JoeH

That's what I would assume, this ones in backwards I suppose...

+1 to 80k. We just bought a triaxle that's rated at 80k with no hitch.

Cab has a Scott Contractors logo faded on the door. We've owned it a long time, we wouldn't have put it in. Which way were the tags typically oriented? This one is upside down when standing outside the truck. Probably not the factory orientation.

Anyone else ever see one of these stamps in their R model door sill, driver side? A quick Google search shows Fisher to have been a cab manufacturer of automobiles, but Wikipedia gave no hint towards a relationship with Mack.

Anyone else stop scrolling and just stare when they saw the lug nuts? Or just me?

Looks like hydraulic rear brakes. Does not look like a triple frame. 

Assembling a Volumetric Concrete Mixer, and thought I'd share a welding trick I learned about and am trying to keep large pieces of sheet metal from warping! 

Use drywall compound as a heat sink to keep heat from extending out into the sheet.

Share your welding tips and tricks below.

What do you mean by higher?

Wow. I'd be worried about stopping power! Roads must be pretty flat out your way. Here in Pennsylvania we have up hills, down hills, sideways hills...

What axle ratings do triaxle have that they can hit 120k? Even with a 58k Camelback you'd have to have a 32k lift (pusher) and a 30k steer...

Seems a bit light for 10 yds, out my way you have to be a triaxle for 73280.

I would have dragged him along after he set it to 0 mode on the econdyne.  Why would he monitor it, change it, and not monitor the change? Give you raw data to see what changed and what didn't?

Only thing I could think of for cost variable is the engineer time to design the fuel map. But you already paid for a 505 with a fuel map, it seems stupid to me for them to charge you 3k because you picked a fuel map that you don't like. I wonder if you could pick up a used maxidyne ECU for cheap. Wonder if it'd conflict with everything else, truck miles, vin, etc.

That's a lot of weight perched behind the cab on the mixer truck. And it looks like it's got 22.5 tires. Doesn't look like it can hold more than 6 yards. Great looking trucks though, owner takes pride in his business. Out my way I only ever see front discharge mixers. Only a couple rear discharges in the area that I know of, and they're only used because they're equipped with a conveyor.

Would be nice if you could test drive a comparable 2016 econdyne 505...

Don't remember how exactly they're put together, but oil cooler gaskets and o rings should be readily available and easy to change.  Might need to to change the rubber drain tube out the bottom of the centrifilter, it may be hardened with age.

If the oil cooler isn't leaking I wouldn't touch it. I forget if the oil filter housing is attached to the oil cooler or just to the block.

Don't see anything helpful on that link.

Does your truck feel like it follows the econdyne torque curve?

Does the maxidyne torque curve look better for your application? If so, is that change in torque curve worth $3000?

My dad has always had to split our headlight switch up on our trucks. Headlights and turn signal clearance lights on one switch, cab roof lights another switch, and rear lights a third switch.

My 95 e7 350 if I don't use the engine brake while the engine is cool it won't work when it's at temp. Below 170 degrees both heads work. Above that they only work if I used them a lot before getting to 180.

If I didn't use them at all, only one head works at all, and it cuts out and stops working at about 1500rpms.

Solve that e7 engine brake problem. Dash switch says Jacobs, so I assume it's a Jacobs brake.

I'll have to double check the radiator mounts, but I know it has 2 hood rollers. Air was an option in 1988, but this truck didn't have it. Or it didn't get transferred over when H&K  put a new frame in the truck.  Square tube/muffler support is a bit rusty, I may just remake the whole bar. It also sits too close to the back of the cab, H&K took a hammer to the back of the cab to keep the diagonal brace from scuffing the cab....

What all did you have to do to convert to air ride cab? I have a 1988 RD I need to convert, rides like a DM right now.

Where did you get parts, what'd you spend?

On pickup trucks, if I replace the line along the frame heading to the rear axle I've found I usually have to pump some fluid through it before hooking it up to the rear axle line, otherwise it holds too much air and doesn't like to bleed for me. Likely because for a while I didn't have all the right tools. Now I have that cup with the tube that hooks to the bleeder valve. That thing is real handy for bleeding brakes.

Just don't let brake fluid get on paint, it eats through and destroys paint pretty quick.

I can see a dozer and a log truck!

2 hours ago, Rix said:

95 midliner

Has tan grease in the front wheel bearing. what kind of grease should I be putting in this thing?

Wheel bearing grease.

That's be a lovely spot for a Regen/derate!

Interesting. Try a different web browser. Internet Explorer is standard for Windows, but I usually download and use Mozilla Firefox. Different web browsers may interpret and present the web page a little differently, yielding different results.

Maybe this is part of how the top 1% keep the bottom 99% from making money. I'm a capitalist, don't get me wrong, but I prefer to deal with honest people. Don't plan on buying a Volvo or a molvo with this sort of crap going on this long 

At bottom or top of web page do you have a drop down box called "theme"? I don't any more, but for a while I could not reply or post topics because it had the wrong theme selected. (Theme changes the visual appearance of the page)

Alternatively, I believe you can post pictures by "drag/dropping" the picture file into the text box. Obviously doesn't work on phones, but should work on a PC.