and if im correct i have it on 1&6 valve 5* btc and the little blade on the pump center of the whole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 when on 1-6 did you check to see if the rocker arms on #1 were loose and # 6 tight ? or in overlap (exhaust closing intake opening) also when rotating the engine over did you go in the direction of normal crank shaft rotation? (I've seen guys go either the wrong way or over shoot the timing mark and back the engine up (against normal rotation) the backlash in the timing gears will cause the pump timing to be too far off and cause either a no fire or a very smoky low power performing engine. if you had the engine on #6 instead of #1 the pump timing is 180 degrees out and the engine will only roll white smoke but will fire on either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 (edited) 14 minutes ago, gearhead204 said: when on 1-6 did you check to see if the rocker arms on #1 were loose and # 6 tight ? or in overlap (exhaust closing intake opening) also when rotating the engine over did you go in the direction of normal crank shaft rotation? (I've seen guys go either the wrong way or over shoot the timing mark and back the engine up (against normal rotation) the backlash in the timing gears will cause the pump timing to be too far off and cause either a no fire or a very smoky low power performing engine. if you had the engine on #6 instead of #1 the pump timing is 180 degrees out and the engine will only roll white smoke but will fire on either. Amen Bro you need to follow the above advice! Pull the front valve cover and look! get slack on both valves then you know your on number 1! then roll it back a ways then come back up in engine rotation to your target 5 Degrees the spade needs to be DEAD CENTER in the hole on the pump in should start and run but will be SMOKEY as soon as the oil pressure comes up the timing should advance to around 12 degrees If it doesn't clean up there is something wrong with the timing advance! Edited September 23, 2016 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 Ok guys I have done this a few times. But let me tell you exactly what has been done. Truck has a new fuel pump on it. I also replaced the vmac assembly in front of the pump. Now after all this the truck did crank and run but now it's back to this all over again. I'm in this truck over 20 grand and I'm really starting to hate a mack. This thing is a money pit with no bottom. I'm tired of throwing money at it. New nozzles, pump, vmac assembly, diagnostic, fuel lines, time. I'm just plain out tired. Truck ran fine Monday tried it today white smoke not trying to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesjr Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 If by chance anyone of you would like to buy it I'm willing to take a loss. It's a 1996 mack ch613 with a e7 350. If the price is right in will give you the spare engine I bought to go with it. Paid 4500 for the engine. Gave 13500 for truck. Make an offer get them both. Engine has 200k still in the truck and I will pull it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quantum Bulldog Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Just wondering any update to your truck. If truck is smoking white. Try to pull out the both relay for engine brake and see if any changes will happen sometimes sticking relay will cause this problem. hope it will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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