hatcity Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Had to replace the u-joint on the rear. Straps came off with some persuasion.While trying to free the caps, the cap actually broke off. Half a can of PB Blaster and a BFH and they are still stuck.Any tips or hints. Will have pics of the joint-baaaad Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidniteMechanic Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Assuming you removed all attaching hardware, torch the cross out and try a air hammer to push the caps out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Another good way i have used for any years. Lift up on the drive shaft with a jack like a old railroad jake but dont bend the shaft. Now with a good air hammer like a snapon hammer down on the yoke on the rear end or trans. This will using the pressure of the drive line drive the cup upwards. Or you can let the weight of the drive line hang down against the cup that will not come out and with the air hammer hammer up on the yoke next to the cap on the drive line. You are using the weight of the drive line to work for you. And the air hammer can beat fast harder and longer than you can and dont get tired. Ever time the air hammer hits the cup and yoke it sucks some of the pb blaster down in there.This will not get all out but most. If you ant got a good air hammer then forget this.I like the snapon because its the hardest i have found. I have had to get some one else with theirs on a project with me to help out.I think that the reason i cant hear good now.But the torch will work ever time. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidniteMechanic Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yea, I forgot about that way. If theres room and your good placing hits, you can sledge on the yoke while the driveshaft is jacked up. I've gotten so used to using a u-joint puller, I've put those miserable memories out of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yea, I forgot about that way. If theres room and your good placing hits, you can sledge on the yoke while the driveshaft is jacked up. I've gotten so used to using a u-joint puller, I've put those miserable memories out of mind."Momma" got me a full set of "Tiger Tool" U-joint pullers and man do they work slick. Remove the retainers, set the puller, tighten it down with an impact and no damage to parts. Goes back together just as easy too.I tried the OTC branded tool and didn't like it. "Tiger Tool" I think is the best out there.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhasler Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 "Momma" got me a full set of "Tiger Tool" U-joint pullers and man do they work slick. Remove the retainers, set the puller, tighten it down with an impact and no damage to parts. Goes back together just as easy too.I tried the OTC branded tool and didn't like it. "Tiger Tool" I think is the best out there.RobI'll second that opinion. I've always had good luck with a slotted cross bar puller and step plate in this type of situation (when the top is broken off of the bearing cap). Quote "Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatcity Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Can't understand what caused all the vibration.As you can see, grease was getting in. But just some of it.hadn't taken grease in a long time. Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 yep seen that happen on my truck but my joints were taking grease so I thought they were ok. Then one day I went to the pit to get a load of sand. pulled up on the scale and could hear a creaking sound. Got off the scale and felt the u joint and it was hot to the touch. Drove it nice and slow to the yard 5 miles away. it was smoking hot by now. but that helped push it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 What's all the fuss??? Just turn the joint 90 degrees and reinstall for another jillion trouble free miles.See, the fix was easy.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatcity Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 I haven't tossed it yet Rob. I can send it to you so you can reuse.Small shipping fee required Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 I haven't tossed it yet Rob. I can send it to you so you can reuse.Small shipping fee requiredIt's already taken a "set" to your truck. If it were reinstalled into any other driveline it would fail prematurely. Save yourself the grief with the cost of replacement and shipping costs with the prudent reuse of the product in your application. It's the green thing to do.Sides that, I don't know of any broke down Peterbilts right now that could use this part but haven't heard from anybody, so definately a possibility; or should I say probability. Pride precludes communication ya know as the constant drone of "I told you so" wears one down.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatcity Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 It's already taken a "set" to your truck. If it were reinstalled into any other driveline it would fail prematurely. Save yourself the grief with the cost of replacement and shipping costs with the prudent reuse of the product in your application. It's the green thing to do.Sides that, I don't know of any broke down Peterbilts right now that could use this part but haven't heard from anybody, so definately a possibility; or should I say probability. Pride precludes communication ya know as the constant drone of "I told you so" wears one down.RobAlright then. I will hold onto them until a certain penisbilt driver re-appears. OR, maybe ship them to where he's broke down at. Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bollweevil Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Can't understand what caused all the vibration.As you can see, grease was getting in. But just some of it.hadn't taken grease in a long time. Years ago, I had replaced a U joint with a no name bargain joint. It failed after a couple of month's, threw a shaft, wiped out a front diff yoke, and left me stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night. When I got the thing apart, I discovered that one side of the cross had never been drilled, no way it could take grease. Since then I have never used anything but a Spicer joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Years ago, I had replaced a U joint with a no name bargain joint. It failed after a couple of month's, threw a shaft, wiped out a front diff yoke, and left me stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night. When I got the thing apart, I discovered that one side of the cross had never been drilled, no way it could take grease. Since then I have never used anything but a Spicer joint.I've seen that very same thing in years past but on an automobile replacement joint. I've always pulled the caps to verify there is both a hole through the cross, and a hole with good threads for a zerk so the joint can take grease. I've had really good luck with Neapco brand joints also who manufacturers many of the private branded joints in the aftermarket.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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