Mackman87

If I’m not mistaken the ratings only changed if a cross brace was added to the diffs. One running from frame across to carrier. They made a random 50k setup as well in the 90’s, the end of the axle looked like a Rockwell though.

Lol, old dude I bought this truck off a couple years ago was a farmer. No offense to farmers but they don’t seem very committed to putting it back right, more of just make it work kinda situations.

you are correct, one portion of the tank (larger portion is primary tank and smaller portion of tank is secondary. It has a small tank inside rail of frame for air compressor relief valves and governor psi. I do have a couple of nice small tanks off a late model RD that I could use, but back to your question, I’m not sure if it would supply the right amount of volume with out breaking out the calculator to do some un welcomed math.lol. I could pretty easily do the two tank mount and leave primary on drivers side and move secondary (I believe, maybe I have that reversed) to passenger side with a small amount of re routing lines. It’s a single axle, the picture with the axle under the truck is the way it was when I bought the truck. It’s some kind of home made setup. The trailing bar set up was used with mack hangers. Which isn’t correct as mack hangers need an eyelid spring pack to be correct. The truck had the open hook on both ends of spring. This was causing drive line shift and vibrations and the trialing arm was some kinda home made deal. I’m going back with correct spring and pins and remove trailing arm all together.

Do you have any pictures of this setup?

Thank you, we have a few gravel trucks so it was very useful until I tore this one down.lol. Im in line with you as well. I think moving the tank to the other side might be more work than I really want to do unless it’s the only option. When I get my axle back from my differential guy I’m gonna either slide tank back or modify brackets.

here is a pic of tank setup prior to stripping truck down

Thanks for the reply’s guys. I was more curious if anyone had pictures of how they relocated driver side air tank to passenger side and routed their PTO drive shaft.

Fellas, I’m curious if anyone has a picture of their rear mount PTO set up? I have acquired one for my six speed and have everything working but my original PTO was on passenger side and my main air tank is on the driver side. The rear mount PTO looks like it has to have pump on drivers side as well unless I am missing something. Any ideas or pics on the right way to setup PTO drive shaft to remote pump would be awesome.

Any update on this? Did you ever find hubs

Anyone have any more info on this?

I gotcha now!

I really appreciate all the info! I can’t find people with the knowledge to do this around me so Im trying to learn myself. also if I wanted to add/remove pump timing I would back the motor off a degree or so according to flywheel with out pump or pump gear on correct?

That’s correct E7 with Robert Bosch. I will leave crank in the same position until reinstalled. So I do not need to remove front timing cover to remove gear off pump? Just unbolt it from engine housing?

So when removing the pump for the truck. I use this light to tell me when the pump sees TDC. Once lights are both on does the pump remove the same way as an e6? (Three bolts holding it to motor). I have heard I have to take front cover off and remove gear before I can unbolt and slide pump out of the housing.

I hadn’t thought of that. I’ll ask the local drive shaft shop.

Im doing a rear mount setup currently on my 6 speed. I have the rear mount pto its self but looking for leads and info on drive shaft from pto to pump

I’m about 1:45min actually! That’s good news to hear.

Just curious, what pump shop did you use. I have a 350 that surges when cruising and needs some pump work.

Awesome info, good to know I don’t need to source a new yoke. Are these considered as strong as a non companion flange style mate? (Yoke off output shaft)

I’ll have to get all the info but I do know it is a trxl 1071. It has the super low lo hole.

Guys I’m looking at rebuilding my 6 speed in my single axle r model but I’m concerned about the output shaft. Every other truck I’ve had with an Eaton trans always just has a yoke off the out put shaft that the drive shaft bolts to. This speed has like a tube style that has a bolted flange on the out put shaft. Is this a homemade deal that I should replace with a yoke or is this a mack thing?

It does and it has an o-ring behind it. I was confusing the wear ring with the 1038 piece. I know better now.lol. The 1038 comes with a corresponding stem o seal but I’m curious if any one piece seal will work with the 1038 piece.

Where did you get the stemco unit?