Macktruckman

Total radiator tank width is about 37-1/8” and the very top is 34 something so same as yours I believe? Width from inside horn to inside horn is maybe 37-1/4”. It’s a pretty snug fit. Cac horns pretty much touch the outside edges of the radiator tank flange. The reason for cutting and flipping the horns is because the width where it comes out of the cac is 37-1/4” but where it transitions to a round inlet/outlet for the piping boots to slip on is narrower because the round sets offset to the inside and made it too narrow. I flipped them to make the inside width the same and the offset to the outside. I’ll try to post some pictures. The total overall height of the cac is the sides from bottom to the top of the horns is right at 31-1/8”. the total outside width at widest points is across the outside of the horns at right at 42” the core of the cac is 30” wide and 25-3/4” tall.

I’ll be happy to measure. Gimme just a bit. Latest tomorrow. I’ll get you some measurements. josh

I just checked. Mine actually is a 58 qt. Lol. 14.6 gallons. With 3 full size oil filters. Josh

Yes mine had the louver looking grill and it was falling apart anyway. Either way there’s not room for it after the cac is installed. That first one you sent at 4 states looks like mine. 1988 is what my doner truck is. The truck I’m using is a 1978. Mine also has the big pan and 3 oil filters. We have the ESI package. Extended service interval. Might note my radiator had some threaded holes on the sides that I was able to utilize for some simple angle iron brackets for the cac and radiator support rods. Hopefully yours does too. It really was pretty straight foward. May have to cut and swap the inlet/outlet and weld them back but it was really close. I just couldn’t quite make mine go without doing it. Even that wasn’t difficult. josh

I built my own air ride cab kit and made some rod brackets to go from the radiator to the shock brackets and removed the factory x bracing. Stole the hood Pads and roller brackets off the 88 cab that I took the cac out of as well. originally mine had the water and air combo engine mounted cooler like I saw above. I used the front half of a intake manifold from a cac truck, I bought the manifold half off eBay. Didn’t have to mess with the rear manifold half. josh

You can see in the pictures especially from top looking down that I cut the piping inlet and outlet off and flipped them over and welded them back to clear the radiator tank

Ok allfritz123, I apologize for the delay I’m going to try to put a few pictures up.

Oh and yes the hoods are a touch longer on the ones with cac.

I’ll try to take some pictures tomorrow and post them as soon as I can. I did use my radiator but I definitely had to toss all grill work. It’s close. Very close. But it does not touch my hood. I have a/c and bought a universal condenser and relocated it lower behind the bumper and put electric fans on the new condenser. We have an 81 R that is factory cac. It’s piping runs over the top of the radiator. I’m not sure that cooler would work with our radiators. The 88 I stole the cooler from and installed on my 78 has the piping coming around the sides of the radiator and I did have to modify those but no big deal just need a welder for aluminum or a friend with such. I’ll try to get some pictures for you soon. Josh

I’m sorry I’m late to the party and I’m glad you got the intake manifold bolts out. I have been into a couple of mine a couple times and those intake manifold bolts are an abomination. Lol. Bent some wrenches and used some curved ones like we’re shown. I removed the water/air tip turbine set up on my 285 2 valve in my 1978 R and I stole a front mounted CAC out of a 1988 doner truck and installed in front of my radiator. I was told I could not make it fit and close the hood but it does. It’s close to the hood but it does not touch. The modification I had to make was actual the piping. It wasn’t wide enough to fit down on both sides of the radiator. Almost but not quite. The intake and exit pipe kinda squeeze in so I sawed them off and swapped sides with them and tig welded them back so that now they kinda flare out and the cooler then fit around the radiator. I was able to use the piping and boots from the doner truck and I couldn’t be more pleased to be rid of that God forsaken tip turbine. I can post pictures if it would help. Just to clarify I put a charge cooler out of a 1988 R into a 1978 R. It is most definitely possible and not that hard. josh

That’s great news to me Steve I have an acquaintance here with a rather large salvage and he thinks he has an E7 in a fire truck he’d sell. I will find out more this week. Thank you Josh

Thanks guys I am sure I have a bore and or counterbore problem but it needed out of the shop it was in and it has a job it doesn’t need to miss out on this week and next so there wasn’t time and money last week to rebuild the engine right. I have my heart set on changing to different engine anyway so I put one liner in and it was in fact .020 over already so I just bought the same part number and stuck it in. The obvious problem that caused it to go in the shop was front head gasket so that’s fixed. I’ll use it now and be hunting an engine. I’d like to gather all the pieces I need and rebuild one right and not hurry and when it’s ready we’ll swap them out over a weekend or something. Josh

I certainly agree with that

Thank you sir for the help. All of you guys

Back together and running again. I learned a lesson I was ignorant about. I had previously ran the overhead incorrectly as I was unaware of the marks on the balancer at 120 degree intervals. That alone might make her run a little better too hopefully. It’s a temporary fix and I’m in search of an engine but at least it can make some paychecks in the meantime. Thanks again to everyone. Great bunch of folks here.

Lol. That’s what they told me. One guy especially, my best friend I call him my brother. He’s good. His most experience is with C-15, 3406E and C-12. Also 60 series and isx. But like I said earlier there aren’t many Mack’s here so he just hasn’t worked on those much at all. Given some time he’ll figure anything out. He stays really busy so I try not to bother him unless I have to, but if I ask he’s there as soon as he can. He is very concerned about that counter bore. He’s also on board helping me change to an E7. He likes cats so he even believes he can make a C-12 run in the old R. Lol

No I’m sorry for the misunderstanding. There is a .004 or .005” drop from one side to the other. Call it a .005” difference. They believe the .005” low made the liner crack

I’ve even considered installing the throttle pedal and fic and wiring harness using a vmac 1 or 2 as is.

I’ve been wanting a E7 for a long time. I love the idea of a mechanical 454

Oh no problem at all. I’m easy going. Lol. And I’m the one asking opinions and such. I appreciate everything. For the sake of clarity I didn’t pull any other liners as this is the only one I found broke. The block deck was cleaned up pretty well with steel wool and cleaner. So they straight edged the deck beside the liners but not over the center. So when the set up the dial indicator tool it was on a clean surface. The counter bore on the left or driver side of the block is approximately 0.004”-0.005” lower or deeper than the right or opposite side. Liner broke in number 4 hole. The front head gasket on number two was blown