JoeH

Those look really nice. I might be convinced to get a couple sets, one in that dark grey and another in tan to match my 79 R if it lasts long enough to restore. The tan one I might like a whole interior for, would be best to do it all in one shot so everything matches.

I don't see holes for the window crank and door handles. Are those mark and drill yourself?

I know a local guy that does interiors for classic cars, if he were interested I might be able to get him to make and sell interiors for R cabs. The price would have to be right and there would need to be a demand. He would need samples to work from.

On 2/25/2019 at 11:24 AM, Ali Carmona said:

 

hello, I have a Mack CX613 2001 with e7 engine, the truck has problems of boost preasure, sometimes it works normally with 30psi or more, but most of the time the pressure drops between 25-20psi, we already check the turbo and it is in perfect condition, change the joints of the turbo pipes, change the metal hose that goes from the air compressor and passes behind the engine, every time we do something it improves a little, but after 2 days of being operating, the psi again go down to 20-25psi, plus it is remarkable the lack of power when this happens, plus I noticed that sometimes the engine shuts down when I go on the road and I have to stop, remove the ignition key and when I try to turn it on, it lights without any problem, but the symptoms of low boost are not solved, also is good to mention that the pressure of the oil is also in between 40-50psi when operating temperature, the engine is getting worst really slowly but gradually if someone knows the reason of these problems and why they are generated, I would be grateful to guide me in what I can do to solve the problem. Thank you.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

How are you making out with the truck? Get any sensors sorted out yet?

22 hours ago, terry said:

new rails, sounds like a major undertaking, should make a real good truck for a lot of years, probably worth the hassle to stay away from all the emission problems.     terry👍👍

H&K put the new rails in, not us! Rails are probably 5 years old! They traded 60 old trucks in as part of a deal with Coopersburg Kenworth for new trucks. This is one of the better trucks they traded in.

Interesting, never noticed. I think they did modify the cab a little here and there, I think the roof on my 95 RD is a little different from my 1979, but I don't recall for sure.

We just retired the 1980 DM686sx, the rear of the frame is cracked horizontally about 8 feet from rust. Refurbishing the mixer to go on a 1988 RD690S with new frame rails; used to be an H&K truck.

It's a great engine hoist, but we only run older Mack's, soooo... We never use it for that. 😎

One of our yard trucks, not the original frame, this frame came out of a garbage truck that caught fire. 237 horse, 5 speed maxitorque. Steel dash. Never goes on the road. Head gaskets been blown for years, but it fires right up and helps out around the yard a few times a year. No rust holes on the roof!

Second picture replacing roof, first picture picking parts off a concrete mixer.

For those of us who have never heard of them, what's a plus 3 cab?

23 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

I’m right around the corner,grow up in Huntingdon valley.

Still in Huntingdon valley?

Another local boy! We deliver to holicong on occasion! Bucks county is a nice area.

Rob, I like the old style R hood on tandem axle trucks but prefer the new style hood on triaxles.  Most of all, I love how the old maxidynes pull. The endt676 in that '79 is very well suited to that truck at a max 52,000 lbs. We just picked up a 1988 em6-300l, won't know for a few months how it compares to the endt676 because we're renovating a mixer to go on it.

😛 nice to see someone local whos seen our trucks!

The collision center is one of our numerous tenants, we own and rent out the 7 acres it's on.

Welcome to bmt!

Rears are 44k, that's what S indicates in rd690s. St would be 38k rears, sx would be 55k rears. According to the below website, the 90 in 690 indicates a maxidyne engine? But I didn't know they still made maxidynes in 1999. Maxidynes we're usually 300hp I think. Someone more knowledgeable will probably chime in.  The 6 in rd690s indicates a standard highway frame. Should be a double frame, that's what my 95 rd688s has. Watch out for rust separating and cracking the frame flanges, that's a $25,000 dealer replacement job.

https://onlineuniversity.bloomfire.com/posts/2387484-mack-trucks-vin-decoder

Rofl. That van owner cracked me up. Just get off the street...

Lol. Some of the rammyest drivers I've encountered on the road have been Swift trucks.

19 hours ago, Superdog said:

wish I could read that serial #,curious as to how close it is to my '47 EF.

Give a call.

Rob and 1965 are right, check fluid levels and ground connections. If you're low on fluids they'll overheat, giving you a code. Make sure battery cables are clean of any corrosion and are tight. Check air filter, make sure is clean and not restricting air flow. 

I had just got off a 12 hour overnight plowing snow, so I wasn't typing straight. Could be bad sensors, but also could be that sensors are trying to tell you there's problems. Regardless, you're a far cry from needing an engine rebuild.

Hopefully the problem is the sensors and not the wiring harness going bad. Vmac III book tells how to test the circuits to determine where the problem is, wiring or sensor.  Sensors are easy to replace, that's where I'd start.

Don't need to. They'll become inactive faults, and the light will go off. Light only comes on for Active faults. Sensors tweak the voltage on the circuit, which the computer uses to determine what's going on. It throws a fault code when the voltage in a circuit goes outside the programmed voltage range. When voltage comes back into the proper range, the active fault is no longer present, so the light will turn off. Assuming there's no other active faults.

Go to your Mack dealer and order V-MAC III Service Manual #8-211 and ETECH Engine Service Manual #5-106

8-211 has all the blink codes, the procedure to get codes, and how to diagnose the code fault. 

5-106 has all the mechanical information on the engine, including sensor locations. Great intro section in it to give you how the computer runs everything.

If it were my truck, I'd use the books to go through and change all those sensors. 4-2 is possibly a faulty Fan Clutch Solenoid.

You should have some fun with knocking out those codes, I'll bet that faulty exhaust temp sensor and the ambient air sensor is your boost problem. Failing sensors are telling the computer the EGT are hotter than they really are, and so the computer is cutting back on the throttle.

2-1 engine coolant temperature sensor

4-2 fan clutch output

2-5 front drive axle oil temperature sensor

2-6 rear drive axle oil temperature sensor

2-4 transmission oil temperature sensor

3-1 exhaust temperature sensor

1-4 ambient air temperature sensor

1 hour ago, Macktruckman said:

I’ll try again another time 

I haven't figured it out yet either, but I think you have to downsize the picture file size.

You'll love the air ride cab. Nice thing about the big oil pan and 3 filters is 25,000 mile oil change interval. What's hard on the cams is when a tappet lifter face breaks. Wipes the lobe off the cam pretty fast. We just had to replace one for that last year. Good thing we had a spare motor here, Mack can't get the cam anymore. Maybe PAI has them? I've only heard of PAI from guys here, never dealt with them.