QCDriver

Could anyone that has done this please share how you removed the hub. I'm replacing the hub and was praying that I might get lucky. Well that didn't work. I cannot break the hub free. I DO NOT have a cross block puller to do the job right. Could anyone share on how you got yours free? I have read the Meritor pdf. on R&R, but kinda stuck without puller, as I see it. Thanks very much in advance for your help.

That's about right on bags. One of our drivers got one last week big bag also was $186 for one.

Could someone with access post or PM me with a parts breakdown of front axle hub assembly with torque numbers? Thanks Doug edit: Meritor front axle sealed bearings. Last six 139664

Not taken wrong. Left was checked with right and king pins. I think it's the rear diff. having oil analyzed will know by end of week. Meanwhile I'll stay local.

Bearings checked ok with pyro. gun. I've run about 300k on singles. The shacking in steering went away with spring, but the vibration tingles hands on steering wheel, and feet on floor.

I shot the rears with pyro. gun they had low temps. I'm running super singles so thats not an issue. Do you think if I jacked up rears I might feel something rotating them by hand?

Other then draining oil and looking for metal, what else can I do to check if rears are OK?

Thanks for the B-day wishes. The noise is all day long. I thought it was ride height also but it looks fine. I'm working tomorrow very local, so when I'm off loading I'll check fluid levels. Today is my day and I decided not to do a thing today. Just veggin' out. I'll have more info tomorrow. I thought about a rear also, but I'm checking what I can now. I did find a spring on rt. steer brake broken, that was my vibration as shoes where rubbing.

Could use some input from the forums. I am getting loud road noise while driving straight and right. Sounds like the prop of a plane. It's louder when loaded, but if I make a slight left it goes away. The truck is an '01 CH daycab. I pulled right wheel thinking the bearing was bad, but it was smooth turning and no play. It is getting worse and can feel it in my feet now. Checked u joints, ride height and all of the driveline. All tires at good psi and wearing even. King pins are also good. What other things should I look for? I'm going crazy here waiting for a major failure before I can find the problem. Thanks for any input on this.

Fuzz, I see you found the site, welcome and hope all works out with the Visions. I'm the guy you met at Dap and told you about BMT. Doug

I was hoping to receive on Fri. It showed up Monday Evening. Not Donvel's fualt. I installed after work on tuesday. I wanted to put guage in dash blank, but too much curcuits in dash to drill for air.

Sorry for delay in posting. I installed the air ride Tuesday evening, took about 90 Min's. to 2 hours for complete install. Donvel includes everything for install but wire ties. The instructions were perfect and every thing was labeled also. The first thing I noticed was how much tighter the steering felt driving. The ride is so much better and it's like having a dial a shock setting while driving. Most all expansion joints now are not felt in the front end. Also while driving on the rutted highways it does not walk around side to side as before. I also can air the system up to 100psi to get better grease coverage in king pins. If anyone wants more info for how it help my truck leave a post. I would recommend this product for everyone that drives the PA turnpike. For the CH613 it mounts behind the front axle 2 air bags aside with DVI motion controls install @ factory. All components are top of the line. In the first 3 days and 1100 miles I can't say enough good things about my new riding Mack. http://www.donvel.co...ioncontrols.htm

Hi all, i ordered the steer axle setup yesterday morning, hope it comes friday. So while I'm waiting I installed the DVI motion controls for cab and seat. http://www.donvel.com/motioncontrols.htm I was not expecting to much, but boy it rides like I installed the best shocks for cab. The ride is sooo much better. The sway and slap is totally gone. If all goes well with the air setup for steer I will definitly buy the DVI's for the drives as well. More info to come later.

I'm going to install myself. As far as any comparison's I can't help on that. I pull tankers with about 25% of the loads going to some off road sites. I'm looking for comfort on road, and trying to smooth the off road deliveries. The owner of Donvel is a great source of info. I'm really looking forward to this and hope it will work as expected. They said if I do not like this setup they will refund all money within 30 day's. I'll try to post pics as well. Wish me luck going to install this weekend if I receive in time.

Hi, I'm ordering the unit this wed. would anyone care for a report of install and my comments after install? http://www.donvel.com/

Well I could never figure how to remove cup holder, tried prying and pushing out the plugs in bottom of cup holder. Well now I know why they looked like plastic plugs. I scraped them and found 2 torx screws. Reason why they always looked like plugs is because that bottom part is water tight. I removed top and found out, where my coffee went.

It would figure out of the 3 knobs for the system, the one that is used most, is the one with the plastic shaft. Without your diagram I would have for sure removed way too many torx screws then needed. Thank You. I'd but lost without the info you, and others have given me.

Mine(CH) was on passenger side, outside frame rail behind tank. I know some of the '01 Visions sleeper tractors they tucked them on inside frame rail, by the trans. area and was a real pain to get too. I know is was pretty close to compressor.

From the looks of it, getting the fan switch out, and replacing will take awhile. Any pointers for taking center lower section apart? It's an '01 CH. There are no visible screws or bolts without taking the dash all apart. I see 4 all the way underneath back by firewall. Could anyone get a hold or diagram dash lower center disassemble? Thanks for the help.

In the 1800-2100 range close to 50% better. I will still install the pump when bearings are needed. I have 432k on truck now, what are the signs off needing them done? I would guess when psi drops to low right? An oil analysis would tell also correct?

Thanks everyone for your input. It comes down to my driving. When fuel spiked, I changed my driving habbits. Well today I let loose on some down hills, with rpms above 1800 and it works fine. Lately I've been trying to top my best mpg. Now with new cam and tune up kit running hard today I got 7.1 mpg with 3000gal.@ 46000# net. loaded oneway. So thanks agian for your input.

Besides dropping pan,how invovled is replacing the pump? I've built many gas engines, anything similar?

LOL... Yes it had oil the last time I checked 4hrs ago

It does not quit drops cylinders then all 6 work then drops etc..... There is external lines on already. I bought used with 200k on it.

Thats about what I thought my psi is in that order but about 5psi or so higher Now after tune up on my truck they are saying my psi is low and need hi psi oil pump. I say bs. My oil psi has been the same since I got the truck. Today was my first pull with loaded tanker. I will call Mack in morning as the good service rep., ex. mech.. in the works am. I'm thinking bad ground somewhere? AC is out also. I added 134 with die but can't find leak,(w/uv light) compressor working and not short cycling.