JoeH

1 hour ago, Macktruckman said:

I’ll try again another time 

I haven't figured it out yet either, but I think you have to downsize the picture file size.

You'll love the air ride cab. Nice thing about the big oil pan and 3 filters is 25,000 mile oil change interval. What's hard on the cams is when a tappet lifter face breaks. Wipes the lobe off the cam pretty fast. We just had to replace one for that last year. Good thing we had a spare motor here, Mack can't get the cam anymore. Maybe PAI has them? I've only heard of PAI from guys here, never dealt with them.

You can always ask around here and see if someone has a Jake brake on a spare engine they'd part with. You need all the under valve cover parts including the risers, plus an offset tip turbine adapter/plus offset hose going from intercooler to tip turbine, plus clutch/throttle/dash switches.

Let us know how it turns out once you have it running.

My crane has a 237 straight piped with a heat shield, but you can't have it. No idea if it's factory, last time the truck was inspected was in the 80s or early 90s. Just does yard work now. 

The turbos qualify as muffling devices, or so my dad says, but all our road trucks have mufflers anyway.

A steel shop could make you a heat shield, cut out whatever pattern you want on a plasma table and roll it. Send it out to be chromed.  My older trucks all use a rubber strap at the back of the cab to hold the stack upright, don't know if that's stock or not.

Look for one from a DM. They're supposed to have a muffler box down low with a straight stack coming out, with a heat shield on it. That's how our dm we just retired is set up.

3 hours ago, 1965 said:

That 2 stroke wouldn’t take off with 300lbs in it 

You'd be surprised, I actually have a concrete customer with a dually wheelbarrow with a set of wheels across the legs, it scoots along pretty good with a weed eater engine. It just doesn't turn, you gotta pick it up to turn it.

The slip on one looks like the elevator arm on a hand crank R model window. My dealer (bergeys) is pretty good about looking up that kind of stuff, but the parts guys are always busy. Id hate to bug them over nickels and dimes.

How did bolts break? Did they pull out of the threads in the block? Did the bolt heads break off and leave the rest of the bolt in the block?

I'd guess someone overtorqued the bolts and stretched them, thus weakening them. Maybe try grade 8 bolts. They get torqued to 42 ft lbs.

If you didn't have the hills id say it's be a waste on the maxidynes powerband, they make 90% torque from 1200rpms up. Extra gears are kind of a waste, you're pretty much always in your powerband. And the maxitorque trans has 3 countershafts to handle the torque, the Eaton only has 2. Do you have an engine brake on there? It'll make a huge difference on your stock setup, makes the tall gearing a breeze when you use the engine brake for shifting. I'd start by putting a Jake brake on before swapping transmissions.

Not sure what the top gear ratio comparison is between the two transmissions, that'll tell you if you'll gain or lose top speed.

Looks like he's off the shoulder enough to pitch the center of gravity a bit more safely.

My 79 R686st leans the same way, I assume it's saggy springs or to compensate for crown in the road.  

As a concrete truck driver, I can appreciate this thread. Let's see this kid balance this wheelbarrow with 300lbs of concrete in it.

Less rotation mass on direct drive I would guess with tall rear. Crank connected to input straight to output to the rears. On an overdrive power has to go through the gears. Before the output shaft. Both still have the deadweight of gears though, being constant mesh.

Might be one in the fuel filter housing? I've never worked on one this new. 😊

56 minutes ago, mackcat12 said:

I totally agree with that joeH as far as I’m concerned this is their last chance to get this truck right and if they can’t figure out what’s wrong this time they might as well go ahead and get me a new truck cause I’m going to raise hell until they do,this month makes 15 months they have been working on this truck,totally ridiculous it would have been cheaper on Mack to have replaced this truck long ago they said their cost on the engine alone was around $27,000 not counting all the labor and parts they changed and sending engineers here to diagnose and install data recorders and if the transmission has to be replaced I don’t know what that would cost them 

On the "it still runs so they won't replace it" comment a couple people made, it's getting crap for mpg. Operator expense is massive, and it's still going to need more repair than a good runner. It gets 3-8 mpg you said. 8 is great, 3 is junk. My volumetric concrete mixers get 2.5-5 mpg, and they sit onsite mixing and get a lot of idle time. I'm sure you've been kicking yourself all year wishing you still had the 88 you mentioned. That's the era all our trucks are from.

On 2/22/2019 at 8:18 PM, mackcat12 said:

Yes the engine is in after  being in the shop for 3 weeks and guess what the truck still isn’t running right! Having the same symptoms as before and they told me they don’t know what to do to it, they changed the ecm this week didn’t do anything  for it so I had to take it to them loaded and let them drive it with computer hooked to it but they say everything is showing good  I have put 1,500 miles on new engine and it’s getting 3.9 to 4.1 miles per gallon still has the vibration and severe turbo lag I’m at my wits end with this truck and the people from Mack I guess I’m going to have to get a lawyer and see what my options are.I’ll keep you guys updated.

They put the wrong engine in. It's supposed to get an em6 engine.

Id be hollaring at them for a new truck. If they can't get this one working they better replace the truck and take this one back. IMO when you buy a truck from a dealer/manufacturer you expect to get a truck that runs problem free for a substantial life. If it can't do that, well they better get you one that will.

My 95 RD688 you have to hold the switch just right to get it to work. We have never replaced the switch, but maybe it's a crappo switch design?

I had an 01 etech 400 that had ABS codes, there was some way to get the codes blinked for that too, but I don't recall. Get me the engine codes and I'll look into ABS codes in the meantime.

10 hours ago, Ali Carmona said:

No I haven’t done them yet, I’m just wondering I don’t have to much time in this business and I have many questions yet, and I just want to be prevented because there was a mechanic who told me that maybe I’ll need a rebuild so I don’t know if he wants to get my money or if he is serious. But thanks very much for your advices.


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If he hasn't pulled you're engine codes and told you what they are he's a dipshit. 

Go to the truck, turn key on, don't start engine. If lightning bolt stays on,  you have an Active Fault code. With cruise control off, hold down set/decel button for 3 seconds. Lightning bolt will blink a 2 digit number to you. Write it down. Each set/decel triggers computer to give you one code, if there's multiple active fault codes you need to hold set/decel again to draw the next code. Keep pulling codes til you've gotten all of them. 

Post codes here, I have a Mack manual that lists all the codes.

If one of the codes is serious the eecu will limit power to prevent serious damage to the engine. Could be a simple sensor failing. 

An engine rebuild doesn't fix electronic problems, it just fixes the mechanicals, which might be perfectly fine. Don't throw money at a problem you haven't diagnosed.

Got it fixed, at the bottom of the page is a theme drop down selection. Default doesn't work for me, OEM does....

Just started getting this message any time I try looking at a topic. Doesn't show any content, just this message.

[[Template forums/front/topics/topic is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

I think DMs in general are ugly. Doesn't help that ours has a 20k front axle. You may as well not have suspension at that point.

I don't like the steel hoods, it must be a pain to work on anything in there. DMs are already hard to work on, and to have one that the whole hood doesn't tip out of your way? No thanks.

But I can appreciate a well taken care of Mack show truck that isn't a Molvo. 

You can pull active "blink codes" with the cruise control. Easy to do, procedure should be spelled out somewhere on here.

I frequently drill rubber with a barbed pipe fitting in the drill press, it basically acts like a hole saw. It's actually 2 barbed fittings joined by a pipe coupling. One to stick in the drill chuck and the other to do the drilling.  It moreso punches through than drills, but it works on the rubber I use. Doubt it'd work on that stuff, but maybe thinking outside the box will get you taken care of.

Not sure if it's the hole through the middle you need to make or the shoulder. Is it supposed to have a shoulder or is that old one fatigued into that shape?

Just now, JoeH said:

RMM

Or RM. 6x6 DM's are DMM. The 6x6 R is RM I believe