burnin oil

They seemed to be stamped steel but I will have to take a better look. Honestly I snagged the engine numbers and didn't think much of it otherwise. I was hoping that a maxi had been swapped along the way. Anyone know of a source for the old head gasket? I am really considering pulling it down and checking the internals out. If I can't find a head gasket there isn't much need to go through the aggrevation.

Am I nuking this in thought. If there are several versions of the Duplex transmission wouldnt the front box be stamped as what the high gear was regaurdless of what aux section is bolted to the rear? That way the main would always denote direct or OD no matter if the rear is under drive or over drive splitter? Correct me if I am wrong but are the L model boxes under driven rear section with the standard transmissions being OD rear box? This would give a TRD-720 2 OD gears correct?

Is there any way to ID them positively besides driving or dropping the trans from the truck? I think the main is direct with an OD aux section instead of a direct/under setup. Maybe a number on the rear section or different bolt/casting arrangement? I am by far not an expert on these things but do have an understanding on how it works.

Thats where I had the problems with the wiki. The duplex section comes up with 2 sets of ratios and four transmissions listed. From what I have read the back box is OD and the main is direct for the 9spd. The tag on the visor says 9spd OD but the number on the trans is TRD-72. From my searching on here I got 5 hi as 1:1, .78:1, and .69:1. No idea what is really correct.

PICS of the bed don't do her justice. I can look at the rear by standing on the rear tire.

Superdog, I am inclined to believe what you are saying. Nothing looked to special under the hood. This is the info I pulled from the wiki under Engine Data. I bet the torque difference is in the RPM. B-67 ENDL 673 Diesel 4 7/8 x 6 672 170 @ 2100 480 @ 1200 END 673P Diesel same same 187 @ 2100 527 @ 1400 ENDL 673P Diesel same same 180 @ 2100 505 @ 1400 END 711 Diesel 5 x 6 707 211 @ 2100 602 @ 1350

Here we go. Not great but a pic.

Crap I typoed. It is a B67. Sorry guys. Working on posting a picture from the add.

I will try and snap a picture in a few days when I take the guy his money. I thought it was a rare combo myself, just not desireable. Who in their right mind wants less leg room in this day and age? That said if someone is interested in saving an old truck I am buying for the rear axle I can swap out mine for it and have a good rolling truck with a 6.67 rear. Everything points to an original drivetrain.

Just fixed the same problem in my pickup. Blew the gasket between the manifold and turbo. Sounded really bad under load going through a tunnel. So bad I was about to turn it off and coast rather than listen to that racket for another 1/4 mile!

Interesting. I saw it had less HP and torque than a 673P in the same chassis.

Still sitting in a tree line next to a farmers field. Just struck the deal and still need to go to the bank. The truck was originally a Carolina Frieght truck. B73 Concave cab with a short nose and a single axle. ENDL 673, 9spd OD Duplex, and a 4.65 rear axle. Some time ago it was converted to a dump truck. She has been sitting awhile and the front glass is toast. Cab is good but the floors are a little ruff. No telling about under the dash. The glove box is full of water from the busted windshield. Hopefully I can get her on a trailer in the next couple of weeks and rolled to storage. If anyone needs some parts let me know.

Parts truck has a TRD-72 9 speed OD trans. Anyone know the ratios? Debating sticking it in the L model istead of the TR-150 and keep the Auxiliary trans. Spent an hour looking and couldn't find the answer, the wiki page has an error on this trans when I down load it.

I am picking up a 64 B73 concave cab for a parts truck and it has a ENDL 673 in it. Is this anything special? I am considering doing a quick rebuild (bearings, seals, and gaskets) and dropping it in my L model. I know they made a turbo model of this engine so I am considering dropping a turbo and pump on it that I already have and letting it roll. I know that she doesn't have piston oilers but I think she will be fine in a play truck. If the truck is ever worked GCVW will be 40k. Any easy life.

Might want to check that with Glenn. He is pretty good with what swaps and what doesn't. The normal gear flip is done to a direct main box 13spd. An underdrive rear would give you about .75 OD and the OD rear box would end up around .62. Top 4 gears would be direct, .83, .75, and .62. Thats from memory but it is in that neighborhood. Glenn would tell you not to make these boxes as the gear shift is a little funny afterwards and you loose the low hole. More or less for a hobby truck only.

Just my opinion but there is much much better out there than a power puck. No experience with them but TS performance and Pittsburg Power come to mind. The reason that IH does not want to turn up the juice is reliability. RV and emergency vehicles are not hard worked motors and the manufacturers can get away with more power being produced compared to an OTR truck motor. RVs and fire trucks usually are not worn out before being replaced where OTRs get inframes and have long lives being loaded. I also agree with concentrate on the CDL first. That said an underpowered truck is a real miserable thing to drive.

You can call them and they will work all the numbers for you. I spent alot of time with the commercial vehicle folks when I was trying to figure out what exactly I would need to run legally at 35k gross on a private vehicle.. They figured all the axles and everything. Call Dept of Public Safety and ask for commercial vehicle enforcement.

Good looking truck. I bought a yellow B model like that once off of EBAY. Karma stepped in and the owner called me and asked what it would take to turn around and head home. Made $1100 bucks to turn around in Jersey. I won the bid at 1/2 his asking value and he had a guy offer full price! Figured it just wasn't in the cards. Now I have the L model.

I have not contacted them yet. I found their catalog from 2003 (google search) and they listed alot of L model parts. Unfortunatley the latest catalog is a different story. Never heard of steele products before. I really like the old vent windows and would hate to loose them. When looking at pictures from Gerharts last year I saw several trucks with L style cabs with out the vent window. They were not E or A models as they had dual winshields.

Mechanical works rule of thumb is twice as long as I would guess. Body work. Well that is more like 5 days for every hour I think it should take. Alot of that is do to drying time.

Bob, I actually managed to tighten the box up with the roller adjustment. I went from 6+"s down to about 2"s so I haven't tore the box apart yet. I didn't honestly think I could get away with that much adjustment! Tightening it up also got rid of the in and out slop on the steering shaft so now I am just watching to see if the seal is still leaking. I have not had a chance to put many miles on it since the adjustment. 60 year old vehicles have a way of reminding you of their age as I blew a radiator hose while on the test drive to check the repair to the axle leak. I took the opportunity to pull the radiator and have it pressure tested and brazed up to take care of a small leak. Since everything is apart I am redoing the radiator shell and about to start pulling the shudders apart for blasting. The have been frozen open since I got the truck. The yellow paint job is going away as I repair panels. She will be regal red with black fenders, shudders, running boards, and misc pieces and parts. Once the radiator shell is completed it is back to the roofs rust removal so I can get the clearence lights and air horns reinstalled. After that will probably be the doors as the glass is cracked, both window and vent, on both sides from the barn that fell on her before I purchased the truck. I also have to repair the inner door tops where they seperated from the skin in the same incident. I almost forgot that this was a free time project! J Hancock, I am not sure that the rubber will be reusable. It is rough but not deep cracks either. Maybe if enough people are interested we can get Diamond to hurry up on making the replacement rubbers.

Has anyone found a source for this? I contacted Diamond Rubber and they do not have anything at this time. They are hoping to in the future but nothing definate. I am hoping to redo my doors in a few weeks and need to find all the rubber.

There is a guy who has them for sale every once in awhile over in Roanoke. Has them on Ebay. He is on rt 11 in Hollins. Right between Roanoke and Troutville.

Good and bad news. Got the test drive in and it looks like the rear stayed dry. Bad news is I sprung an antifreeze leak and had a steady stream of antifreeze flowing out from under the truck. Luckily it happened at the end of the trip and everything stayed cool. Going to go ahead and replace all the houses and have the radiator done. Nothing like trading one leak for another.

I pulled it apart today and the shims were mint! Actually everything looked really good other than a little bit of wear on the thrust surface. Nothing major though. I cleaned everything up and applied RTV to the cover/first shim and the shoulder of the cover. Also put a glob next to the oil drain for the bearing and around the threads of the cover bolts. Drained the flushing oil, which looked good other than dark, and refilled with gear oil. Hopefully I will get a chance to test drive her tomorrow. Got finished just in time for firing the BBQ up for the 4th.