JoeH

9 hours ago, mowerman said:

OK, thanks for that. I entirely missed this that sucks. I was trying to figure out which truck you had and what was up with the cab swap. It’s the same one you just cleaned up a while ago….. bob

Yea the one we did the major framework on 2 years ago is the truck that went into the ditch. 😭

Cab is off the cutoff. Hopefully we will get it into the garage on Monday so I can start stripping it down. Might be a bit of a juggle to decide what to put where in the garage. Might make a wooden cradle of sorts on wheels to hold the new cab that my forklift can pick up and move around. 

Worst storm I've had to plow so far was 45 hours straight with a half hour nap halfway through. Guy I usually plow for picked up a shopping mall on the edge of Philly with "zero tolerance". It's a constant 24/7 operation, cars and pedestrians all day and restock employees all night.

About half an hour north of Philly.  Just some arctic air dropping south for a couple weeks. Jetstream will push it back north sooner or later. I'm running a thread in the "modern trucks" section. Though at 21 years old it's not really a modern trucks.

Supposed to get 3-5 inches on Tuesday, but you know how accurate the weather man is this far out... I'm pushing to get the cutoff's cab off and in the garage before then. We've got 2 weeks of sub 35 degrees coming up, which makes it too cold to pour any concrete. So it'll be a good opportunity to knock out the rest of this cab swap.

Our trucks never go out in the snow, but I've plowed snow off and on since I was 18. This year I just have to worry about plowing my own 7 acre property, which is a nice break from years past.

Someone on here said they replaced their engine wiring harness and it made a big difference in engine performance. Said it should be added to the tune up list

Glad you got home safe, we haven't had much of a winter here in southeastern PA in a couple years now. Some cold coming in next week, but no snow worth talking about yet.

Atta boy!

+1 on that radiator shroud looking goofy. That fan is way low and tiny compared to that massive radiator.

Also, I'm entirely unfamiliar with B's, are the X braces above the engine normal in B's? They've been cut, which is no big deal to replace.

21 hours ago, DavCut said:

Sorry to hear about the accident @JoeH .  Hopefully all involved are okay. 🤞

I see from your photos that you’ve pulled the mixer off. Was there much damage to it?

Enjoyed your build thread from when you assembled this rig. I’m sure that she will rise from the ashes better than ever. 

Mixer is largely fine, a little porta-power work, a little welding, and a couple small covers and the mixer should be (almost) good as new.

I had hoped to avoid Plan B on the cutoff, but seeing as we couldn't get any of the aluminum bulkhead connectors to unplug, I had to cut the big harnesses on either side.

About all that remains is the oil gauge pressure line going to the cab from the filter housing and the transmission shifter cable. Should get those done pretty quick tomorrow afternoon after concrete, then hopefully we'll have time to lift the cab off the chassis and get ready to bring it into the garage to strip down, patch a hole in the floor, and a few other things to get it ready to go on the truck.

On 1/3/2024 at 10:24 AM, Mackpro said:

On trucks where the air compressor gets it’s fresh air from the piping between the air filter housing and the turbo, we see guys running dirty air filters and the engine is sucking for fresh air so hard it pulls oil up past the rings on the air compressor which pumps it into the air drier/air tanks. Very common on the 2003.5 -2007 Aset Ac engines . Could also happen to any truck with air compressor getting its fresh air this way. 

My '79 endt676 we tried a small filter they make that goes right on the compressor, so it had an intake independent of the engine. Still pumped oil.

Old cab staying warm and dry.

Chassis is sitting in the garage, not sure there's anything left to do today.

Need to pull the spare cab off the cutoff, steal whatever we need for the radiator/CAC assembly on this truck, install/gut new cab, swap guts from our cab to the new cab. Hopefully we can work in a coat of paint on the new cab before it goes onto the truck.

Photo dump from today. Only trust a Mack to work on a Mack.

What's the plan for this machine?

That's pretty awesome. Never know what someone will find logging into this site!

I hope it runs, it looks clean, no rust in that flyer. I'd love to see that thing working on a job site, but I don't suppose that'd be good for preservation and whatnot.

Probably didn't sell more as a Scraper does the work of 2 pieces of equipment, self loads and hauls it off to dump.

24 minutes ago, terry said:

I had a 237 engine that had a loose exhaust seat, ran quite awhile that way, had the pop,pop when you let off it or coasted with it, when I pulled the head you could see where it was moving up and down in the carbon buildup.   Terry

My '79 makes this kind of a pop pop on throttle let off.

Let us know what you find on valve lash.  

Fortunately I have this gem of a 14,000 original miles ETECH 300 spare for any SNAFU's 🤠

Starter is relatively new, changed it 2 years ago during our frame overhaul. Batteries relatively new, but they did lay on their side for a few hours during the rollover and then sit for 2 months. Truck has a battery kill switch on the battery box, but it is underrated IMO. It gets hot from excessive cranking. Once the truck was running under its own power it was charging at 14.250 volts according to the laptop.

Restarted on its own no problems after we let it run for a few minutes. Voltage issue doesn't concern me, but it's helpful for people to know how bad voltage can affect trying to start an electronic truck.

The slight miss is going to need to be looked into, while this EUP system is good, there's nothing better than PLN for durability. We have not adjusted the valves, never even had the valve covers off.

I keep hearing the term CCRS. What is CCRS, and how's it fit in the ETECH/ASET family?

Considering the same year block can put out 25psi boost on the 283hp version I can't think of anything that'll get hurt at 20psi.  That head you had rebuilt would make me nervous, it took a beating.  Wouldn't be surprised if a valve seat worked itself loose... 

The fuel pump is what limits the truck on power. The turbo will only put out enough air to match the fuel pump needs. I think. Basically the fuel exhaust drives turbo, so when you run out of fuel potential you run out of turbo potential.

Truck has about 430k miles and over 27,000 hours. No idea if the engines ever been rebuilt, so maybe injectors are squirting a little funny. Would be curious to look into injector spray pattern testing tools, no idea if there's anything affordable for occasional use.

Today we pulled the secondary filter housing off the replacement cab cutoff assembly we bought a few weeks ago, replaced the damaged fuel lines, installed a new secondary filter (I guess we should have done the primary filter while we were at it...), primed it up, hooked up the laptop, and turned on the key. All active codes are related to the torn ABS sensor on the passenger wheel. New sensor gets picked up in the AM on my dad's way in to work. (Hopefully we can get all the codes cleared up before we have to start gutting the cab.) Engine shutdown light was on, a bit of coolant and that went away.

Engine wouldn't start, laptop showed voltage dropping below 9.5v, which I think is about where the EECU won't fire off.  Battery charger on, my dad shot a little ether in the intake, and we managed to stop cranking while it was chugging on ether, and with the voltage spike back up to normal I think the EECU was able to kick in and start firing in some diesel! It coughed through whatever air got into the injector lines and the idle steadied right out.

We pulled the bumper, pulled  heater core hoses and butted them together, pulled the passenger cab latch off, rear engine heat shield, scratched our heads a few times, and called it quits. Not rushing into this too aggressively, it's a bit of a Gordian knot. I'm not Alexander the Great, so I won't be untying this one with a sword.

All looks good on the electronics side, so now we have a baseline of systems functionality before we gut the cabs and put all our wiring from this cab into the replacement cab.

The engine does have a slight miss, which it had before the rollover. @Joey Mack any tips on what to look for? Broken EUP springs? It has no codes, so whatever it is it'll likely be mechanical.