JoeH

Early ETECH engines put the engine computer on the passenger side of the engine, under the turbo. Later ones are on the driver side.  

I don't see any reason why the engine wouldn't fit in your truck and work, assuming they're both ETECH or ASET AI engines.  Might be minor differences on ambient air temperature sensors, but you can probably swap computers and make the 460 think it's the 300.  Once again assuming the 460 is an ETECH.  Turbo and injectors and a few other mechanical parts may be different.

read this before you rebuild your ai300.

What year is the E7? Would help to know if it's an eup engine. What chassis is the donor engine from and what chassis needs it? Different chassis use different bulkhead connectors for mating the wiring between the engine and vehicle harnesses.

There's a very thorough writeup on here regarding the AI delete. Cam, exhaust manifold, turbo/exhaust pipe, etc.

What transmission is in the truck right now? You need to make sure the trans can take the extra power.  Also a 300hp drive shaft is weaker than a 460 driveshaft. 

I'm contemplating dusting it off, hiring a team of horses and putting it in the Chalfont parade one of these years. 2 of the wheels are in the bed of the wagon so the forklift can set it onto the top of the shelf.

"It was made in Pleasant Corners, Near New Tripoli, PA. Under the paint you can just make out "Sand Springs Roller Mill." I bartered for it from John Greenall. I forget the name of his farm. He was a participant with us in the Liberty Bell Trek in 1976. It is as close as I could find to what was probably used by Hartzel's between 1860 and 1930." - from my Dad. 

Our business has been around since 1860, used to be lumber yard and a feed mill. This wagon is definitely not fiberglass, it's very much made of wood. Wheels, spokes, hubs... All wood. 

Replacement cab is white now to match the other trucks.

Pretty sure the wagon is from the 1800s. Don't really have any knowledge of its history, not sure if it has a tag plate on it somewhere. I'll have to inquire with my dad.

I have a nice king pin press I bought at advance auto for my dodge 2500, it'd probably press the studs out if you had enough space on the backside for the tool to fit.

Everything bolts right in.  Steal the VIN from the donor truck so you can get new air bags and shock absorbers.  The airbags are threaded if I recall. You grab it and spin it to get the bags out.

I converted a 1988 RD690S to air cab.  Literally found a 2002ish RD at a junk yard and bought the rear mount assembly. You need the exhaust stand/crossover bar, 2 brackets inside the frame rails that the shock absorbers bolt to (one bracket on each side) air bags, a plate that bolts to the underside of the cab, and the bolts that thread in from inside the cab.  There's a leveling valve as well in that assembly, I think we tied our air supply in from the line going to the seat. Bolts right in, makes a world of difference on ride quality.  

Are your studs stamped with an L? Pretty sure my truck with Budds is right hand thread all around. I'd have to check on the steering axle. My 1979 has left hand thread on one side on the steer, with stud pilot rims. Rears were converted to spoke hubs in the 80's when we bought the truck. They're all right hand thread.

I'd be texting my boss telling him I'm not safe to drive after that ordeal! Especially considering the bridge would likely still be closed by the time you got to it again...

11 hours ago, Mark T said:

Guy where I live here has a E Tech (pre self destructive EGR)   He took it to a diesel repair shop because the EML was on (truck ran fine)  He wa stold the light wa son because it needed 6 unit pumps and six injectors. Then they told him they needed @ $9000.00 for parts before they went ahead with the repair. He questioned them and they were adament the codes were coming from both the unit pumps and injectors themselves.  This wasn't a Mack dealer, and that was because they gave him every excuse why it'd be weeks before they could even get it in.  So now it's been running around with the light on for a couple mounths (lol)  Personally, I think the old girl needs an engine harness, point is this is one more of countless examples of what truck repair has devolved into.  

Please tell him to run the blink code test and figure out what the codes really are....

"we're going to put 6 new injectors in, 6 new injectors lines, but they're going to leak oil, and by the way you need a reman engine after we do all that." ?....

On 2/8/2024 at 7:26 PM, dieselpowerstroke said:

So it seems they are willing to hillbilly my new injector lines to make them seal to the cracked nozzles. Like, really?  But also he said afterwards, they would just slobber oil slightly down the side of the head and

Is anyone else scratching their head as to how you get an oil leak from fuel injector lines mating up to the injectors?...

What I don't understand is how taking off the injector lines cracks the nozzle cup down in the injector bore. Granted I've never had to pull injectors myself, but shouldn't the injector and thus the cup be locked into place by the injector retaining bolt(s)?

I know what you mean, these old dogs are great.  We have a 79 r686st that we've about worn out, and a 1980 or 81 dm686sx that's been relegated to yard duty.  A little mechanical know how and these trucks will last a long time.  Having several of the same trucks pays tremendously with spare parts and know how on repairs.

@Joey Mack is the resident expert here on ETECHs and AI/AC rebuildING. Where are you located?

I'm sorry you took the differential out of the truck unnecessarily, that's a chore and a half. Taking the body off too is a other chore and a half.  Last one we did we jacked the front axle waaaay up, and pulled the whole axle housing out from underneath the truck. Then did same to the front.  Our truck bodies aren't easy to remove, and the truck ate a bearing which busted teeth off some gears, so we decided to swap differentials to get a better top speed than 48mph...

Top wasn't way low, top was fine.  You only check the lower axle housing plug when checking oil level.

It splashes UP! Then excess drains down.

51 minutes ago, elm said:

 I don't see how fixing the wheel seal will fix the main problem of oil leaking from top to bottom.

It's all connected. Oil is flung up top by the gears down below. So oil is "circulated". There is no problem on your axle other than a wheel seal. Fix the bad wheel seal, then find a way to tilt the axle housing towards the replaced seal so that oil from the pumpkin floods the wheel bearings.  Top up the pumpkin and you're done, good to go.

Oil is splashed up from below into the top housing... As Joey said, on initial fill you hit the top housing and then bottom, but after that you only check the plug on the back of the axle housing. Oil should be to the bottom of the hole.  You keep putting oil into the top, and it keeps draining that oil to the bottom because its not low up top.