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About Truckinjeff

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    Gear Jammer
  • Birthday 03/15/1987

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    Pozzo Mack Dealer Mechanic

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  1. Truckinjeff


    LOL. Just last week a guy came in loaded and asked for a clutch adjustment. So we adjusted his clutch and checked the freeplay. The driver stalled the truck three times before finally getting the idea that he needed to ease off the pedal and creeped it away.........We knew he was starting in too high of a gear. Then we had a guy call in telling us he couldn't turn his truck off, he came to our shop and I went out and pulled the stop knob. He gave me a long blank stare and asked me how I did that. Apparantly that was the first time he drove an older mechanical pump truck.
  2. I'll just warn you now. The book is made to be used with the Vmac III computer diagnostic software (unavailable due to Volvo pushing Premimum Tech Tool which is backwards compatiable but just a pain in the rear to use). You can use a Heavy Duty truck scanner to pull the codes. The trouble with those is it indicates in MID, PID/SID, FMI, they do not indicate by the blink code number. Only the blink code can be retrieved by the computer diagnostic software or by using the malfunction light to flash the code (only works when the code is active). Common Codes you may get and quick checks will probably be: 4-5 VTG position sensor - Make sure the VTG actuator solenoid is getting air (shutoff valve next to the brake valve on the firewall, spin on air filter element next to the oil filters) Also check to make sure the turbo actuator is moving freely on the turbo (Actuator Clevis pin may sometimes bind, internal turbo vane failure) 4-9 EGR valve mechnism - Check the electrical connector at the EGR valve CAREFULLY (The plug may be brittle from all the heat from the exhaust), Look for exhaust leaks on the exhaust manifold and turbocharger, Also check the EGR piping from the valve to the cooler and from the cooler to the intake mixer for leaks. Most commonly this code is set by a clogged EGR cooler. 6-3 J1708 communication - Have fun with that, this fault can occur anywhere in the truck 6-4 J1939 communication - Have more fun with this, this fault can also occur anywhere in the truck. Commonly I've had this fault occur in the engine harness because there are several splices in there that do have tendency to break as the harness ages. 8-1 through 8-6. Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) fault - If you get this fault and your engine has a miss, it is most likely a failed EUP (Dealer should replace the EUP because there is a calibration code on the EUP that needs to be set in the Engine control unit with the computer diagnostic software). If you do not have a miss, its probably a fault in the Engine control unit, Dealer programming updates may be available to correct this. 9-2 Power reset without key switch - Commonly caused by a low or dead battery or by having to jumpstart the truck. Also has been caused by corroded connections at the battery, starter motor, starter solenoid, engine power distribution module (fuse box on firewall), or a loose ground cable. 9-5 Compressor Discharge Temp sensor (temperature sensor on the pipe between the turbo and charge air cooler) - This sensor is a goofy design but pull the silicone tube back to see if the wires have rubbed through. If you can, repair the wire (this sensor is $300+) if you cannot repair, replace the sensor. Make sure to tie the wiring carefully so as to not put strain on the sensor wiring. Also I like to wrap the silicone tube with electrical tape to the connector so that it cannot viabrate and wear through the wires. Good luck and have fun.
  3. The Vmac III engine control specs and troubleshooting for AC engine manual should be number 8-348. There is a revised service manual (July 2006) its number is 8-211 The Aset AC with EGR system engine mechanical service manual should be number 5-111. I found theses numbers on macktrucksemedia.com. I'm still trying to find the number for the electrical diagram of your truck but I may have to pull that off our binder when I'm at work tomorrow.
  4. Are there any other noticable symptoms? Lights appearing dimmer than usual, lights appear to be on when they're not supposed to, flipping a switch causes unintended operation of something else? I've personally never seen anything like this before. I'd check ground connections in the cab and have a look behind the gauge cluster and center switch panel for any wiring or connectors that may look like its rubbed, burned, or corroded. Also try looking at the exterior lights while alternating them between the left and right turn signal to see if there's any abnormal operation. Is this a VMAC II system?
  5. It should be posted on the valve cover serial plate. The intake should be .016 inch and the exhaust should be .024 inch. I just checked in a service manual, some engines have an exhaust valve setting of .028 inch depending on the camshaft but that may have been done in later year engines. Just double check your serial plate to confirm the correct lash setting. You should be able to remove a plate on the bottom of the flywheel housing to see the position pointer. You'll see numbers 1-6 , 2-5 , 3-4 on the flywheel as you turn the engine over. You do not adjust both cylinders at the indicated position, just the one that is on its fire stroke (both valves should feel loose). The companion cylinder will be in overlap (both valves feel tight) do not adjust this valve.
  6. One thing I don't like about the way the CB cable is routed is right at the door loom. It always rubs and leaves exposed wiring as it pulles in and out of the hole. I see so many macks with the CB cable just ran through the door jam and right to the radio because it's a lengthy process to run a new cable through the door and up to the upper mirror mount. Plus the placement of the CB radio mounting must of been a last minute design, I found a lot of drivers complaining of the fuse panel cover making noise from the panel cover rubbing with the weight of the radio on top of it. The only remedy is to pull up the cover and put electrical tape around the ledge to help keep the cover from rubbing.
  7. Oh, thats a pretty B model. I don't own any Macks right now. I'm only a dealer mechanic who only sees mostly mid 90s to all the modern Volvo built Macks. But if I do consider buying a truck it will be a B model .
  8. Do you have VMAC II or VMAC III? Also what was the code? It should be a PID 100 (oil pressure sensor) with an FMI of 1 (low pressure, red lamp only), 3 (signal voltage high), or 4 (signal voltage low). It is possible that the connector on the oil pressure sensor has worn out terminals (streched out) which will cause an intermittant connection or there is a break in the wire close to the sensor. If the ECM is bad you do not have to buy one from the dealer, you can buy from another supplier, you can even get a used one from a salvage yard, but it does have to be programmed at the dealer for the engine governer settings.
  9. The CH style square lights are terrible, I have never seen any upgrades offered from Mack or any Aftermarket. Unfortunately modifying the stock headlights is illegal. The only thing you really can do is check and adjust the aim of the headlamp assembly. Fog lamps or running lamps on the bumper to my knowledge is legal and may give some improvement. Its sad that Volvo isn't really doing much for Macks aging headlamp design. I think its funny that a modern Volvo truck (and most other manufactures) use a light control module that can detect shorted wiring and burned out bulbs but Mack is still utilizing switch and relays for its lights.
  10. Before starting work completely clean off the engine of all dirt and oil. Especially get the area around the fuel pump and high pressure fuel lines clean. A spec of dirt can completely ruin a fuel injector. I suggest you have an E7 Service Manual handy while doing the injectors as I am describing how to do this by my ways from the top of my head. The injectors are under the valve covers. You'll have to remove the air cleaner and air inlet pipe and the valve covers. If you have jake brakes, the brake housings will have to be removed, carefully remove the wire and disconnect the oil feed hose (the bolts that hold down the jake brake housing also hold down the rockers, I read in the repair manuals that these bolts should be replaced when removed but I've never had problems reusing them). If you don't have jake brakes then there is no need to remove any rocker bolts. The fuel lines will have to be removed, I usually suggest that the lines be completely removed, cleaned and inspected for reuse. When the lines are removed cover the ports on top of the fuel pump to keep any dirt out. Dealerships usually have plastic plugs that go over the port but you can cover it with saran wrap or a lint free cloth. The fuel injectors are installed under plugs between the intake and exhaust valves. A puller tool is needed to pull the injector from the bore. (The puller tool consists of a threaded shaft and nut, threaded tip, and spacer sleeve. The shaft is inserted through the sleeve and then the tip is threaded into the injector, tighten the nut carefully, you should feel the injector release from the bore with a couple turns of the nut.) Pull out the injector and inspect. It should have two O-rings and a metal sealing ring on its tip. If anything is missing check down the injector bore for it. The metal sealing ring usually is what gets stuck in the bore. A flat head screw driver can be used to knock it loose and remove it from the bore. Also check the fuel line ports in the side of the head for any accumulated dirt and blow out with a blow gun from the top of the cylinder head. Prepare the new injectors for installation on a clean surface. The injectors from Mack are usually in a padded paper enevlope. Open this envelope carefully, the padding is a loose cellouse and can get into the injector if the envelope it torn open. The injector comes with o rings and metal sealing ring. Lubricate and install the o-rings on the injector, apply a light coat of oil around the tip and install the metal sealing ring (the oil holds the sealing ring in place for installation). Take the removal tool and remove the sleeve and thread the injector onto the tool. Place the injector into the bore with the fuel inlet port facing towards the exhaust side of the engine. Press down firmly on the tool until you feel the injector click into place. Check through the fuel line ports in the side of the head with a flash light to confirm that the injector ports line up. Install the injector hold down plugs and torque to 40 ft lbs. Install the rocker shafts and engine brake housing (if removed) and check and adjust valve lash, Install the valve covers, Carefully install the fuel lines and tighten the nuts. Install the air cleaner and air inlet pipe. Check around engine to make sure all tools are removed before starting. The engine will be hard to start but should start within 20-30 seconds of cranking. Visually check (do not feel around, fuel spray from the lines can be injected through the skin and cause a dangerous infection) for fuel leaks around the high pressure fuel pipes. Let the engine run at a high idle for about an hour while observing for leaks. If no leaks are spotted then the procedure is complete.
  11. The valve threads are NPT threads, the threads have a taper to them that probably won't allow penetrating lubricant to soak through under normal circumstances. But if it leaking from around the threads this may mean that the valve is loose and will unscrew and tighten up with ease or there is a crack in the threads which may break off if you try to unscrew it. You'll have to put a wrench on it and see if it moves. Usually the threads in the tank don't usually rust if you maintain your air system properly, but if they are rusted you can use a pipe tap to clean them up. Yes you can easy out the pipe threads if it breaks off.
  12. Does it have a malfunction light on or has the dealer noted you of any fault codes? This almost sounds like a plugged EGR cooler. Have the dealer check the target vs measured flows in the diagnostic software.
  13. LOL that's cause everyone over states that it's a Volvo engine with red paint and Mack logos on it.
  14. Is the lighting bolt light on? Any heavy smoke? Are your fuel filters good? Check for fuel restriction from fuel tanks to fuel pump? You may need to pull the fuel feed pump off and see if the plastic gear is spinning on the shaft. The 460P should be producing peak torque at 1200-1500 RPMs. Operating range is 1200-1800 RPMs.
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