Full Floater

Back up and running 100% Thanks for the support fellas.

Im not actually sure

Any tips to placing the fire ring in the new head gasket? Been a while, can't for the life of me remember using any sealant to hold the fire ring in place or anything. Thought I'd better ask. Here is a pic if the peened seats on the donor head

Split the screen??? Im quite the slow poke when it comes to technology.

I keep getting an error code 200 when trying to upload a pic today, but on my parts head that is going on, the exhaust valve seats have some peening around them. Was this factory? I haven't noticed before, but also never paid much attention. Haven't pulled the bad head yet to look at that one. I know this parts head has been off before years ago for an inframe, so maybe something was done to the seats or someone peened them to prevent them from falling out. I will continue to try to upload the pic until it lets me

Thanks fellas!

Needing to do a quick and dirty front head swap on a 237 for someone here quick. It has a loose valve seat on cyl 3. I have a couple parts engines. Are the front and rear heads interchangeable? Just curious so I can use whatever appears best after pulling them. No time for sending it away for any machine work. I guess there's nothing much that can be done with the existing seats in the donor head to help prevent them dropping, is there?

Excellent heads up on the cracking heads. Thank you.

Any chance that it's sucking air into the fuel system, or fuel restriction?

Excellent. That makes the project more realistic, as I'm sure the bolts are getting hard to source also, AND likely quite pricey!

What are the thoughts on re-using the heads bolts on these?

Me too. I understand that they were not the BEST platform out there, but if we have some good running ones, i'd like to keep them that way and use them within their limitations, reliably....for as long as we can

I believe those are E9 kits. Seems like a good price however, for an E9

Thank you! Is that the proper "fix" for them?

Wow, that's good information. Thank you.

I have a previously good running 866, that has dropped a valve seat. No engine damage. I realize that most parts are near obsolete for these now, but if there are any lingering upper gasket sets out there somewhere that can be had, I will give this particular engine another chance before it's pulled and parted out. Any current leads on 866 head and manifold gasket sets?

Oh that's interesting! Thanks!

Does anyone have a source for the apparent NLA/Discontinued Webb brake drum part# 65511? original Mack # 17QJ19302P5

Thank you gents

What kind of fuel supply pressure (from the lift pump, to the injection pump) should I be seeing with an Ambac pump E6? Are we in the 10-20psi supply pressure range? Thanks

Totally. I'm pretty sure it was me that was not accurate enough with it

Well I got it to work. Pulse adapter on cyl# 1 injection line and timing light set at 0 degrees, will give a pulse illumination at the crank dampener at the current injection timing. I was illuminating 21-22ish degrees upon initial check. This engine is a 26 degree engine. (this was after spill timing as close as I could, but I felt that it was a little retarded due do some blue exhaust haze at idle and most notable when cold) Shut it off and moved the pump flange counter clockwise a couple times till I got it smack on 26 degrees. No more blue haze. So either I didn't spill time it correctly or the spill timing is not quite as accurate as it could/should be. But Im happy to be able to check and adjust timing, without removing an injection line/delivery valve, as this way is just less invasive and quicker.

Thanks. Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing. I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results.

In search of a better way to set injection timing. I'm working on 2, 237's. Both with Ambac pumps. One with a fresh rebuild pump and another with a used pump swapped from another engine. Both engine data plates read 26 degrees at port closing. I have spilled timed both of them, to as close to 26 degrees as I could manage. Both engines are running good and sounding good. However, both engines smoke quite a bit of blue (unburnt fuel) at an idle, especially when cold. They clear up once i've got my foot into it under load. The injectors are also fresh rebuilds so it's unlikely that the spray pattern is poor. And neither engine uses much oil or has much blow by. So...I figure my spill timing is out a couple degrees, probably retarded. instead of pulling the delivery valves a few more times and messing around rotating the engine with the hard to reach crank pulley on the Western model R's; I would like to try the pulse type/clamp on timing adapter with a strobe light. I have a Snap-on and use it on other model engines, no problem. I haven't tried it yet on the Macks. If I clamp this to #1 injector tube, and read the mark on the crank when illuminated by the probe, should I expect to see the actual injection timing illuminated at an idle speed, or at a certain RPM? I know some engines with an advance mechanism in the pump (like some of the Roosa Master style Stanadyne pumps) require the engine to be at 2000rpm to accurately set timing.

Interesting, thanks. Never heard the theory before on the overspeed/dynatard contributions to their failures. I've never exceeded the 2100 recommended max speed, are rarely reach that, perhaps thats why I have never had one fail. Do the jabobs brakes, have the same effect on them as the dynatards? I have 3 with Jacobs on them