JoeH

Downsize the file? Mine post around 1-1.5mb I think

The R is truly a great platform, Mack ran it from the late 60's to early 2000's. Nearly 40 years virtually unchanged, that's unheard of, and truly impressive. They built their name on the R then Volvo took it away.

I'd buy an early granite and throw an endt676 or an EM6 with a maxitorque in it in a heartbeat. It's hard to find double frame R's with good frames anymore.

I like the black rims on the steer. Look like cop wheels! That's one sharp looking truck, you're gonna get some eyeballers when that hits the road!

Shame you're way out in Cali, no idea if Bergeys will ship out to you or not, worth a call! Tell em your dealers incompetent. 

Fred is the most knowledgeable there.

1-215-822-0402

They'll need your model and the last 6 digits of your VIN.

Good to know for the future! I think I stuck that damaged core back in the spare motor to keep the lifters from falling into the oil pan! Now the truck we put the good cam in is retired, (split frame) so it's our spare motor lol!

4 hours ago, fjh said:

The good thing here is the new style  followers  Did not face  crack like the old days if this had happened to an E6 the cam follower and cam  would likley be done for buy now .You are sitting pretty good here for a repetitively cheap  repair!

 

Good luck with it bro!

We used the cam from our spare engine last year for that exact thing. Carbide face cracks, wipes the lobe right off the camshaft. Mack doesn't make the endt676 cam any more.

Any time an engine does a hiccup I generally pull valve covers and oil pan. Valve covers will show you if you're having top end issues, oil pan shows you everything else, plus the pieces that may have dropped down.

There's a couple materials o rings are made of, some are ok with fuel some are not. I don't recall what material is good for fuel, personally I'd just go to my Mack dealer and get them, but my dealer's parts department is competent. They have no problem looking up parts for my 79 r686st. Doesn't mean every part is still available from Mack, but they are competent enough to look it up and find out. (Bergey's in Franconia, PA)

Painted by someone with a respect and love for the classic R model. Love the black accent following where the R models hood lines would be. That is a nice granite.

22 hours ago, Barry said:

I think so but I will be certain tomorrow when I open one up for inspection!

Post a picture

6 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Looks like a real worker wiyj spokes and big rears. Good luck with it.

Not my truck, found it on the interweb

I owe this after hijacking the thread!

At 1200-2600 depending on merchant I think I'll fabricate a deck to bolt to my trans jack!! It's got tilt and whatnot too!

Sweet looking hand cart! 

I picked up a set of liners and bolts for mine a few years ago, but never got around to putting them on. Truck drives around the yard with no shoes on one wheel, but it's just a yard truck.

We got them from Associated Truck Parts in Warminster PA, I'm sure they weren't 250, otherwise we wouldn't have gotten them.

1 hour ago, Rob said:

I have a hub and drum dolly for the task. No physical lifting of the heavy members that way. 

Snap a photo of it? 

We bought a trans jack from harbor freight, I think I used it once for a hub with decent results, but I need to make a deck for it specifically for spoke hubs, it's a bit wobbly for hubs. My dad and I have always used a car jack, one if us will work the jack while the other steadies the hub. I'm trying to become more self reliable so I can send him on vacation for a month or two here and there and still get things done.

I do like those aluminum rims for steer and lift. They look real sharp, recessed in just right with a wide tire I like that style granite, looks more like a work truck than the newer flashy ones.

Take your pick, heavy wheels or heavy hubs. In theory I think I'd rather buds on the rear, because I'm a wimp too. Don't relish the idea of pulling spoke hubs off by myself for a brake job. Only time a bud hub needs to come off is when a wheel seal goes bad. 

But we only have spoke hubs trucks. Just the way it's always been. We back into a lot of driveways , so we think bud rims would crack more often than normal. Not sure what everyone else's experiences are.

That's why it say fill property with rats and leave. Rats will spread through town.

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

No housing being built in Virginia. There will be something dusty, noisy and 24/7 though on 95% of my 1100 acres.

The Veteran Houses will be built in Maine between South Portland - Scarbourgh area and Gorham on 60 acres of horse farm that was my sisters.

Build grain silos to attract rats. Lots and lots if rats. Maybe import a few New York rats.

My dad always says if he won the lottery he would fill our property with stuff to attract rats, just to spite the Borough.

Interesting, because my flatback R cab doesn't have the seam body line at the back of the fender, and it's the oldest truck we have.

As long as it's an etech VMac III engine, code 1-7 is coolant level sensor. Check your coolant level, if it's good then check the connection to the sensor. If the connections good, change the sensor.

You can see the seam I'm talking about in these pictures. The truck is the 79, and the hood on the ground is the 81. The 81 went to the scrap yard years ago, except for hood, engine, trans and rears.

Both trucks, 79 and the 81, were/are engine mounted intercoolers, endt676 engines.

The 81 was a Canada truck, not sure where it was made.

Etech engine? My code book is for the vmac iii etech engine. I'll check tomorrow to see what for 1-7 is.

I believe the 88 doesn't have any "bump" where the 79 and 81 do.

Enlighten me on the variations of R model hoods. I have a 79 r686st that the back of the fender is a seperate part bonded to the rest of the fender, and a 1981 hood that is all one piece but has a fake seam where the 79 has that bonding. Bought an 88 that probably has an aftermarket hood, and have a 95 with the new style hood. Why the variations on the 79 and 81?

I put in radiant floor heat in my cottage. 2nd winter, it's amazing. But my cottage sits on a concrete slab. I had to jackhammer it out, dig down enough so I could put 2" foam board from Lowe's and 4 inches of concrete, then tile.

18'x25' cottage. My system is an "open" radiant floor system using a propane tankless water heater and a circulator for the 4 loops in the floor. "Open" means floor water is tied with the domestic water. Took 5 months for me to install it and renovate the first floor, but it's great.

Anyone recognize the driver? 😎