JoeH

Unless all your hauling is local

Etech motor? Buy Mack book 5-106 for the mechanical repairs, and book 8-211 for the vmac III codes/repairs/diagnostics.  You can hold down the set/decel button (with key on/engine off) to cause it to spit out active fault codes in a 2 digit format. One request spits out one code, hit set/decel for another code.  I wouldn't be afraid of it, pending it passing a thorough visual inspection and checking for fault codes, and a test drive. But 350 hp for a tractor is a bit soft IMO...

42 minutes ago, blackdog2 said:

1-truck that got 50 +out its yard like the roads MACK built them so Peeweebuilts  Kenelworths  Wolvos could drive down the roads today and dependable .

I think you mean PoorlyBilts and InterTrashionals...

10 hours ago, fjh said:

So with out a power divider ( lock out ) which people get mixed up on alot, you wouldn't  be able to nail down if it is a power divider  or not with out taking the unit apart ! if the tires are un even it makes the power divider work harder and has it constantly Turning and adjusting position if it has a worn spot on the cams inside or a broken wedge these can all cause clunks and noises !with the power divider lock out you can lock the power divider out and join both diffs together as a test ! and the unit is out of the picture ! with out it your guessing! Something I would look for Is Broken or slipping wheels ! Spoke wheels can slip and if your running STEEL buds the inner wheel can be cracked an you won't see it!

I've never worked on one, I'll have to get the books out to see how they're constructed. I've had problems with wheels spinning in the past, (spoke hubs) but I have them tightened well right now. We've replaced a couple hubs on this truck with broken spokes. Elephant pads look pretty worn out IIRC, so broken dowels as a potential cause caught my attention. It got new torque arms put on when we bought the truck, so I expect it's not them. Plus it doesn't do it all the time.

47 minutes ago, fjh said:

yes,  are your tires evenly worn?

Not particularly, we never change all 8 drive tires all at once. Only ever do one set of 2 at a time. We've been doing it this way for 30 or 40 years.

Good info here, my 95 rd688s does this same thing once in a while on takeoff, only as clutch is being let out. Will have to check for wear on spring T's. My truck does NOT have the auto power divider. Could my issue still be with power divider?

I want it. But wife would kill me, we're saving for a house...

On 10/8/2017 at 9:42 PM, Maddog13407 said:

not a Mack but picked up this little rare gem I need to sell. 1965 Dodge A100,sland 6, 3 on the tree, pretty rusty but salvageable in my eyes.

Bump

Dan wants it. Is it still available?

On 1/24/2019 at 6:37 AM, kscarbel2 said:

The mDrive HD is the only AMT available with split-shaft PTO functionality,

No...... The volvo i-shift offers it too... They're the same transmission...

Clogged fuel filter..... You didn't give us much info... What model, what engine...

Change the fuel filters again. My 95 mechanical e7 350 did this last year. First set fixed it for a couple days, replaced the filters again and it hasn't been back since. Also make sure you oil the filter O-rings before install, or you'll suck air in. 

Less than you paid!!

And if a cop sees a new engine straight piped he's going to wonder where the immisions parts are

4 hours ago, Mackpro said:

While I have been a proponent of deleting in the past I would like to change my opinion. I was talking to some of my former coworkers yesterday and they are starting to see a serious problem.  They have had 3 trucks with deleted MP8 engines that have had intake and exhaust valves crack and break and pieces and go through the turbo. They are not dropping the valve  just a piece breaks off. Mileage varies from 220,000 to 450,000. I have seen them drop valves due to broken valve springs on 800,000 mile engines but this is totally different failure. My thoughts are to delete the DPF and DEF systems and keep the EGR . 

I wonder if these trucks had pyrometers or drivers that knew how to read a pyrometer. Trucks fuel map was probably tweaked, putting out a wider power band and more power.  Exhaust systems are designed to be most efficient at a very narrow rpm band. Modern ones are also designed for all that Regen crap. If you're going to delete it and remap the fuel, you have to get the heat out of those heads! You have to redesign the exhaust. Ideal is basically just straight piped.

8 hours ago, ws721 said:

My only Mack with a HOOD😱 96 RD  with 154,000 miles. E7 with 8LL. When ya lift the plows the front end does NOT go down

I had a Ford f250 like that. Had an extra leaf on the front axle, I swear when you lifted the plow the hood actually came up instead of dropping!

Thanks! Can I up the gov to 2100 without hurting anything?  We just retired a low rpm endt676 that we turned up to 2100 a few years ago.

Our shop compressor airs up to 150psi, shuts off, then kicks on again at like 115 psi. When you get down near 115 it takes a while to trigger it to pump back to 150. Tires hold a lot of volume. And if you're working in flat mud, you're not really winding your turbo like you can on hills...

Don't change the coolant filter too often. They're supposed to have an additive in them to revitalize your coolants pH level. Changing too often will skew the pH level in a bad direction.

12 hours ago, Rob said:

If no interest in the complete hood I would have interest in the scoop for my 80 R model with 300+ engine.

Thanks,

 

Haven't looked at the hood in a while, don't recall if it's really even usable. Scoop is fine, I can just cut the hood around it and let you separate them. Whereabouts are you? Haven't thought much about boxing it for shipping.

Cat motor, no thanks. Looking at that interior, I'd believe the mileage. Talked to an oil customer today who drives a fuel truck for h&k, he guesses my '88 we just bought is probably around 800k miles. Mine has mold on the dash around the cup holder screwed to the dash panel, HVAC duct work is duct taped, dash panels are not secured well... Radio missing from the overhead... 

That super liner probably hauled a low boy to and from job sites. Less trips than a dump truck per day...

We just bought an h&k Mack from Coopersburg kw. My dad bought his first Mack from Bobby Metzger there in 1987. Still running it. Truck we just bought had new frame rails and trunion put in sometime in the past 5 years or so, and a good ticking motor.

Mack Macungie plant gave their construction work to another construction company, so h&k traded 60 Macks in for KWs. Or so we were told... Some of those triaxles are in really rough shape, some aren't too bad. Coopersburg had the lift axle off one triaxle, bottom frame flange was rusted clean through...

We only put 5-10k miles a year on a truck, so we'll get 20 plus years out of our purchase as long as Volvo doesnt screw with parts availability too much more...

I've got a hood with a scoop on it from a 1981 Canadian r686st. Hood has some cracks, but the scoop is in good shape. Don't have anything else from the truck it went to the junk yard close to 10 years ago. Thought I'd offer it before I get around to cutting it up this spring. Can try to upload pictures if anyone is interested.

Southeastern PA.

We just bought a 1988 triaxle with an em6-300L / t2070 maxitorque. How does it compare to the endt676 285 hp / 2 stick maxitorque?  Not sure what ratios it has, does 60 mph at 1600rpm on 24.5 rubber.

Is the em6-300L a maxidyne?

We're rehabbing a body to go on it, so it'll be a few months until I can compare to our other trucks! Hopefully it'll have more scoot than our 95 mechanical e7 350... 

Great advice on sandblasting in the cold!  If you have the ability, chill your garage before bringing the blasted parts in. Once the parts hit room temp then turn the heat up? 

Glad to see someone saving a good cab! Most of my R models have rust holes along the back of the roof! Doesn't help that we use muriatic acid to wash them, it's about the only thing that takes cement off....

We use waste oil; it's dirty and horrible to deal with but it's free! We have a local shop that gets us about 750+ gallons a year! Our tank for the heater has about 4 inches of sediment in it from over the years.... Can't wait to replace the tank and deal with that mess!