JoeH

I post all kinds on all kinds of stuff all the time. Probably just an anti spam feature til you've established yourself. log in every day for a week, it'll get you a badge.

In US, 1-3/4" will fail at a DOT stop. If 3 out of 8 wheels fail then your truck is put "Out Of Service" and has to get towed or repaired on site.

Type 30 brake chambers only have 2 inches of rod travel before they bottom out, unless they're "Long Stroke" versions. If your brakes have 2 inches of travel when cold then the air chambers are bottoming out and not applying full pressure on the slack adjuster. Plus, when your brake drum heats up it will expand, requiring even more brake travel to apply the brakes. If your slack adjusters won't keep the brakes adjusted under 1.5 inches then I'd argue it's time to replace them, they're worn out/failing.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/xg1jTHpCnufV1Wdx7 Have you tried these guys? They're only a few miles from Sun Valley, NV. "Absolute Hose and Fittings"

Here's a fun rig, anyone ever see one of these? Its a Callahan hoist 5th wheel.

At least 2 shops local here that make hoses while you wait.

Mechanical is always your friend, manual or auto. Would be a major headache trying to graft a computer system into another truck. Apart from that I got nothing. Using what's readily available means parts to fix will also be readily available.

Also, you don't have your air cleaner attached in those pictures, so you don't have as much vacuum pressure at the jets without air filter restrictions.

Far outside my expertise, but we have an old Oliver white tractor/forklift that we replaced the carb on a couple years ago and just hooked the governor back up a couple months ago. Man, it idles so much smoother now that it self regulates it's idle speed. I would look into your governor mechanism if all else checks out.

My Mack dealer uses PAI parts as well I believe

I think the factory cab air ride should mate right up from late model R model, you just need to find a junkyard with the donor parts. We scavenged the parts off a 2001 RD to make our 1988 RD an air ride cab. Everything bolted right in, including the brackets inside the frame for the shock absorbers. We also needed the exhaust L stand that also serves as the frame the cab mounts bolt to.

Just got my 3 year old that lego fire truck for his birthday lol

You can download the books for free on Mack's emedia website, just Google "Mack emedia ASET AC" and the link will pop right up to my screenshot with the view file link.

Below are screenshots of the ASET AI book and ASET AC books on Mack's emedia website. 5-110 is the AI book 5-111 is the AC book which I assume what your engine is. External EGR system. The AI engines use an extra bump on the exhaust lobes to open the exhaust valves on the intake stroke to suck exhaust back into the engine for reburn. If you have an AI motor then now would be the time to delete the emissions system by going to a pre-ASET camshaft. Later down the road you could do away with the restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo, but this would be the time to do the internal delete. But you probably have an AC motor, which uses a different emissions system.

Since this is a 2006 I assume the motor is an ASET AC motor, I'd recommend the ASET rebuild/overhaul book over the ETECH one. It'll cover the minor differences on your engine regarding EGR system. The ETECH book doesn't have that info I believe.

That's right. You two disappeared around the same time.

Sign up for an Edison Motors diesel electric power swap! If you're training up the next gen of auto techs this is where the future is!

@kscarbel2 were you the one a number of years ago looking to turn your Virginia property into a retired Veteran community? I thought that was a great idea, was annoyed to hear how much of a roadblock the local government was on it.

The type # indicates how many square inches of surface area pressure the brake chamber has. So a type 24 chamber has 24 square inches of surface area to compound the applied pressure. If you're doing a soft stop at 30 psi then 30 psi x 24 sq in is 720 lbs of force applied on the pushrod. If you're doing a hard panic stop and you're applying 100 psi then you're applying 2,400 lbs of force on the pushrod. If you're running type 30 chambers then those braking forces would be 900/3,000 lbs of force of the pushrod respectively. That rotochamber looks pretty big, it might be a type 36. You can measure the chamber diameter and run the math to figure out what size it is. 3.14 x radius squared should give you the size of the chamber so you know what size you'd need to replace it.

Type 24's and Type 30's are far cheaper and more common. Rotochambers are basically just old style air chambers.

I have 2 wheel loaders that use air over hydraulic brakes. The rotochamber applies the rod movement to operate the hydraulic master cylinder. If that one only operates the front brakes and the front brakes are already disconnected then you can unplug the air line from the rotochamber and cap it. Before doing this, verify that this rotochamber/master cylinder doesn't operate the rear brakes as well. If you plan on using this rig on the road then I'd say you need to fix the front brake system. If you're just using it on your own property then the safety of your own property is your call. You should be able to convert that rotochamber over to a Type 24 or Type 30 air chamber instead.

Air ride cab no, don't think so. Air ride rear axle, yes. Air ride cabs, the front cab mounts would need to be hinge type pivots while the rear cab mount is air bags with a leveling valve. The issue will be on hood impingement. The cab will need to rotate on the front cab mounts, which will crush into the butterfly hood.

Depends on suspension. Mack Camelback suspension, no, not without swapping entirely different suspension and axle in, which is entirely doable.

Also not sure what your state's driver license laws are. In PA, a CDL is required for anything over a 26,000 lb weight rating. Also need an air brake endorsement to drive trucks with air operated brakes. And now if you take your CDL skills test in an automatic, you're restricted from driving manual transmission trucks. If you're looking to have a payload of 15,000-20,000 lbs on the truck then you're looking at needing a 33,000 lb GVWR, which in PA is max on a single axle truck. If you're trailering the load then that may buy you some wiggle room on the truck chassis you swap a cab onto. I believe you still need a CDL in PA if the gross combined (trailer and tow vehicle) weight rating exceeds 26,001 lbs, but I've always been fuzzy on the details on GCWR.

As someone who owns one, I don't think you can beat a 5.9 12v Cummins, but I understand they may be pricey. They use a hydraulic brake booster off the power steering pump, so you remove the need for a vacuum pump. Personally I'd stick to a mechanical engine. Fuel and coolant and oil and you're running. Not sure what region of the US (I assume) you're in, but in PA there used to be a lot of Ford L8000 single axle oil delivery trucks. I have one I converted to a dump truck that has an 8.3L Cummins with a 6 speed transmission. Rear axle is geared for local driving, it'll do 55, barely.