JoeH

I see 3 air tanks in the pictures, could easily have a 9x20 there. I'll check, but I expect freight wouldn't be cheap from PA to CA

Apologies, Southeastern PA. Chalfont to be precise. Planning on gutting the truck this week, so I'll PM my cell # to interested parties. Don't want claimed pieces to sit here long, so I'd prefer local boys to pick things up promptly, helps me keep from tripping over things.

Fuel tanks, someone please take them. Air tanks, have a spare hood that's in great shape. All I plan to keep is frame, engine, and power steering. Trans will likely get kept if no one wants. Aluminum 5 speed behind the 237.

Turns out this U685T model shares the frame layout and bolt pattern that my '79 R686ST has from the front to the crossmembers before the rear suspension. We're stripping it down, cutting and splicing the frame to repair our R model, then scrapping anything we don't need and you guys don't want. Rear axle, transmission, anything on the cab.... Dont care about getting anything for it, just don't want everything we don't need to get scrapped.

Rolling down the road you see the chrome and miss the hood cracks.

Pictures or it doesn't exist. 😎

1979 R686ST single frame, 38k rears. I can get more dimensions if anyone's willing to sell a rail. My dad's been commenting about a noise while driving his truck the past couple weeks. Walking around his truck today I noticed the frame cracked vertically at the splay, right under the driver seat. We would be much obliged if anyone has a decent frame rail in a parts truck in the Quakertown, PA region.

We have the harbor freight truck trans jack, works well but you may want to make your own deck adapter to hold the transmission. The "safety" chain is a joke, and the 4 angle iron feet that bolt to the deck are slippery. Jack handle is very nice, it pivots around so you can operate it from almost anywhere. The jack is also nice to use for spoke hubs.

You posted it on the internet; I tried it; it works. Just kidding. 😎

Been slammed at work, haven't had much time to work on it. Maybe with this coronavirus I'll have some idle time to work on it!

Mixer body sitting on it's horse! Lots of design and fabrication ahead of us!

I owned a 2001 etech 400, I couldn't find a single freeze plug on the engine, let alone a block heater. I'm sure it had freeze plugs, but I couldn't find them...

I won't touch an inversion table any more, I tried my brothers and threw my back out pretty bad. I let my muscles relax a bit too much and felt my vertebrae separate enough for something to slip between them that doesn't belong between them...

That frame is immaculate. Could wish for a double frame though, that's a lot of weight pushing down on the frame when the body first starts going up. Great find, how many miles? Tractor first, so I guess it'll have a few.

I think he meant it ain't right for an R model. And id agree. The R's I have done have a light like that, they have a pedestal light for the turn signal. My DM however has a light similar on the side of the fender wheel well, but it sets into the hole with a rubber grommet.

And I'd put a price on it if I knew what it was worth. Which hopefully is not less than scrap value.

5 speed aluminum Mack trans. My dad will likely want to keep the hydraulics from the plow setup. If you're just buying for parts we might want the power steering off it to put on our crane which is a monster to drive around in the yard.

Comes with a spare hood in decent shape. Cab is a bit more than a little rusty, but she runs and shifts. Dad used to plow snow with it. Last inspection was 2003. We put the dump on another truck. Has a sleeve frame on the back, crossmembers were cut and shortened to maintain spring hanger spacing with the frame sleeve.

Hubs are typically black. Bumpers are flat black? Probably just cheap black primer with no topcoat? At least that's what bumpers look like on my old R models. But you really didn't give us any information on what you're working on. You could be working on some modern plastic PoS where everything's the same color.

It's a job, yea, but my dad and I did ours a few years ago, snapped through between spring and the tower. New sucker weighs about 300 lbs! But you don't need any air guns for it. You need a torch for disassembly and a monster breaker bar or ratchet with a 10 ft cheater pipe and somewhere to sit on the floor where you can work the ratchet for reassembly. Ideally with something to put your feet against for traction. Need 2 people, one to work the ratchet and the other to hold the ratchet on the ubolt nut. When one person is worn out, switch places!

I have a 1980 dm686 that has a 1976 motor in it that was pieced together from misc. Other engines. Long story short, it had the wrong timing cover. Didn't sit well in the front engine mount. Don't assume the engine has never been out or had parts replaced with other parts laying around. There should be a rubber bushing in the front engine mount. Replace it, could be worn and sliding the engine backwards. Engine blocks are pretty much the same on **685 and **686 trucks, just peripheral changes for different HP ratings.

Yea. That truck should not have that load behind it. A 3/4 ton truck is good for 10k on a rear hitch, and roughly 14k on a gooseneck. Glad the hitch failed in the driveway. My cousin loaded up about 17k on one of his trailers, towed by his 2004? GMC 2500, got halfway out of the storage yard and it ripped the hitch off the frame, bent the lower frame flange pretty good. Sometimes you just gotta let stupid be stupid and stand back....

That's neat! Interesting that the frame goes up at the front axle!

Just watched the full clip, worth every minute of silence! Glad to see there's a few good representatives out there!

Location?