JoeH

460XT is the file you want.

+1 on fuel filters.

You need boost gauge also.  Should at least be hitting 30 psi.

CCRS EUPs are a different part number.  CCRS means Current Controlled Rate Shaping. Instead of a binary On/Off injection, the injection is done in 2 phases, an initial modest phase that gets the burn started, then it goes into second phase where it goes all in. This is likely controlled by the EECU, but like Joey I'm weak on programming knowledge. Use whatever EUPs you're supposed to have. Heads and injector nozzles are different on ETECH/CCRS motors in believe.  ETECH has fuel return galleries drilled into the head, CCRS I don't think does. At least the AI/AC motors that are CCRS don't have them.

4 hours ago, The Rubber Duck 006 said:

Yeah I understand. New Job is going Wonderful I'll be actually running a FEED Truck myself Tomorrow....Been riding with a driver Yesterday then he let me drive and kinda run the show myself today and It was grrrrreat Feedin' them Piggies 🐷 

Do you still have the 88 IDI? We have a '91 IDI.  Fuel pump is a PoS.  You have to dump a cup of water on the back of the fuel pump to get it to start when hot.  We had a shop put a rebuilt pump on it less than 10,000 miles ago, and allegedly it's a thing that the housings wear out and you can't do anything about it.  Cold water shrinks the housing to help it start....

The manual trans will hold up much better than an automatic. My '97  dodge 2500 12v just hit 231,000 miles on the original trans.  I bought it from a CAT mechanic who was religious about changed trans fluid and adjusting bands every 20k miles.  I've plowed snow with it every winter since I've bought it at 185k miles, and it just keeps on chugging along. Motor is fantastic, hasn't needed anything other than a water pump. 

I also expect straight pipes will help with Exhaust Temps. Diesels you want to get rid of exhaust as quick as you can. Backpressure is undesirable. Gas engines, especially dirt bikes are where the real science on back pressure starts to play a role.

Heat, head gasket and trans issues. 

The 7.3 PS is a fantastic motor, I'd argue 2nd in durability only to the 12v 5.9 Cummins.  I think this boy is going to be having heat induced issues more than anything else. Remember, many old Mack's run without functional puff limiters and blow decent coal when pulling.  If the trucks an automatic he'll be cooking that if he runs too much HP, then he's going to swap in some bulletproofed trans, feel that cost sting a bit, and he'll up the HP even more.  Annoying, but you sleep in the bed you make.  Let him live with the consequences.  Not sure what his employment status is, but if his name is on the side of the truck if he's self employed then it's his own name/reputation he's tarnishing if he's smoking out everyone else driving around town.

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6488&GroupId=404

Free download from Mack on the E9 manual. Or you can go to your local dealer and have them order shop manual #5-102

Look through the Mack eMedia website, everything you need should available. There is no "book for R Models". The books are component specific.  Engine, Trans, Rears, etc.  There'll be a book on frames too I expect. There's books for the more modern engines and their computer systems too.

I'm scratching my head, are you talking about Oil Filters?  You titled it Fuel Filters, but every ENDT engine I own has the fuel filters mounted on the truck frame, not the engine block. (I think. I've never taken much notice of our crane's motor)

+1 if it were Hilary they wouldn't have missed...

Did you try just tightening the nut?

Valve cover gaskets go on bone dry, only torque to spec, no more.  Over torquing squishes the valve cover out of shape, and any sort of glue/adhesive makes the gasket slippery, it'll bulge out of position and leak oil.

I found the screwdriver/injection pulse test in Mack literature. Sounds "batty" til you try it.

Any time an EUP is removed, remove it's lifter as well. Costs nothing to lift it out and check the roller and do a visual on the cam lobe. The axle shifted on one of mine, resulting in the axle only being held by one side.

While idling & missing, press a flathead screwdriver firmly against each injector line, roughly an inch above the EUP connection.  You should feel injection pulses.  If one of them isn't pulsing then that's your problem cylinder.  Second test is a cylinder cut out test: individually pull a wire off each EUP, one at a time, reinstall each wire as you go.  Don't back wire screws out all the way, they're not designed to come all the way out. The wire end is egg shaped to slide off a loosened screw. You'll get a spark as you take the wire off.  You're listening for which EUP cutout affects the idle the least.

Another thing to check: valves have Rotators.  Pull your valve covers and look for missing rotators in the valve caps.  Joey will know better than me what these look for.  If all this checks out then you need to inspect your camshaft for a bad lifter that maybe ate a lobe on your camshaft.

I just had $18,000 of work done on my 2003 AI350, which had some combination of all of these failures including injector nozzle. Only part of the above I dodged was camshaft, but I did have 2 failing lifters and 3 bad EUPs. 2 broken EUP springs and 1 failing solenoid in an EUP.

Truckpaper is your best resource for VIN hunting.

It's a 4 stroke. It takes 2 full rotations, 720 degrees, to work through all 6 cylinders' combustion strokes.  Each cylinder is adjusted on its combustion stroke TDC.

Glad you didn't have any interference damage.

Happy 4th of July. Enjoy!

It's entirely doable, but it's a big task.

2001 onward the EECU has been moved up on to the intake manifold area on the left side of the engine, a much safer location for it.

Best thing is to have the donor truck on hand with all necessary parts, wiring, computers, etc.

What year E7-460 are you planning to swap in?

Worth mentioning, if it's vmaciii, 1998-2006 or so, the VECU and ABS module gets mounted by the passenger's feet, and the windshield gasket can fail and leak water and destroy VECU. It's not waterproof.  If you're going to do all this headache then replace your windshields/gaskets, and make sure the sheet metal is good.

Hope you have the trans to match the 460, that's a big jump from 300, need to make sure whatever trans you have has the torque rating to handle that engine.  Also driveshaft. I've noticed on our Mack's, 300hp motors get a skinnier driveshaft that 350's and up. So you may want to check that too.

Other than that, as long as you have a donor truck to supply engine mounts and miscellaneous brackets you should be good to go. But it's going to take a good bit of work.