redington

Saw it. Real neat. I have the original engine or I should say, what is left of it, from that truck. Bought a bunch of parts in Florida about eight years or so. I am interested in selling them. If anybody needs AC engine parts email me.

I have a Case 1939 modelSC that is in need of rebuild. Bought it twenty years ago with good intentions. It is finished in early rust with traces of orange paint. Very complete and rebuildable except for one nut and a fender. The fenders were accessories so not so important. it starts on gas and you switch over to kero when warmed up. back then gas was fifteen cents a gallon and kerosene was six cents. I have realized as I approach my 73d birthday that if I finish my 1919 Mack AC I have succeeded so I doubt that I will ever get to the Case so you Case lovers out there now have a chance at it. I am willing to sell or trade. Hard part is getting it out of Arizona to wherever. If you are like me and really want it you will fetch it from where it sets. I can get it to the Dallas area at no cost or any where along the way(I-10 to I-20 corridor). If any interest e-mail me at redingtonranch@vtc.net. Also have a rough mid fifties LTLSW with an excellent cab and a few single stack sit down sleepers for a Mack.

NAPA

I have two with single stack cutouts. redingtonranch@vtc.net

I have a couple of sets of white with the fifties logo facing each other and a set of black. I also have black with silver logos facing each other. Also cab flaps in whiute, black, and maybe red. I have a few sets of original Mack old logo floor mats for B and R models too. Send me an e-mail to redingtonranch@vtc.net telling me what you are interested in.and I will send pictures. I prefer to trade but cash works too. Need parts for early AC.

The difference is the early AC had a round radiator with the fan being belt driven from the driveshaft and was located in the center of the radiator. The later models had a pair of verticle, square radiators on each side of the cowl and the fan was mounted on the flywheel.

Thank you for the reply. I spoke to him some time ago but he could not help me. I think i will have to build something that looks right. hate to do that since the truck is very original and has no othe reproduction "stuff" on it.

I need an upper and lower water tanks for an early (pre 1920) AC Model. Entire radiator would work as well. Also need fire walls and fan. That is all that is left to complete my truck. 1919 Mack parts seem to be a bit scarce.

Tried to contact you but link did not work. email me at redingtonranch@vtc.net and I will send pics of flaps

Barry: I had fifty or so pairs made up a few years ago. I sold them on E-Bay and privately. I still have a few pairs of white just like you showed above. I also have some in black with the same logo. I had some more made up with the Mack logo in chrome, left and right. Still have some left. I stopped selling them due to cost of shipping. I still trade or sell occasionally. The company that made thes up was licensed by Mack and I do not believe they had a set up charge since they still had the logo in their archives. If interested, let me know and I will see if I can find the source for you. meanwhile, I guess i could part with a few sets that I have. E-Mail to redingtonranch@vtc.net.

Sorry to have taken so long to get back to you but I have been on the road. Call me at 928-828-5555 and we can discuss it. Don...

For whatever it is worth, I was introduced to spray can paint from Imperial Supply in Green Bay. The body man who told me to try it was right. I use it for small parts and individual panels.I was told it had more pigments that others. I had tried BPS by Valspar which comes from Tractor Supply but did not work as well. Paint guns are best but when you are doing a small job you may not want to have to take the time to clean the gun. I have had good luck in touching up trailers as well. Damage in transit is easily fixed. The 99 cent Walmart stuff just will not work. Good for patio furniture and such. Also, I carry a can in my tractor so I can keep my trailers clean looking.which helps the DOT man off my back. Part of it is how you prepare the surface and then how you lay the paint on. Too much sags and too little looks like a spray can. Blending the overlaps is not as easy as with a gun but you can do it with practice. Do not knock the brush. In the old days a good painter could lay down a paint job with a brush and it would be as smooth as glass. Those kind of paints are illegal today and hardly anybody has those skills anyway. I still use a brush for varnish on wood decks and floorboards. You have to warm the product and use a HIGH quality brush. The technique for flowing the product so that there are no air bubbles or visable brush marks takes time and practice. Well worth the effort.

I have two sleepers that are sit down type. One with double stack cut outs and one with single. Have a couple without cut outs as well. I am realizing my age and it is time to give someone else a shot at having fun. Have lots more Mack "stuff" that i hace collected in the last fifty years. Mud flaps for rear and for cab. Mirriors for R Models, Floor mats with old logo(50's). Mid fifties LTLSW with title(rough but good cab). More. I am willing to sell or trade since I need a fan. firewalls, and possibly a radiator for a teens AC. Pictures available. Contact redingtonranch@vtc.net

I have had some response to my listing but my computer dropped six months of e-mails and I have no idea as who to respond to. Please contact me again at redingtonranch@vtc.net I have at least two NEW lights and both left and right mounts for B Models and some mounts for R Models. Once the lights are gone I will sell the mounts that are left.

No problem! Have a great day.

Nope, do not know your history! Hopefully no offence. I do not usually post much but saw yours and had to say something when you called the R ugly. I fell in "love" with the B Model in 1958 but when I bought the R it was almost as exciting as when I boght an old rusted AC. Since my 2000 Vision is exciting too, I can only say a Mack is a Mack and anything else is just a truck..

I have a couple of NEW in the box, Mack logo spotlights. I have the proper mounts for the windshield posts on both the R model and the B model. If interested e-mail to redingtonranch@vtc.net These are brand new as purchased from Mack years ago. Also have old logo mudflaps and old logo floor mats.

Wata you mean, ugly? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I have over two million miles on my 1981 RS612 and if I had not bought a 2000 Vision (CX613) I would still be driving it. It has nothing wrong with it except being "old". I would not be affraid to drive it anywhere. I think it is a cool truck.

The old way to see if gold is real is to bite it. You see, gold is softer and the teeth will sink in a little.

I have a mid fifties LTLSW that has a good cab. I bought it to put the cab on a pickup frame but never got to it. It is a nearly complete truck but no tranny, lights,tanks or bumper. Only the top of the hood, no sides. Typical light surface rust but not rusted out.

I know of two cases of recieving offer to sell neede parts by an e-mail from England. The seller wants payment by Western Union to a British address. He states he cannot send pictures due to a computer problem and his PayPal account is not working. I had a friend in England try to contact him to drive over and pay in cash and pick up the parts. Seems he was too busy to see my friend and insisted that I should wire by Western Union. Also his phone didn't answer. I am wondering if there are any more contacts since he seems to be working this forum. I am only putting this out since this does seem like it kinda smells. "When it is too good to be true, it usually is!" Just be awhere. There is a long shot that he is real but I have my doubts.

If I am seeing it correctly you have cracks at the base of the grooves (groove cracking). This condition can be caused by high side forces applied to a rib type tire. Can also be caused by petroleum damage, weathering, or exhaust on drive tires. If cracks are greater than 2/32" contact the tire manufacturer. Can be caused by tight turns.

I am not an expert on this subject but I have found that if the tire technician did not use adequate lube the tire may not set properly on the rim. You can look at the ring on the bead and see if it is even all the way around. When the tire is new it should have a dot to place next to the valve stem so that minimum to no weight are needed, Often when placed properly the wheel and tire are balanced with no weights. If the truck had steel wheels as new and later aluminum wheels are used the studs are often too short. Aluminum wheels are thicker than steel and have to be replaced. If the tire is correctly mounted, the bearings properly torqued to spec and torqued properly, front end alighned to spec, and shocks in good condition, you can try a set of Centramatic wheel balancers. They will keep the assembly properly balanced throught all speeds over 25 MPH. I had a problem on my R Model and the wheel balancers took out all of the mid speed vibration. Good luck!

For the data plate does your truck require aluminum or brass? I am not sure what goes on a 27. Early models have brass. I have a used aluminum one and a possibility of a new one as well. Do you need the cab side plates with the bulldog and performance counts?

A man has to decide if he is restoring to better than original or is he just enjoying tinkering in his spare time. Most of us who "play" with Mack trucks are enjoying the ownership and the joy of what we are doing. A case in point, the Iowa 80 1916 Mack is spectacular to the point of being afraid that it could get hurt(my opinion). Wonderful restoration. If it belonged to a regular Mack affectonado what do you do with it next? Hauling it around in an enclosed van and showing it off soon gets boring. getting dirty and tinkering is never boring. I am dure that some will criticize me for the way I am redoing my 1919 AC. it is 92 years old and survived nearly intact. My goal is to preserve what is there rather than destroy the patina that has made it through the years. I cannot believe the condition of the internal parts as I take them apart, clean them, and put them back together. It would be easier to replace them with newly made parts (cheaper too) but that would destroy what I percieve to be bragging rights. I can say that this truck is relatively unmolested and really original and 92 years young and it even runs. 98% of it is old, really old. It will not be perfect but I doubt that it never was. It was built to work and it should look like it, not like a toy truck. So, if it makes a person happy seeing it out back, that is part of the hobby and besides that is one's right! (I am oppinionated)