JoeH

The only thing working to push that cab back is the engine. Frame looks like it cracked between the battery box and fuel tank, so rear cab mounts are lifting up while front pivots.

Most stressed point is halfway between lift axle and steering  axle. I've been told having your lift axle set with too much pressure will stress the frame. Need to support the load evenly.  That's an impressive failure. I wonder if his lift axle was up or down. It's both now, lol ...

Wonder how much off road site work this truck has seen. Overloaded and no lift axle on rough terrain.

I got to a job with my 79 R686ST that was bouncing kinda funny on the drive. Got there, walked around the truck and found the right frame rail was split through bottom flange and the whole sidewall where it flare's around the trans. Was only holding on by the top flange! We cut it behind the cab and spliced a good front half on that side, been running it that way 5 or 6 years now!

I guess the frame cracked... Lol. shame.

20 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

The one I remember looked just like a hand powered pump pallet jack. I think it was grey in color and had a cat on it i think. I don’t have a forklift but I do have several jacks I can use to make one.   I want it to be semi portable 

Make one on wheels. My book says an e7 weighs about 2300-2500 depending on dry or wet. So 4 600# casters should hold it nicely.

http://www.truckpaper.com/ListingsDetail/Detail.aspx?lp=TRK&OHID=18757595

Here's a 2000 rd688s with a 427 and a 13 speed maxitorque for 18,500 in New Jersey. If it doesn't fix the vibration you can always put the tractor back together and resell. If it works, you have spare cab parts for your triaxle. Or someone here might be interested in buying some cab parts off it.

Dropping a replacement  motor and transmission in is the only reliable fix I can think of for your situation, unless you find something wrong inside the trans. Maybe find a high mileage running tractor on the cheap to be donor.

Does it vibrate in neutral, revved up, not moving?  Is the vibration speed dependant or engine rpm dependant?

What trans does it have? Has the trans been opened up to look for a broken snap ring? Engine might be fine, guts of the trans may have been compromised.

Could always pick up an e9 for the repower, maintain the cool factor. I assume itd fit.

Legs are just angle iron, nothing special. Our legs are short though, we built it for storage not working on.

I've got a home made one our spare parts endt676 is sitting in. It's got legs bolted to the flywheel housing and I forget what up front. I think that engine has threaded bosses on the side/front of the engine, because we had the timing cover off it a year ago to steal the camshaft.  Legs are welded to C channel bases that are web section up so our forklift can come in and grab it from the side.

4 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

P= pump 

L= line

N=nozzle

used to represent all the pre (to mid year) 1998 that had a jerk pump fuel system. E-tech was legally a PLN, but not a Jerk system and so no one ever referred to it as PLN. 

So what is a Jerk system? Is the endt676 a PLN system then?

Is PLN basically to differentiate between a common rail system and a traditional fuel injection system?

What does pln stand for?

If it were closer I'd lend my John Deere 450B...

Not sure how far the Jake's open the exhaust valve, but they can't have it opened enough to interfere at TDC. Idle injection advance is ballpark 18°, so injection and combustion have already happened by the time the Jake starts opening. That last 18° the combustion works to slow the engine, then near TDC the exhaust valve starts to open, venting the remaining pressure generated by the combustion.  

Not sure if diesels change injection advance based on rpm.

Hobert may be on to something with the butterfly brake not working in tandem with a traditional.  The Jake doesn't dump the "compressed air" it dumps the cylinders "reward" combustion. It works to make the combustion but the combustion is vented before it can be turned into mechanical power. Thus, it's a force of resistance.

An international oil delivery truck i drive in the winter has a butterfly style, and that brake will throw you through the windshield! But that's a single axle truck, not a 107000# truck. At that weight you simply need to drive smart and maintain a safe rig. (That goes for all weights)

That's sad. Pete's are nice highway trucks but they don't have the ground clearance Mack's have. He's gonna need to watch his steer axle fenders, the mudflaps tend to get pinched backing up, ripping the fenders off. Gotta watch the fuel tanks too.

If I were running highway paving I'd probably buy a Pete, but for site work off in the dirt I'd take a Mack all day long.

That's gotta be a pain to dump. Gotta unhook 2nd trailer every load, then hook back up?....

Get your family member to watch out for an early year granite cv713. Just watch out for rust jacked frames.

You don't need to pull the plug to check oil level, just to add oil. Clean the window, it has add and full lines on it. If you have to add oil you might be able to do so through that drain plug on the bottom left of the cap in the picture. 

Pulling codes is always key on engine off.

Watch for engine codes.

When the key is first turned on you should see the lightning bolt turn on for a bit then go off. That's the check engine light. If it stays on, with the cruise control switch off hold down the set/decel button a few secobdst until the check engine light starts doing stuff. It'll blink out a 2 digit fault code. Write it down. Hit the set/decel again, it'll blink another fault code if there is one. Keep doing it til it doesn't give any new codes any more.

Some of us here have invested in the books on these trucks and can tell you what the codes mean.

The tiniest dent in the side of that computer is all it takes to destroy it, or so I'm told, so be careful with it if you buy the truck. Clean looking engine!

I had a slight miss on my 95 e7-350 last year, 2nd set of fuel filters cleared it up. Almost sounded like the Jake brake was engaging at higher (15-1600) RPMs.  Pulling the Jake wires off the heads eliminated that possibility. First set of fuel filters made it good for a day or two, second set made it go away, hasn't happened since. 18,600+ hours, 250,000 miles, original engine, never rebuilt that we know of.

  Only ever get 26 psi boost out of it, would love to know how you guys get 30+ psi! This dog is no maxidyne, we thought there was something wrong with the engine because it just didn't pull like we thought a Mack 350 should. But we had only ever driven endt676 maxidyne 2 sticks prior, and this truck makes the same boost they made. We just had to get used to a totally different power band.

55k rear tandem, etech motor probably right side VMac III computer next to frame rail. Need to be sure your engine mounts are in good shape so the engine doesn't rock and crush the computer. 

Clean up that hub cap, it's a window to look in and see the oil level. The center rubber plug can be pried out to add more gear oil if it's low.