Macktruckman

Glen recommended 22 degrees advance so I would like to set it at that and I’ve read about spill timing but I haven’t seen it done. I may try it.

Oh I put a standard front intake manifold on it and did away with all of the tip turbine setup. The doner truck provided all the intake and charge cooler piping

Yes sir. it clamps to the injector line. I have not used one. Mechanical pump. EM6 2 valve. Robert Bosch pump. history is it is a EM6-285 tip turbine engine. I retrofitted a CAC from a 1988 4 valve doner truck and sent the pump and injectors to Thompson diesel in okc. They recalibrated to the highest settings available for the RB pump with 11mm barrels And rebuilt the injectors. Then I bought a new holset HX50. Now I need to set the timing right. I had it advanced and it had timing rattle so loosened the bolts in the front of the gear and I turned the crank about 10 degrees to retard it and the rattle is gone but I’d like to do it right.

I’m looking for a source for one of those piezo adapters for a timing light, or a diesel timing light. I see some of the adapters on Amazon and eBay for 200 bucks or less but they are not in the USA and I’m leary to purchase. If any of you fellas had an idea I’d appreciate it thank you, Josh.

Thank you very much sir

I had a 285 tip turbine and removed the tip turbine setup and went to a regular intake and installed a charge cooler in front of the radiator. Took the pump and injectors (Robert Bosch) to pump shop and had rebuilt and recalibrated to E6315 specs plus 15%. bought a new holset hx50. now I don’t know what to set the pump timing at for best results. I have looked and looked here and elsewhere. Does anyone know what I should set it at? engine is around a 1980 2 valve. Timing marks on damper and pointer on the front cover thank you in advance josh

That’s so cool. Love that truck

I did notice the tank and I thought it was extra fuel tank. I have never actually seen a truck with air start. Do you only need one battery now?

That’s what my r is I guess.. long term project. Is the air starter a good thing?

That’s awesome. That really looks great. I’ll bet the 237 is a pretty good improvement too over the stocker. I’d love to have a b someday. When I was a kid there was one b here with a mixer drum on it and it had a quadraplex or triplex. It was amongst several R’s and one old offset cab U with a naturally aspirated engine. Nobody wanted to drive it or the b. No power. Lol. They finally made the b into a water truck and before I was big enough to ever drive it, a guy that’s a friend of mine and a few years older was driving it along the top of a tall dike of a retention pond they were building on a job and it slipped off the side and rolled over 3 or 4 times. The driver was not injured other than banged up. He wound up threaded between the shifters. He said when it all stopped, his hard hat was laying upside down with about a half a quart of oil in it. Still now he laughs and says he has no idea where that oil got into that hard hat. Lol. So anyway, I never got to drive a b model. That was 30 years ago. It was scrapped. The water tank was cobbled up it’s now on the old offset cab truck and it’s still here but hasn’t ran in a couple years. I sure like your b. Nice looking little rig.

It won’t show me a picture. I might not have the clout yet. Haven’t been a member here long. What transmission does your B have now?

What truck do you have? B? Early R?

Lol. Just more money

Hmm. Might be worth a little tinker. I just don’t wanna hurt anything.

800-900 is the hottest I’ve ever seen mine. I’ve been considering giving it a little bit more fuel and see if it made a power difference. I’d have to call my pump shop to see what they say and how to go about it. I have a Robert Bosch pump not the American Bosch.

I usually see 23 lbs or there abouts in a hard pull with the 285. Maybe 24 but I don’t think I’ve seen it make 25. One guy said he has a 350 with tip turbine making 30.

There is a cup or whatever on the top of the column under the wheel that’s held by a single Phillips screw. I should mention that on my particular truck I had to trim or grind or machine about 1/8” off the top of that cup before the new steering wheel hub adapter would clear without rubbing a little

That’s clever and funny. Lol i did order an adapter for the 1” shaft when I ordered the wheel. I probably should have said that

The steering wheel is an sci brand called classic polyurethane steering wheel. I got it from Raneys and I think it was the cheapest one. The insulation, I bought off Amazon. After some research. The first layer is a sound deadener. Something like hushmat and dynamat. I put it on every surface I could in the cab. (It’s an adhesive back) Inside the door skins. On the floor and up the firewall as far as possible. Even the bottom side of the floor pan. Up the back cab wall to the bottom of the window. The entire cab roof. Second layer was a adhesive backed 8mm thick foam. Stuck it right over the sound deadening material. Third layer was thermal insulation foam with a foil back. Then on the floor and up the firewall I layed in the factory floor mat and a layer of mass loaded vinyl for a little extra sound resistance. Put the foil back under side of the hood and outside on the firewall as much as possible. The hood rest set was off a doner truck. The rollers were gone but I was able to make some peterbilt replacement rollers work on my mounts/rests. The Pete rollers were like 6 bucks each. It took a little trimming and trial and error fitting but it all worked out.

Or fuel. Or insurance... lol

Well I won’t lie, I could spend that much on trailer tires about any time. So it’s not like I just need to blow the money. Lol

I was interested in the Jacobs brand brake. Not the Mack dynatard. My understanding is that dynatard requires a camshaft change and is also less effective. All things I’ve read as I have no first hand knowledge. But if a jake won’t help any I wouldn’t want to toss away the cash for it.

It would make sense. More ponies pulling would probably be more ponies braking I suppose

We have a 475 3406E and the jakes on it make a difference on grades. But if they aren’t effective on the old Mack engines I’d be interested to hear