rhasler

The certification year for your engine (if original) is 2001. The original engine serial number is 1A0831. The 4559-31180 is listed in the bulletin under tune up kits. It covers all three versions of the brake assembly. That price does seem high, but its been awhile since I priced one.

Do you know if the Mack has the ASET AC engine with VGT turbo and EGR? I think it should, but it doesn't hurt to check. The 355/380 ASET AC should have 1,560 lb.ft. torque at 1,100 rpm.

Is there an active fault code? If you have a DID (driver information display) switch (looks like a turn signal switch, but on the wrong side of the steering wheel) you should be able to access the fault codes. If there is no DID switch there should be a small button in the center of the dash cluster that you can push and hold momentarily that will display fault code numbers. The faults are displayed as a set of three numbers, not as flashes. There will be an MID number (probably 128, 142, or 144) to indicate the ecu reporting the fault. The next number will be a PID, SID, PPID, or PSID to indicate the subsystem of the ecu that is faulted (for instance injectors), and the third is an FMI that indicates the failure type (an open circuit, voltage shorted high, voltage shorted low, mechanical failure, etc). Record all three numbers. If you have your operators manual that was in the truck when new this information should be in it.

That sucks. So are you guys set up with Huss or someone else to install the DPF kits?

Glad you got it fixed. It's sounds like you probably didn't have to spend too much to fix it either.

That too! Have you seen the version that Renualt has?

I've actually had Mack tell me components like the rear ends & clutch had to be replaced with heavier parts when moving from an AMI370 to AI460 of this vintage about 2 years ago, well out from under warranty. I prefer going through Mack and getting their appproval on the upgrade for two reasons: #1 If the drivetrain shells out because the customer was made aware of the required upgrades but chose not to install them then I'm covered #2 By installing the parts to change the engine horsepower per Mack the emissions certification is ok. This keeps the customer, me, and my employer out of trouble with the EPA, I can't afford that kind of trouble. fjh, aren't you in Canada? What are the rules like up there? I mean are there different emissions levels in different provinces where some are stricter than others, like California here is?

Just to clarify, the MP7 and D11 are the same base engines, the MP8 and D13 are the same base engines, and the MP10 and D16 are the same base engines. Supposedly the software in the ecu is the big difference.

It could be that the driver's door has been replaced and the tag wass not transferred to the new door. Look on the right frame rail for the vin number.

I think if you use the search box at the top of the screen to search for your user name you can find the original post.

The engine is a dual horsepower rating. At cruise speed it runs at the lower horsepower, and uprates when pulling. What you were told is technically correct. Road speed reprogramming is no big deal. Changing horsepower can cost a lot of money because it requires several component changes. Your engine might require new injector, turbo, and the like, depending on what it is stepped up to. Mack has to approve a horsepower changeover. If you go above a certain horsepower they (Mack corporate) will tell you that you need to install an oil cooler for the transmission, a higher rated clutch, and possibly heavier differentials. What they tell you to change is dependent upon horsepower & gcvw. You would probably be able to step up to a 380/410 engine without the changes to chassis components. I would have to look at the tune up specs to see if there are different injectors & turbo for it.

Looks like he was here earlier tonight

While you're into the engine check the hydraulic lash adjusters on the exhaust rocker arms for sticking/binding.

Rob, your axles are from before my time, so I'm not sure what kingpin kits fit. I may be able to get a few pages of information from an old Mack master manual if you need. Let me know.

Usually not too bad. I use a 1"-1 1/4" drift welded to a long handle to knock them out, that way no one's hands are in harm's way. Have someone hold it for you and swing away! You probably know this, but just in case you don't, you need to seat the pin in the axle when you go back together with it. The best way I have found is to place the steering knuckle on the axle and get the pin in position, then jack up under the pin so all of the weight of the front of the truck is pushing down. After doing that smack the axle with a large sledge hammer. I usually repeat this 3-4 times to make sure the pin is tightly wedged in the eye of the axle. If it isn't the pin falls down and allows the steering knuckle to wear against the top of the axle eye. That will ruin an axle in pretty short order.

It did start with the E6. I think the reason they aren't used on the MP series engines is that there isn't enough room for them, or maybe it was because they couldn't come up with a way for it to break and set a fault code every other day!

Mack used the Centrimax centrifugal oil filter from the introduction of the E7 PLN (manual and electronic inline pumps) through the MP7 US04 Emission engines. There are several variations of the filter now, I can count 5, but there may be more. I believe the Mack filter is made by Mann & Hummel, but there are several filter manufacturers that also ssell them (Fleetguard, Baldwin, etc.).

Have you changed oil and filters yet? It could be an air cleaner. That's probably one of the easiest and cheapest things to check. Also, did it start after reconnecting the Jake?

For someone with the ambition to do what you are doing the Bendix website is a great resource. See the Bendix document library here: https://www.bendix.com/en-us/service/library/Pages/Home.aspx On this page are the Bendix Quick Reference Guide and the Bendix Air Brake Handbook. These have a lot of general information that is helpful when identifying valves & other components. You can also search the document library for SD-03-4508. SD-03-4508 is the service data sheet for the SR-1 Spring Brake Valve. The data sheet gives general information and piping instructions.

It appears to be a spring brake control valve. The following description is from the Mack Air and Brake System Manual 16-104: The spring brake control valve directs a specific amount of " hold-off " pressure (about 95 psi) to the spring brake chambers to cage the compression springs and release the spring brakes. In the event of a primary system pressure loss, the valve allows a graduated application of the spring brakes through a treadle valve application, to bring the vehicle to a safe stop. Spring brake control valves are used in all truck applications, and may be used in some tractor applications.

You may want to take it to a Mack dealership and have them turn off the parameter that detects tampering with the speedometer sensor so that the truck doesn't derate for the same problem in the future

The sensor for the speedometer is on the transmission, not the dash. The 4-1 code will not set if there is a problem in the dash since that is a different circuit from the speedometer. Remove the sensor from the output shaft bearing cover on the rear of the transmission and check the sensor for damage. Circuit #3 powers dash & marker lamps. If your other dash lamps and marker/running lamps are operational it's probably just the bulb. I believe your truck should have a small solid state rectangular telltale between the speedometer guage & the tachometer guage. If it's damaged you'll probably need to change it.

Installation of lights should not have had an effect on the speddometer, the circuit that reads the speedometer is separate from the circuit for the dash lights. The lights should be on circuit #3, the speedometer has no circuit number as it is a direct input to the vehicle ecu.

Here is an excerpt from SB 266-017: For engine serial Nos. 0V0114 through 2R2728 (build date range November 14, 2000 through September 25, 2002), inspect the reset screw for the presence of 032053A stamped next to the screwdriver slot. If the screws are part No. 032053A, the brake has the 215SB321 kit parts. If the reset screws are any other part number, install kit part No. 215SB321, following all the instructions outlined in bulletin SB213027 Kit 215SB321 may no longer be available, but the parts are in the engine brake overhaul kit 4559-31180. You have to remove the engine brakes from the engine in order to install the kit which means the valves and engine brake settings must be adjusted afterwards. While this is done the valve yokes need to be adjusted and the exhaust screws checked for wear by measuring from the face of the hex used for adjusting the screw to the contact surface (part that contacts the valve stem). The measurment needs to be at least .960", if not replace the screws

4-1 fault code is for the speedometer, not the engine position (camshaft) of engine speed (flywheel) sensors. Typically this code is set to derate the engine when there is no signal from the sensor (as a tamper detection preventative). With Mack transmissions, a sudden occurenece, in my experience, is related to a synchronizer failure. Remove the speedometer sensor fromthe output bearing cover & inspect it for debris & damage. Install the sensor as follows: screw all the way in, back out 1 turn, tighten jam nut to no more than 15 lb ft. If the nut is over tightened the sensor can crack, probably why they asked if you had replaced the clutch recently.