skip Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Gday everyone. This may seem a stupid question but in your experiences, what is the best way to remove and refit an R model cab? Would you use a large beam through the doors an sling the ends of it? Thanks for any help. Skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Gday everyone. This may seem a stupid question but in your experiences, what is the best way to remove and refit an R model cab? Would you use a large beam through the doors an sling the ends of it? Thanks for any help. SkipYou are correct Skip. Do not just place a sling through the door openings and hoist it up without a spreader bar. The roof and drip rails will buckle inward a bit from the weight if you do not use a spreader to keep the lifting force verticle.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky698 Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi, I left doors shut an used a forklift with slippers through doors, the cab i am rebuilding doesnt even have a roof on it and it didnt move, the put it on a pallet.pics in album.Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi, I left doors shut an used a forklift with slippers through doors, the cab i am rebuilding doesnt even have a roof on it and it didnt move, the put it on a pallet.pics in album.GrantHi Grant, I have three R cabs in the shop that have been changed. All are bent in the roof skin/drip rails attributed to lifting with a sling from a single lifting point. All cabs were fully dressed, (complete) when they were done, (not by me) and I get to repair them which is relatively easy and pays well.RobOn a side note: What type of voltages and frequency do you folks run down under? Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky698 Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi Grant, I have three R cabs in the shop that have been changed. All are bent in the roof skin/drip rails attributed to lifting with a sling from a single lifting point. All cabs were fully dressed, (complete) when they were done, (not by me) and I get to repair them which is relatively easy and pays well.RobOn a side note: What type of voltages and frequency do you folks run down under?Hi, maybe they need to be more gentle with fork lift? this thing was a complete rusty cab the doors took the weight. it came off ok, poor thing.we use 250volt in houses, 3 phase in industrial, and 12volt in most trucks an cars, euro stuff like volvo is 24 volt.Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Hi, maybe they need to be more gentle with fork lift? this thing was a complete rusty cab the doors took the weight. it came off ok, poor thing.we use 250volt in houses, 3 phase in industrial, and 12volt in most trucks an cars, euro stuff like volvo is 24 volt.GrantThe cabs that I have are bent because of the persons pulling them tried to keep their forks as close to the top as possible. If they would have used longer straps through the doorways there would have been a lot less compression force through the roof and drip rails. Of course they would have needed a lot more lifting height to clear the frame and transmission. That is the purpose of the spreader bar. One of the cabs was lifted off with a chain so you can imagine the damage to it! Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 We use a beam with sliding "pockets" on top that adjust to width of the cab. Pick from the door frame with the doors open and as close to the front as possible. This is how the cabs are set in place at the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky698 Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The cabs that I have are bent because of the persons pulling them tried to keep their forks as close to the top as possible. If they would have used longer straps through the doorways there would have been a lot less compression force through the roof and drip rails. Of course they would have needed a lot more lifting height to clear the frame and transmission. That is the purpose of the spreader bar. One of the cabs was lifted off with a chain so you can imagine the damage to it! Robi put the forks through the closed doors, seem to work ok.... when you actually undo ALL the lines also i orderd a cab rust section today, um its coming from USA i wouldnt be surprised if al the parts are still available there. Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I have seen the door bent up by going through the window opening, open the door or take it off and use the door opening. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky698 Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I have seen the door bent up by going through the window opening, open the door or take it off and use the door opening. Terry\\I had both forks in there with wide slippers, maybe i was just lucky? Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 \\I had both forks in there with wide slippers, maybe i was just lucky? GrantI don't think you were lucky Grant. Your cab was lightened up by rust and lack of remaining steel! Air really is quite light in comparison to steel! LOL!!!Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky698 Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I don't think you were lucky Grant. Your cab was lightened up by rust and lack of remaining steel! Air really is quite light in comparison to steel! LOL!!!RobTrue, i was more worried about it collapseing than anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 True, i was more worried about it collapseing than anything. Ya done well. When you go to reinstall the "rebuilt cab" a lot of weight can be saved if the doors are not installed. I like to build empty cabs on the floor or dolly as it takes many, many trips up the steps to install the interior when the cab is on the frame. It is so much easier on the body, (mine) to not have to climb to install parts! Back when I was 150 pounds less, it didn't much matter as I had a much easier time just moving around.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldoggin' Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 We just shut the doors,and run a wide strap through the door ,and use a excavator too pick up and move it around, ain"t damaged one yet!!! Quote KEEP THE BLACK SMOKE ROLLIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skip Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 We just shut the doors,and run a wide strap through the door ,and use a excavator too pick up and move it around, ain"t damaged one yet!!!Gday all. Sorry i havent been about for a couple of days. Thanks to everyone who wrote back, it gives me some pretty good ides to go on with. Keep on truckin eveyone, cheers. Skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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