JoeH

If you're doing the heads yourself, DONT SWT THEM DOWN "RIGHT SIDE UP"! The injector nozzles stick down into the combustion chamber, you'll crush the tips! Either set them down on cribbing or set them down on their side.

Never heard of the 901 part of it.

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

yes,  the lower exhaust stud holes are open. they go into the pushrod bore..  with this being said, if you re-seal/replace them be sure to avoid running those studs too deep. you WILL hit the pushrod..  the stud end in the head is about 3/4''..  if you decide to pull the heads, before you do, get a dozen M16 x 75mm long bolts, and large washers the same size as a half dollar.  you will use these to hold the liners down. this way when you are rotating the crank to inspect the liners, you wont risk the chance of moving a liner.  It's rare, but possible..  Jojo

He is working on an E7 mechanical, not sure if the heads are the same as the E7 ETECH engines. Do the older E7's have this exhaust stud issue too?

Not sure what the E6901 is. Is this an E6 engine? Or an endt675/6 engine?

The ENDT engines use  plastic fuel return leak off lines that jump from injector to injector and then run back down to the injection pump/fuel return I believe.  These lines get brittle and crack eventually, and 99 times out of 100 I'd bet this is the cause for draining off fuel when sitting. Easy enough to buy a coil of this stuff from your Mack dealer and replace any that are damp.

Not level to the ground or not level to the hood assembly? Ground would be frame twist/uneven spring packs I'd expect, and to the hood assembly I'd be out of my league.

On the ETECH motors I think I've heard that the lower exhaust manifold bolts are open to the pushrod passageways, so you can get oil coming through the stud threads. Probably not part of the issue, but maybe?

1 hour ago, Straydog954 said:

The frame is decent not a lot of jacking, just a little bit in the rear frame area. It was a southern truck originally then spent some time in the mid west where I bought it out of Nebraska. I only run it in the summer as a part time gravel hauler. My truck has also loaded up while idling to the point where it was dripping out of the turbo but then it corrects itself. I’m thinking my truck idles around 600 rpm if im thinking correctly. 

Up the idle speed to 650 rpms where it belongs. Should just be a screw stopper on the fuel pump that the throttle lever stops against.  Micro switch for the engine brake may block your view of it.

14 minutes ago, Straydog954 said:

 

How's the frame on the truck? If the frame is rust jacking bad and doesn't have much life then is it worth the fuss other than dumping oil in?

I have a 1995 e7-350, 24k hours.

I have noticed on my truck that if I shut it off and give it 5 minutes it'll be a gallon low. If I come back in the AM it'll be at full. Sometimes the truck will "load up" on oil while idling and blow a smelly blue haze, but most of the time it runs clean. Mine also developed some fatigue cracks in the oil pan at the corners. New pan was $2,000, came with pin holes for gasket tabs to push through. Of course the dealer gave me the old style cork gasket, and i didnt know about the rubber gasket so I welded the holes shut...

What's your engine idle rpm? Over time the setting can dip, and then you aren't idling fast enough to keep the rings sealed well enough on combustion.

And the dump body looks nice, you might be able to find a buyer for it for a few thousand. Help offset the purchase price.

I will say you'll love working on this truck. I love working on our MR688. You tilt the cab forward and EVERYTHING is right there! Front of engine, back of engine, sides of engine.... Transmission? Once again, everything is right there. You can put an A Frame over it to lower trans out. 

With 38k springs I'll guess it's a single frame, former tractor.

Just double check if it's a single frame or double,and see how bad the rust jacking is if it's a double.  Always the possibility that the frame is cracked and failing. 

Is this a short term get you back to the shop or can the truck be left like this and run indefinitely? I don't have one of these engines, I'm just curious.

What was CCRS?

Good luck! Any clue who he sold it to? Any local old timers maybe recall the truck/buyer?

My coldest is probably shortly after high school, zipping up and down the highway at 80 mph when it was +14F degrees out. I had cabin fever and needed to get outside! 1976 Honda cb750. Good bike, still have it but doesn't run at the moment.

Unfamiliar with the MH cabovers, but we have a 2003 MR688S with a 20k steer axle and we drive it 10 below the speed limit, potholes HURT. Bridge approaches are sketchy on the highway, you don't realize how uneven they are until you're sitting just in front of the steer axle at 65 mph. The next one you'll be doing 40.or at least that's how it is in our truck!

Sounds like you know enough about them already. Not sure what parts you think you'll need, the only real differences from what you have now are just sheet metal. Double check the basic items like cab mount bushings, treadle valve, and I bet you'll find a lot of similarities to the R models.

Turns out the U model used the same frame rails as the R model.  We stole a frame rail off our U to patch into our '79 R, fit like a glove. Mack used a lot of stuff on multiple models.

Runs and drives, no brakes. 

Looks like a single frame, and while the cab floor is rotted out it could be a great foundation for a restoration. "Brakes don't work" it's got rotochambers. Swap those out for some 30/30's.

I'd consider paying 2500 for that if I wanted a B to restore. 

But seller would need to explain that "1 of 3" BS.

There's a long straight hill near me that frequently turns into a sheet of ice during snow storms. Before you go down it you slow down so you can make sure its not blocked off by people getting stuck coming up. One car will get stuck halfway up, the next car that comes up will try to go around them and get stuck at the same point, the next guy coming up will try to go around both of them by using the shoulder, and get stuck at the same spot. Before you know it you've got 5 cars across blocking the whole road. Meanwhile my dodge 2500 cruises right up it at 45mph with the plow off the ground.  My single axle Ford L8000 salt truck I have to lock the rear axle and use my momentum to carry me up the hill, but I'm empty and headed to get loaded when I hit that hill, so I have no weight to speak of.

One of the perks of the whole "green" movement is they've made cars lighter and lighter. Which makes them worse in the snow.

9 hours ago, mowerman said:

OK, thanks for that. I entirely missed this that sucks. I was trying to figure out which truck you had and what was up with the cab swap. It’s the same one you just cleaned up a while ago….. bob

Yea the one we did the major framework on 2 years ago is the truck that went into the ditch. 😭