JoeH

When you click on the reply text box there should be a "click to choose files" link just below the text section, next to a paperclip. 

Click it and pick the picture you want to upload. It should appear below that link, not in the text box. 

Modern cell phone cameras take pretty high pixel pictures, too big to upload without first resizing them. Or at least that's the case with my phone. Changing the "aspect ratio" seems to resize it on mine so that I can post it. Not sure where exactly you're hitting a snag in the process!

That is a sharp looking tractor. 

Modify the valve covers to act as a hold down clamp. The attached picture is a 1970s Honda cb750 valve cover. The rocker arm holders were prone to failing so the racing community welded and drilled threaded bosses to the valve covers so a bolt could thread through to apply additional holding force on the rocker arm holders.

Never seen an MPwhatever in person, let alone with valve covers off. Don't know if the injectors would be compatible with a fix of this sort.

Things like rotors should never be proprietary designs. They should always be generic for exactly this reason. 

That's exactly it; off camera are the steps, they're fiberglass. Some are set up that you have to pour up to the underside of the steps, this particular one uses legs under each step that need to be captured by the concrete. All in all it took just 3.5 yards to hit the perimeter and the steps. This pool is 14 ft across, had to get my truck pretty close to the edge of the dirt to reach across. My reach is 18'6" on this truck, and I needed almost every inch of it. Also needed my power divider lock to get up on the dirt as my rear axle bottomed out, taking weight off the intermediate axle.

Sharp looking truck, but someone put the rear cross member in upside down... Gonna be annoying to anyone that puts a 5th wheel on it for hobby towing.

Usually they also have one on the passenger side of the block near the back, near the air compressor.

My dad has "done" some cast iron welding.  They make special cast iron welding rods.   Just make sure things are cleaned up nice and follow proper welding techniques.

How come the little one doesn't get a water cannon?

It doesn't need to be filled to the axle center line, just barely above the bottom of the axle tubes so oil will flow to the wheel bearings. Also, as the ring gear spins it should swirl the oil outwards, helping to circulate the oil to the wheel bearings. As you make turns and go over uneven terrain oil should flow back and forth from the wheel bearings.

Make sure snow plow pump housing is nice and clean, lots of stuff builds up over years of use. Flush it out real well.

Don't remember which pump style it was, but we timed a fuel pump last year using a snow plow pump. Our Mack book said to supply about 700-750psi of diesel to the pump and put a dummy line in place of #1? Injector line. 

We cleaned out my old Western Unimount plow pump, (still wired to the truck) put a pressure gauge on it and adjusted the pressure to 700 or so, filled it with diesel, hooked it up through one of the angle ports, and set the timing that way. 2nd? Time my dad's timed a fuel pump that way at least. Last one I know about was in the late 80s, and we're still driving that truck like we stole it.

Both engines are endt676, ones a '76 the other a '79

36 minutes ago, dockmen027 said:

Westbrook CT

What's with the pony motor?

Put a reman oil pump in?

5 hours ago, Macktruckman said:

This one has a Robert Bosch 

theres five more r models here of various years and all of them are American Bosch and don’t have this thing. Naturally I have the oddball. Lol

I have some ambacs and I think a Robert Bosch, none have the adapter. Are you sure you need it?

Mine runs 20 psi at idle and about 65 psi at 1600 once the engine is hot.

251k miles, 18,700 hours.

Just fired up my 1995 e7-350, "cold" it's running 75psi oil pressure at idle. After a few minutes running it's at 60psi, pressure goes to almost 90 at 1600rpms.

Maybe your pressure relief spring is fatigued or broken.

Probably a bolt inside the cab.

Tunes make being stuck in traffic not so bad. Sitting in a nice looking truck makes it even better.

What speed is it idling at? Should be about 650 rpms. If it's lower than that then bump it up.

Weird. I have a 1981 2 valve endt676 engine sitting on the shelf. Same block, but I don't think it uses that. I'll see if my 1988 em6-300l uses one...

Lot of drooling going on over your pictures. You're doing a great job with that truck, it's going to look good out in the sun. Dual stacks are very nicely assembled and mounted.  Can't wait to hear how it pulls with that transmission!

That's a nice superliner, but I'll take that R model sleeper over it every day of the week. Except for Monday, I'll take the superliner on Monday as I've never driven one, much less a V8. Gotta try it at least once.

Bulk of it likely got caught in air tanks, they should have drain valves. You can clean lines out using Air System Alcohol, typically it's used as an antifreeze for systems without dryers.  You can also disconnect and flush individual lines with the alcohol, using compressed air to blow the lines out. It's administered by pouring it directly into the compressor intake while the system is still building air pressure. (i.e. pour some in right after you start the truck, while it's still building air pressure.) Pumping the brakes will also mist the alcohol through the system.